Cypher 3D - Love this Heli!

[Vechlor]

Glad to hear it Kevin! To put your mind at ease, add a drop of thick ca glue on the rod threads before twisting the ball links on. It's thread lock for plastic :thumbup:

The TritonEQ looks like a good charger for up to 6s 5000mA lipo. It might work with a 6s splitter to charge two packs at once, but I'm not 100% sure. Maybe others have done it with this charger?

I looked at the Polycharge4 for charging 4x lipos, but it doesn't balance. It won't give a full 4.20v charge, something like 4.10v. It charges based on a mAh setting and guesses the cell count and voltage needed.
If the lipos are balanced to begin with, I would hate to see them unbalanced with this charger. Maybe charge them up, then balance them off with the triton? Kindof a pain, better to buy a few lipos and charge them up the night before you go out, then use the 6s splitter for doing two at a time in about 35-45min.

[kevinbattista]

Glad to hear it Kevin! To put your mind at ease, add a drop of thick ca glue on the rod threads before twisting the ball links on. It's thread lock for plastic :thumbup:

The TritonEQ looks like a good charger for up to 6s 5000mA lipo. It might work with a 6s splitter to charge two packs at once, but I'm not 100% sure. Maybe others have done it with this charger?

I looked at the Polycharge4 for charging 4x lipos, but it doesn't balance. It won't give a full 4.20v charge, something like 4.10v. It charges based on a mAh setting and guesses the cell count and voltage needed.
If the lipos are balanced to begin with, I would hate to see them unbalanced with this charger. Maybe charge them up, then balance them off with the triton? Kindof a pain, better to buy a few lipos and charge them up the night before you go out, then use the 6s splitter for doing two at a time in about 35-45min.


ok, i dont have thick "ca" but i have ca thread lock and i also have a thick gel super glue .. but if i glue it how will i adjust it if it's not the right length ?? can i fine tune it with my Futaba Tx? not only that but i already screwed the rods in... will the thin thread lock seap in if i add a few drops to the already assembled rod and end? what i may do is set it and then mark the rod , take apart, glue , re-assemble and tighten to the marks... ?
as far as the chargers go.. my plan is to get the triton ( for the balancing and read out factor) and get the 5 batt charger .. like you said " charge em up and balance off with the triton"i believe i'll only be using 3s 20-25mah batts.... first i'm gonna get the triton this weekend and i'll work on a second charger later.. i only have one batt at the moment anyway:thumbdown:

[Vechlor]

The tail rod on mine is about 1' 1/2" long from tip to tip, it can be any length. If your links are on tight and won't pull off, I wouldn't worry about it.

You can adjust the tail by loosening the two screws on the tail servo mount to slide the mount forward or back. This is how we setup the tail mechanically before messing with fine tuning in the radio.

[kevinbattista]

The tail rod on mine is about 1' 1/2" long from tip to tip, it can be any length. If your links are on tight and won't pull off, I wouldn't worry about it.

You can adjust the tail by loosening the two screws on the tail servo mount to slide the mount forward or back. This is how we setup the tail mechanically before messing with fine tuning in the radio.


no.. i'm talkin linkage for servo to swash.. not tail.. the blade linkage rods are way off in size and i used a rod but had to cut it down- cutting sown some of the threads leaving less for the ends to grab.. so instead of having say 1/8 thread to grab now im down to 1/16..
now if i add glue and my 3 rods are not the same length how will i make the proper adjustments?
i try'd spinnin up the CYPHER this mornin... the swash looks real level and even to me but i dont have my GYRO set up the right way.. not to sure what i'm doin so gonna wait for MIKE's help this weekend. i'm also gonna pick up some linkage for the T~REX.. maybe the sizes will be more close to what i need.
i'll tell ya though... just spinnin up the CYPHER on the ground= SMOOTH !
so much better then my Blade cpp2...
i have a little vibration... the blades ARE ballanced and the cog is set :thumbup: .. but i can see the tracking is off.. again, just gonna wait for this weekend ( Mike, charge some batteries:YeaBaby: )



OH, what do you meen your tail rod is
1 1/2 long?? your tail servo is that close to your tail stab fin? i have my servo mounted close to the body, my rod is maybe 3/4 the length of the boom. oh , or do you meen 12 1/2 inchs ( 1 foot and 1/2 inch) ? makes more sence

[maddog57]

Hey Kevin, I highly recommend going with one charger/balancer instead of using two as you mentioned. I really think you'll be sorry once you start using it, because of the inconvenience. And there probably won't be a big price difference, getting one that'll do the job of the two. Just my opinion.

Also, not too long ago I posted link lengths of all the links on my Cypher to use as a starting point. thought they may help you but I can't seem to find them. I know they're here somewhere!!

Chris :thumbup:

[Vechlor]

The info exists in this thread, just have to search for it ;)
Farrell did a good job finding the lengths here (http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=1453837&postcount=505).
I can't find your post Chris, it's here somewhere..

The linkage rods are 1.2mm dia. If you had some metric dies, you can thread them yourself, but kind of a pain vs. ordering a set from Heliproz.

Don't glue them yet, setup the swash until everything looks level and centered. The links have a recessed edge on one side, this side should be facing the ball.

I meant 1ft 1/2in for the tail rod.

[maddog57]

I also took some link measurements from one of my Cyphers. Remember these are only starting points.
10.85mm - front 2 servos to swash
9.75mm - rear servo to swash
33.81mm - swash to flybar mixing arms
18.17mm - mixing block arms to flybar control arms
.495 - flybar mixing arms to main blade grips
These lengths were measured from bottom to bottom of the link holes, not center to center.
Chris :thumbup:

Knew these were here , just took a bit to find them.

Chris :thumbup:

[kevinbattista]

~Chris, if i used those measurements my swash would be burried in my frame.. im at 0 pitch @ 3/4 stick as it is now. and that's at 22-23mm . i was thinkin like 30mm bottom link hole to bottom link hole?? i figured 1" rods would work?? maybe i'm missin somethin here??:confused:
either way... it's supposed to be in the 60/70's tomorrow , and i needed a reason to take the bike out , so i'll head to my local and see if T~Rex linkage will work.. if not I guess i'll break down and order it:roll:

[kevinbattista]

The info exists in this thread, just have to search for it ;)
Farrell did a good job finding the lengths here (http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=1453837&postcount=505).
I can't find your post Chris, it's here somewhere..

The linkage rods are 1.2mm dia. If you had some metric dies, you can thread them yourself, but kind of a pain vs. ordering a set from Heliproz.

Don't glue them yet, setup the swash until everything looks level and centered. The links have a recessed edge on one side, this side should be facing the ball.

I meant 1ft 1/2in for the tail rod.


ahh yes, Farrells meassurements seem more correct to me ( no offence Chris ) they are very close to what i came up with.



"Hey guys,

When setting up your head adjust the links as needed so that:

-Servo arms are horizontal
-Swash plate is level
-Washout mixer arms are level
-Fly bar arms are level
-Main blades have zero degrees pitch

This should be done when both sticks are centered on your radio and with your pitch curve setup for zero degrees at mid stick.

The above will give you push rod lengths of:

-Blade grips to fly bar mixing arms = 18mm
-Fly bar mixing arms to swash plate = 40mm
-Fly bar arms to washout mixer arms = 24mm
-Swash plate to front-left and front-right servo arms = 33mm
-Swash plate to rear servo arm = 29mm

If you have any questions let me know.

-Farrell"

[maddog57]

Kevin I'm so sorry...Checked my measurements after reading your post and don't know how I did it, but am way off :arggg: After work I'll correct them.

Chris :roll:

[kevinbattista]

Kevin I'm so sorry...Checked my measurements after reading your post and don't know how I did it, but am way off :arggg: After work I'll correct them.

Chris :roll:


ya i read a couple posts after farrells post you agreed and said your meassurements were the same as his... figured you did some sort of a typo ;)

[maddog57]

OK Kevin here's the accurate measures;
2 front servos to swash=27.65mm
elev servo to swash=25.18
mixing block arms to flybar control arms=18.20mm
swash to flybar mixing arms=34.90mm
flybar mixing arms to main grips=12.50

Again... soooo sorry about my screw up. Also these measures are link bottom to link bottom, not center to center and only a starting point.

Chris :arggg:

[Vechlor]

I checked over Farrell's measurements, they are from center of ball links not to be confused with Chris's measurements.

Btw, Most hobby shops carry piano wire 1.2mm dia. Even cheaper way to go for making linkages and have spares. It's more work, but you get to keep the extra savings. That is, until your LHS has Cypher parts in stock. :thumbup:

[kevinbattista]

well the T REX linkage worked.. just had to cut it down a little. i think it's all set, everything is level and square when at mid stick. i even put up a grid backdrop.now i just gotta read up on how to set up my gyro.hopefully i got it right.i'll be seein Mike this weekend anyway, so he can fix it if i screwed it up;)
i also picked up a TRITON balancer and built a fire proof battery box ( picture in my album) :thumbup:so thats another thing i have to read up on..
once it's set up I GET TO FLY IT !:clappp
thanks for the help, i keep the measurements in my flight box :thumbup:

[y2kgtp]

Anyone have info on the revised version of this Heli? I hear it is coming in the near future....

[wa3itz]

What thread (DIE) do you use for your linkage?? 2/56?. Doc in PA.

[1157]

Well, I just did it. My Cypher is en route. I found one (NIB) on eBay for $75 + $18 shipping. They had 2 available. I should have grabbed both at that price. I'll have plenty of build questions, so stand by.

Stu

[irjamesm]

You can also watch the sales atHobby People. Around xmas they had them for $89.99.
I picked one up for spare parts.

[Vechlor]

Anyone have info on the revised version of this Heli? I hear it is coming in the near future....

It's been about a year since our last "source (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?p=1220424&highlight=upgrades#post1220424)" report. Chris posted links on the first page to some photos for a Pro / Plus version taken from one of the r/c expos.

https://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/uploads/DSCF0059.jpg
https://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/uploads/DSCF0060.jpg
https://www.sussex-model-centre.co.uk/uploads/DSCF0069.jpg

Kevin,
Check out Finless Bob's video on Futaba 401 setup (http://helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=41692), also good idea to read the manual a few times to remember the tech-talk. Most of the setup is done in a hover, Mike can help you there. Have fun and good luck! :)

Doc,
For English tap/die, closest would be #00-90, .0470in or Metric M1.2x0.25. TPI can be anywhere from 56-90, it seems to vary on some linkages.

1157,
Welcome to our Unimatrix, you are now part of our Cypher collective! http://learnphpbb.com/community/images/smilies/borg-drone.gif

[maddog57]

1157 welcome to our little corner of "the Freak", [very "punny" Vechlor]. Don't be shy with the questions, we're here to help. Can't get a better price than that.

y2kgtp...know something we don't? Think it was called Cypher Plus. I'd love to see a 500/550 Cypher!!

Chris :thumbup:

[kevinbattista]

WELCOME 1157 ! :clappp

I may now step down from my spot as newest member ;) , these guys are GREAT . any questions you may have they're on it :thumbup: and you"re gonna love the CYPHER . and at $75 ! you cant beat that.:banana. i payed 2x that:thumbdown:

~VECH, read the directions and watched vid.. think i got it. goin to the field sat with Mike so i'll have him double check. would HATE to crash if i missed somethin.

I'm like'n the FUTABA Tx :thumbup: been fly'n the Blade cpp2 with it.. what a difference ! cant wait to get the CYPHER out there.

[cmezip]

After seeing the comment of the deal on eBay I now have one on the way as well. Been missing a heli this size. My only complaint so far is the Align 550 got it's own forum before it even came out....... Think it's time this did as well.

[wa3itz]

I have a blade CP that has its own transmitter Cant do anything with it. Want to use my Futaba 9C. Any one have any advice on get the Blade setup with the Futaba. I have the channel and ready to go but HOW do you program it. Any advice is great. Thanks Doc

[kevinbattista]

I have a blade CP that has its own transmitter Cant do anything with it. Want to use my Futaba 9C. Any one have any advice on get the Blade setup with the Futaba. I have the channel and ready to go but HOW do you program it. Any advice is great. Thanks Doc



hey Doc, i'm running my Blade cpp2 with my FUTABA 7.. you have to lose the Rx the Blade came with and get a Futaba Rx , once it's all re wired, pick a spot for the Blade on the Tx ,then just link the Tx to Rx.. now i'm not sayin i know x~actly what i'm doin... Mike ( aka SLEDDOG7) did the programing on my Tx and i'm not sure if i had the right servos to the right channels , but now that it's done... WOW what a difference:thumbup: hope this helps

[wa3itz]

What did you do about the TWO speed controls. My Blade has a motor for the tail.and one for the main rotor. Was going to try the original receiver on CH-52. and just set the trans up on that freq. Doc