Beginner set-up questions - I bought this book that....

[Espeefan]

I picked up a book called 'The Basic of Radio Control Helicopters' from a local hobby shop on Saturday. I was looking for some beginner's set-up tips on helis and the book has proven to have some excellent info in it, but there is one thing that I wonder about. The author suggests setting up the collective pitch for beginners on a heli to 5 degrees positive max and 0 degrees min. for hovering. Now, from what I've read on various internet websites, I often see the suggestion for 5 degrees of positive pitch at half throttle and a couple degrees negitive for below half stick. What should it be?

Another question I have, is the book also suggests mounting the push rods as close to the center of the servo horns for reduced throw and stick sensitivity. I can understand the theory behind that as well, but I think the book might be tailored more toward a time when simulators didn't exsist. Besides that, a computer radio will allow me to do the same with an expo function, correct?

So, I have to ask - if one can get a good handle on hovering a heli with Real Flight G3 using a 3D machine in normal or hovering mode, would it be okay to set up an RC heli slightly more aggressive with the push rods and collective pitch ranges then what my new book suggests? Maybe it comes down to how realistic is G3? I've been told that G3 is actually a little more sensitive then flying the real thing. What do you guys think?

Oh, and one more set-up question - the book also mentions tiliting the swashplate slightly to the right (at neutral stick for clockwise blade rotation) by adjusting the push rod about one turn longer to counter the torque. Pretty cool. Do any of you guys do this?

[BarracudaHockey]

The total pitch range will determine how sensitive your stick is.

That being said I set up most simulator beginners at -2 5 at hover (1/2 or 3/4 stick is up to you but you might as well start at 3/4)
and 9 at the top. With enough sim time you shouldn't be dropping the stick all the way in a panic and chopping off the tail boom and some negative will help get you back down if the wind is blowing.

For no sim beginners 0, 5 and 9 bottom, hover, top. With this setup you can chop the stick and probably aren't going to hurt the heli but getting it down is more of a chore.

The book is dated, use either dual rates or expo and fly it with training gear a few times to get the feel.

G3 is both easier and harder to fly than the real thing. Obviously its easier due to the pucker factor. Its harder because your field of vision and the visual cues you get in real life make flying the real thing easier. The sim can be more sensitive but that can be tamed down a bit in the settings if you wish.


As for your last question you aren't compensating for torque, the tail rotor is. What you are compensating for is the translating tendency, that is the tail rotor pushing the heli sideways while its doing its job. I don't know about other people but I just use a couple clicks of trim.

[Espeefan]

Thanks for fast reply Andy! And for setting me straight on the last question. I should have re-read the paragraph in the book regarding the swashplate before typing 'torque' - the book was right, I was just not thinking/remembering.

So, are there any other books you might suggest I buy? Something a little newer?

Keep the comments coming guys. I appreciate the wealth of knowledge here. :mrgreen:

[woodturner]

Espeefan I had a very similar beginners pitch question. Would 2 degrees negative at bottom stick & 9 degrees at 100% positive be a good beginner’s setup or should I get use to setup more symmetrical?

Also will the type of chopper be a factor? I have TREX and am finishing a 50 size Raptor.. Appreciate any thoughts, comments.. Thanks HeliFreak!!

[BarracudaHockey]

Symetrical setup is where you are going to end up at but it makes the collective very sensitive. Even now, in normal mode I only run about -4 or -5 to make lower rpm hovering look better. As you progress add more negative till you get -4 or 5 then start using idle up with a symetrical curve.

The rex and the raptor fly in a similar fashon but the rex is going to be more sensitive to control inputs and more twitchy, the Raptor will be alot more stable.

If you are building a Raptor be sure to check http://www.raptortechnique.com

[Espeefan]

Good info! On the thought of symmetrical pitch curves, I am getting so used to the sensitivity on Realflight G3, flying 3D helis, I was wondering about trying a symmetrical pitch curve too. It's as though I've gotten used to the pitch curve and the ways it can bail me out of trouble sometimes on the sim when practicing forward/backward flight (dual rates on).

Never the less, I'll probably take it in small steps and not go symmetrical for the first handful of flights. When I progress into forward/backward flight on an actual model, would that be a good time to set up for a fully symmertical pitch curve?

[BarracudaHockey]

If you're comfortable with it on the sim, they by all means its the way to go. But sim and real life are two different things so don't get too froggy.

[DavidH]

From my experience at helping beginners. I would suggest to not go -9 to+9 in all curves when first starting. Most of the beginners first reaction when they get into trouble is to pull the collective/throttle stick all the way to bottom quickly. With that much negative pitch it will slam the heli into the ground and boom strike even from about 6 inches of hovering height. Till you get comfortable I would suggest having no more than -2 degs at full bottom stick. You can still do the symetrical setup originally and have 0 degs at mid stick. Just dial the negative part of the curve electronically till it is about -2 or -1. That is how I setup helis for beginners for there first gallon or so. Or till they get comfortable with the real heli.

One thing you have to remember about the real heli over the simulator. There is no space bar to hit to have the heli instantly and no cost rebuild itself from a crash.

David

[woodturner]

Thanks all.. I like sound of a +9 / -2 setup to begin at the norm position. Can set Idle 1 & 2 for the full bling effect so those who have the skilled fingers can show me what the heli is capable of..

Happy flyin' all..

[DavidH]

Yes you can have -9 to +9 in the idle ups.

Here is an example. Lets say you have 0 pitch at mid stick and -9 to +9. And the pitch curve on a 5 point curve looks like this. 0, 25, 50, 75, 100. Zero would be at midstick position and 50% setting.
That would be your idle up curves.

In Normal mode you might need the pitch curve to look like this to acomplish the -2 to + 9 range. 20, 40, 60, 80, 100.

The above are just examples. I have done similar setups for beginners as above.


David

[WayneBrown]

Thats the way I setup newbies too, and it makes it easier to phone call the required changes to go to the full -9 +9 in normal later...

[woodturner]

O.k. Wayne, I GET it :lol: thanks!

[Espeefan]

Thanks sharing guys. That sounds like a nice set-up. I may have to give that a shot when I get to flying.