Landing gear mod...

[heliboy1023]

As many of you know, the stock landing gear, is well, very weak. The slightest imperfection in your landing can break them where the rod is attached to the skid. However, what if you don't want to upgrade to the superlanding gear, adding weight, and stressing the motor and 4-1. Well I got the answer.

First, apply a few drops of CA around the rod where it is attached to the skid. This will make the area less brittle.

Once you do that, it will be time to break out the sand paper. Sand this area with a mild grit paper, I am using 150c.

Once you get the area sanded down, it is time to get a mixture of JB weld.
Mix it up with 2 part hardener, and 1 part metal. I like this ratio due to the quick drying time, and it also seems to look nicest when finished. You can add a little more metal, but I have found it not to be needed.

Apply your mixture with a nice medium thickness even coat all around the base of the rod.
Once it is dried, I like to take a black sharpie, and make it look as if nothing had been done.

Also, please allow 24 hours worth of drying time before you fly to allow it all to set properly.

[WayneBrown]

Or you could use JB Kwik, the 30 minute version.

[knockers]

Get you a tube of Shoo Goo. Its glue for tennis shoes. This stuff works great on all the plastic parts. Just glue together and let it set for 24 hours. Has to be 24 hours before it's ready to fly. Works great.

[Gary JP4]

Good one. I have done similar repairs. JB weld, JB weld with thread or wire wrapped around break point, same thing with CA instead of JB Weld. Also JB weld over training gear mount as a support/reinforcement. Works well looks rough. I have also repaired tail motor housing, boom, and stock tail vertical post that way until I got spare parts.

I replaced the gear with super landing gear skids and they are great. http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=30_65&products_id=846. Yeah, they are a little heavier but they are worth it. I have only broken the clamp for the horizontal fin since. There is one model for Blade CP / Walkera DF4 and one for Honey Bee CP2. Also has cool antenna straw in the gear with a couple of location options. With aluminum skids, T-Rex like gear, antenna mount and straw, and @ $12 for the whole kit its a winner.

[rcblades]

I have crashed my blade cp more times than I can count. I always seem to have the worse damage when I have glued/jb weld the landing gear togather. Recently I purchased a completly (stock) new landing gear and am having less problems/damage when I crash. I just snap it back into place. My thoughts are that by having the landindg gear stock it allows the skids to come apart easier and cause less damage. Some of the energy in the crash is lost when the gear comes apart.

Any thoughts on this?

[zooland1]

I put the super gear on after about two weeks. Flies fine. Haven't broken them yet after five months. I am using 3s lipos with 8t pinion and DD tail, so no stress on the motor period.

[Rick Rotorhead]

I find most of the impact forces go to the rear U/C strut sockets on the main chassis. They snap off. I CA'd them back on and JB Welded a big fillet around this area and its very tough now (protect the main gear wheel with tape while doing this or the teeth will get ruined). Only problem - the two rear servo cases practically butt upto this region so they are effectively JB Welded too. Still, they wern't vibration damped as stock, so I guess it don't matter too much - see my gallery for the end result. I'm using training gear which soaks up some impact energy, but don't fix it too tightly to the skids. BTW I once had the U/C literally fall to bits as I took off - looked really funny with the bottom of the heli missing and just dangling by the batt wires, imbalance brought her down rapidly, but no damage :) .

[Gary JP4]

The super gear mentioned above also comes with support to the tail boom and cool horizontal and vertical fins, kind of like the T-Rex. This makes the boom stronger and adds rigidity to the whole bird.

I don't use the vertical fin because I have the GWS tail mod with motor housing which includes its own vertical fin.

With gear like a T-Rex and @ $12, I have to give this a best mod ratting. The only down side is the boom clamp for the horizontal fin and where the brace wires attach brakes. Since I don't use the vertical fin I use its clamp when it brakes. I have to drill the horizontal holes for the brace wires to mount. I have broken these about 6 times. Have also glued with some success. Bought one replacement for fin and clamp. The rest is super tough. Way better than stock gear. The picture is a DF4 but the gear looks the same.

[suwatp]

I have sample photos.. how it look after install new skid..
more information please go to this page..

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5321343

i can assist you to install too.. no cost

[Penrod]

How do you attach the antenna, specifically, what do you do with the rest of it that won't fit into the tube? Wrap it around the frame like the original?? :dontknow