View Full Version : X-Cell Fury - Basic, Expert, Extreme differences?
Espeefan
04-22-2006, 02:18 AM
Could someone please tell me what makes the X-Cell Fury a Basic, Expert, or Extreme? I can't seem to find a breakdown on the features and what sets them apart from one another. Are these differences the same for the .50 Fury too?
Where can I find a Fury 50? MA lists them on their website, but all the usual online dealers don't even mention a Fury 50. Are they basically the same as a 60 sized heli but with a .50 motor?
I'm just wondering, as I wouldn't mind buying a 50 sized heli for starting out, but I don't see them mentioned much. Were they not so popular?
r2160
04-22-2006, 05:32 AM
Here are the basics of the kits
fury basic: aluminium boom, stepped feathering spindle, plastic head block, plastic tail gearbox, non driven tail and roller bearing for auto hub
fury expert: carbon boom, stepped feather spindle, metal head block, plastic tail gearbox, good auto hub with sprag bearing and driven tail.
fury extreme: hi modulus carbon boom, 8mm feathering spindle all the way, metal head block, bigger thrust bearings in rotor head, metal tail box, good auto hub with sprag bearing and driven tail, also with gearing for 80/90.
I used to have a fury basic 50 that I put a 60 into, with a carbon boom. popped it on a governor and it was a bundle of fun using 600mm blades.
Hope this helps
Glenn
tnreefguy
04-22-2006, 10:42 AM
You forgot some stuff on the extreme. It has also
A different mainshaft
Third bearing block on the mainshaft
33" tailboom
"clipped" style feathering spindle
one piece transmision block upgrade
Espeefan
04-22-2006, 11:42 AM
Thanks guys. That definitely helps. So I take it a Basic could eventually be upgraded to an Expert with the right parts, correct?
Also, what would be the differences between the 50 and 60 Fury? I appreciate the replys.
tnreefguy
04-22-2006, 12:09 PM
Engine and airframe on the 50 and 60
One thing to remember you could find a nice used fury expert (60 size) for sale for not much money on ebay or here. When you are ready to move up to a 90 the extreme or stratus is the way to go. but when you are ready for that move sell your 60 because the cost involved with the upgrades can match or exceed what a brand new kit would be. Just like anything your budget will dictate what you can buy. Set a majority of that in your radio, electronics, and setup thats what makes them fly good.
Espeefan
04-22-2006, 12:41 PM
Thanks tnreefguy. See, I've been looking at buying my first heli, and I thought it might be nice to go with a 50 sized machine, but I see good deals every now and then, like you mention.
I've already got all the radio gear and I have an O.S. Hyper 50. I've been checking out all the other 50 machines, and quite a few seem to have their little weakness, and it's not that you can't solve them with some aftermarket parts or upgrades, but I never hear anything bad about the X-Cells. But, if I happen upon a good deal, and it's a 60 Fury, then I might just jump at it. I was going to wait for X-Cell's MXR500, but the wait is killing me! I've logged a lot of time on my simulator want to fly the real deal now! :mrgreen:
tnreefguy
04-22-2006, 06:18 PM
I here ya. Just take it easy on your first machine. There is nothing worse than a crash for being in to great a hurry. May I ask what type of radio gear did you puchase?
Espeefan
04-23-2006, 12:13 AM
I'm not in a rush to crash, just really excited to get a heli! I know the set-up, build time, and my flying skills won't be rushed. The weather here is finally get nice out and I'm getting the itch to see if the simulator is a realistic representation. My radio gear consists of a Futaba 9CHPS, with S9252 servos, 1500mAh reciever, and a Futaba GY611 gyro. I will probably pick up a GV-1 governor too. I can always use the radio gear on future helis. :mrgreen:
tnreefguy
04-23-2006, 12:24 AM
Sounds like a good choice. Thats the same setup less the GV1 on my fury extreme. The 9252's are the workhorse servo that most people use and the 9c is a user friendly radio that is easy to program. The 611 gyro is awsome to. The only thing I dont understand is the 1500 reciever. Is that the battery you bought or reciever model #? If its the battery I would look for something with more capacity. It is very low and those digital servos will eat it for lunch. Look at some of the high capacity li-ion systems or NiMh cells.
Espeefan
04-23-2006, 12:38 AM
Oops, sorry. I ment to type 1500mAh reciever battery pack. The reciever is an R149DP. I thought 1500mAh packs were about average for heli use..? I know digital servos draw more. If I go with a better rx pack, then I would probably need a charger too?
Actually, I have two 1500mAh rx packs. I bought an extra, plus I have one of those nifty battery monitors and Futaba's BR 2000 battery checker. Pretty cool piece of hardware! I could probably get by with changing out the packs for the time being.
Could you recommend a battery pack and charger combo? How much capacity do I need?
tnreefguy
04-23-2006, 11:57 AM
The BR-2000 is an awsome voltage checker/discharger. The common rule of thumb on checking your batts is at a 1 amp load. With the 2000 that is easy. Just hook it up to your batt and hold the button down for like 2 or 3 seconds that puts it in discharge mode and tells your batt voltage at a one amp load. As far as the batteries go check this link
http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=184
This is the same pack that I was running on my Fury extreme. I was getting about 5-6 flight per charge. As far as a charger goes look at the Triton or ICE charger. For not much money both of them will charge almost any type of battery chemistry. Look at some of the battery forums here on the Freak for more detailed info on some of the batterys and performance data.
Espeefan
04-23-2006, 01:10 PM
Thanks for the link! You know, I was thinking....I should be able to build my own battery pack for the reciever too, as long as I can find the Futaba connectors. I've built packs for my monster trucks before using 1.2 volt NiMH 'sub C' cells. I could buy some 3300mAh cells and put a 4.8 volt pack together myself, and I've already got a charger for them.
Is the extra weight of a sub C sized cell rx pack a problem for helis? It looks like the packs in the link you provided are sub C sized cells too.
tnreefguy
04-23-2006, 01:15 PM
Actually the cell is close to the same weight as a NiCad cell with less capacity. Also check out this link. This is the li-ion system I am running now with a duralite regulator. Getting like 15 flights now with no issues.
http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/LiIonBatteries.htm##4
Nice packs but they do not have the balance circuit like the duralites.
Espeefan
04-23-2006, 02:09 PM
Holy smokes! 15 flights. Wow. I think I will just try my hand at building a rx pack using some 3300mAh cells if I need the capacity. I've got most of the things I need to support them anyway.
Okay, so I have to ask - should I look at getting a Fury 50 or 60 Expert? The prices aren't really that different. I heard they use a lot of the same parts, so the cost of repairs is not really any different either, is it? Besides the 50 model maybe being safer because it's slightly smaller, is there any reason I would go with one or the other? What kind of blades for a beginner, and how much do they cost for the 50 and 60 models?
tnreefguy
04-23-2006, 08:55 PM
I have been running 690s on both 60's and 90's with no problems that i can tell. I really dont know much about the 50s since I have never owned one, but in my opinion the MA birds are the way to go.
Seeker
04-24-2006, 02:40 PM
The BR-2000 is an awsome voltage checker/discharger. The common rule of thumb on checking your batts is at a 1 amp load. With the 2000 that is easy. Just hook it up to your batt and hold the button down for like 2 or 3 seconds that puts it in discharge mode and tells your batt voltage at a one amp load.
I think for the BR-2000 you just push the button and it defaults to an amp load for battery testing. When you hold the button down for 2-3 seconds, it starts a "discharge cycle" at the rate which the dial is turned to (1-3 amps).
That's the way I read the manual but I could be wrong.
Seeker
04-24-2006, 02:42 PM
Big difference in fuel consumption between the two I would think. Also, think about replacement parts cost differences if you're just beginning like me.
:D
Espeefan
04-25-2006, 12:51 AM
Yeah, I love the MA helis too. Great looking designs, made in the USA, and good parts support. They're more capable then I am out of the box, I'm sure, so I wonder if it's a bit extreme to start out with one. Granted they can probably be set up nice and tame, so maybe it's fine to learn on a heli can grow with?
On the other hand, there's something to be said for having a cheap beater heli too!