View Full Version : Head Button
drrm123
02-13-2009, 02:32 PM
Was putting head together and stripped the screw that hold head button on. Is there anyway to repair this or just buy a new head? $40 is not bad, i thought it would cost alot more or maybe i'll just wait till i crash it. :arggg: also put tank together before putting in frames.
Mercuriell
02-13-2009, 02:54 PM
It's a perennial problem as it often gets knocked out after a smackdown (and damages your grips to boot) - you can drill and retap to M4 or probably simpler is to clean up the threads and put a thin sliver of JB Weld on and then gently snug up the bolt - I personally gave up on head buttons long ago :)
kckoch
02-13-2009, 05:43 PM
I agree, leave it off. It will likely damage your grips if you ditch, as the arms don't clear the button.
Shockwave 3K
02-13-2009, 05:53 PM
I did the same thing. What i did was buy a Trex 600N head button and red locktited it and it stays on perfect.
cbdane
02-13-2009, 06:44 PM
I personally gave up on head buttons long ago :)
I've heard this a lot. A question, though. Can you still reach over and slow the head by putting pressure on the center of the yoke without the button there or do you just wait for it to slow down on its own? The reason I ask is that we have a club that flies planes and helis from the same runway and folks are a bit sensitive to how long someone ties up the runway after landing. For this reason, I use the head button on almost every landing.
lowflyer101
02-13-2009, 08:32 PM
:thumbup:It's a perennial problem as it often gets knocked out after a smackdown (and damages your grips to boot) - you can drill and retap to M4 or probably simpler is to clean up the threads and put a thin sliver of JB Weld on and then gently snug up the bolt - I personally gave up on head buttons long ago :)
, m4 kinda too big lot of work, i used only little bigger m4-40 . 10 , the same bolt use on my YS motor back plate , no drill or tap need.
LoveMyTrex
02-13-2009, 11:54 PM
I don't use headbuttons either, just hit TH and go full neg, this slows the blades enough that you can stop them by hand
if you leave the headbutton on you risk riping it out in a crash, and bending the blade grips along with it.
also my arms arn't long enough to reach the center of a 90 anyway.
Mercuriell
02-14-2009, 05:07 AM
:thumbup:
, m4 kinda too big lot of work, i used only little bigger m4-40 . 10 , the same bolt use on my YS motor back plate , no drill or tap need.
I agree but I've tried this in the past
I've heard this a lot. A question, though. Can you still reach over and slow the head by putting pressure on the center of the yoke without the button there or do you just wait for it to slow down on its own? The reason I ask is that we have a club that flies planes and helis from the same runway and folks are a bit sensitive to how long someone ties up the runway after landing. For this reason, I use the head button on almost every landing.
Yes you can slow the rotor head down without the head button esp if you wind on full negative collective as it spools down as LMT suggests - certainly on the T600s I got tired of the ball links on the main grips getting smashed every mishap :)
lowflyer101
02-14-2009, 11:03 AM
i used trex500 head button, matching color with 700 and give main grip their room too spin over :) , only have to drill the mount hole bigger for m3 or m4 crew. ooop , what i am talking about , i lot my head button week ago lol , sorry