WayneBrown
03-14-2006, 10:29 AM
If you haven't seen one of these at the field or Your LHS, You might want to look into it just for giggles and grins.
I saw one at the field, and asked to try it out and was duly impressed!
Of course the following weekend I had one, picked up at The Hobby Connection in Easley, SC. about $90 out-the-door.
Servos are all my post crash rebuilts from my T Rex, with an AXI 2212-23 off a foamie, CC 25 ESC and my TP 2100 3S1P packs from the T Rex also..
Assembly is less than one hour. Everything you need is in the kit except glue to mount the firewall of your choice, The kit comes with two; One for inrunner/ stick mount motors, and the Other is for the outrunners with the built-in radial mount. It even comes with a Fiber-Plastic stick mount so you don't have to screw around with wood.
The tail feathers are a little different from the norm in the Ultra Stick series, on this model you can remove the Vertical Stab and the Horizontal stab and use the original box for transport/storage. Two small studs embedded in the Vertical stab pass through the bottom of the fuse, through the Horizontal stab, and secure with two nylock nuts and washers.
You can assemble the model with the quad flap/ aileron option, mounts are already in the wing, and the two ailerons have a divider where you may cut the strip in two sections, but you will need two 12" extensions for this.
I opted for the easy way, two aileron servos, without flaps And used flaperons in the radio instead.
At the field assembly is quick, four screws total. Two for the wing, two for the tail group, drop in a battery and secure the hatch with the magnetic hatch cover.
Aim the little plank into the wind and ease on the throttle, And it will rise off the ground about 1/2 power and climb out normally. Using the reccomended rates is a bit slow and docile, but crank 'em to the max and it wakes up considerably.
With more elevator area it could be fully 3D, agile enough for anything, but that is more work. Out of the box it's a decent little park flier that will knife edge forever, track straight through loops and lands well with just a little power on for safety. Snaprolls are QUICK to the right, and a little laid back to the left under power, Torque really affects this model.
I've flown it with an 11x4.7 APC and a 10x4.7 APC e Prop, and the 10x4.7 prop has good power and speed, 20+ minute flights, and nothing gets hot, Just a little above ambient temperature. The 11x4.7 does heat things up, The battery will average 110 F, and the ESC will be about 125 F unless you don't have it in the airstream path inside the fuselage, then it can/will get hot enough to melt the shrink wrap. The motor will only get Slightly warm with the 11x4.7
The only weak point I've found is the lite ply landing gear mount in the fuselage, it could be made a little stronger, but then again there is something to be said for a sacrificial breakage point that is easy to repair.
One landing without power and you will find that on flare the nose will drop, and you will do a three point landing (prop, two wheels) and the gear mount will snap off. A quick repair with Medium CA and it's stronger than original, and You will learn to keep just a tick of power on until its on the mains..
I saw one at the field, and asked to try it out and was duly impressed!
Of course the following weekend I had one, picked up at The Hobby Connection in Easley, SC. about $90 out-the-door.
Servos are all my post crash rebuilts from my T Rex, with an AXI 2212-23 off a foamie, CC 25 ESC and my TP 2100 3S1P packs from the T Rex also..
Assembly is less than one hour. Everything you need is in the kit except glue to mount the firewall of your choice, The kit comes with two; One for inrunner/ stick mount motors, and the Other is for the outrunners with the built-in radial mount. It even comes with a Fiber-Plastic stick mount so you don't have to screw around with wood.
The tail feathers are a little different from the norm in the Ultra Stick series, on this model you can remove the Vertical Stab and the Horizontal stab and use the original box for transport/storage. Two small studs embedded in the Vertical stab pass through the bottom of the fuse, through the Horizontal stab, and secure with two nylock nuts and washers.
You can assemble the model with the quad flap/ aileron option, mounts are already in the wing, and the two ailerons have a divider where you may cut the strip in two sections, but you will need two 12" extensions for this.
I opted for the easy way, two aileron servos, without flaps And used flaperons in the radio instead.
At the field assembly is quick, four screws total. Two for the wing, two for the tail group, drop in a battery and secure the hatch with the magnetic hatch cover.
Aim the little plank into the wind and ease on the throttle, And it will rise off the ground about 1/2 power and climb out normally. Using the reccomended rates is a bit slow and docile, but crank 'em to the max and it wakes up considerably.
With more elevator area it could be fully 3D, agile enough for anything, but that is more work. Out of the box it's a decent little park flier that will knife edge forever, track straight through loops and lands well with just a little power on for safety. Snaprolls are QUICK to the right, and a little laid back to the left under power, Torque really affects this model.
I've flown it with an 11x4.7 APC and a 10x4.7 APC e Prop, and the 10x4.7 prop has good power and speed, 20+ minute flights, and nothing gets hot, Just a little above ambient temperature. The 11x4.7 does heat things up, The battery will average 110 F, and the ESC will be about 125 F unless you don't have it in the airstream path inside the fuselage, then it can/will get hot enough to melt the shrink wrap. The motor will only get Slightly warm with the 11x4.7
The only weak point I've found is the lite ply landing gear mount in the fuselage, it could be made a little stronger, but then again there is something to be said for a sacrificial breakage point that is easy to repair.
One landing without power and you will find that on flare the nose will drop, and you will do a three point landing (prop, two wheels) and the gear mount will snap off. A quick repair with Medium CA and it's stronger than original, and You will learn to keep just a tick of power on until its on the mains..