Trex XL HDE Build Videos will be here!

[kgfly]

The flybar may tip in any direction... You can hold it level with your hand and move the pitch full in both directions right?

Right.


The flybar is on a seesaw and is always free to move no matter where the pitch is. If not then you have something wrong....
Bob

OK, it's free to move, so at least I've got that right :)

I also find that, with a Mode2 Tx, if I move the collective (rhs) control stick in a clockwise circle then the main shaft will start to rotate clockwise (no motor installed) and if I move it in a counter-clockwise direction the main shaft will rotate counter clockwise. Is this OK or a sign of too much friction in the head ? I have read of folks puting a drop of oil on the top of the swashplate to lubricate where the inner plastic plate moves on the metal collar. Is this a good idea ? (I guess by now you can tell I'm a detail-oriented kind-of-guy :wink: )

FYI - Double-bubble technique for ensuring the flybar is level
==========================================
Given that the dining room table is not level and that we want at least +/- 0.5deg accuracy, it seemed to me that just eyeballing if the flybar is level is not reliable. So I came up with the following (although this might be overkill)?:

Assumptions
--------------
1) For the flybar, "level" means at 90deg to the main shaft axis
2) Tail boom is also at 90deg to the main shaft axis (which is why the boom mount is a good place for gyros).

Setup
----------
a) Rest a bubble level in a fore/aft orientation on the top of the boom mount box (you know, the bad place to mount your gyro).
b) Use (thin) double-sided tape to place a bubble level along one of the flybar paddles

Usage
---------
Before making head or pitch adjustments ensure that the bubble positions on both levels match. It is not important if the bubbles are not dead-centre (ie the heli is not truly level) just that they are both in the same position.

Regards,
Kenneth

[zooland1]

OK, I will try to squeeze one out but it probably wont include servo install.....


Bob
Don't forget belt tension....please, please, please

[shauntot]

tnx bob, no hurry though. remember family comes first.

i have just one comment for Align, I thinkthis would go for all trex owners...I've just finished installing my servos and the links on them, and for fun, I just took the canopy and snapped it on. Who the hell in Align thinks they can get away with the canopy that narrow???! almost all the links on the CCPM version rub the bloody canopy!! I've already installed the balls on the inside as recommended by the manual, but they're still rubbing!!! is it just me??! :arggg:

[kgfly]

tnx bob, no hurry though. remember family comes first.

i have just one comment for Align, I think it would go to all trex owners...I've just finished installing my servos and the links on them, and for fun, I just took the canopy and snapped it on. Who the hell in Align thinks they can get away with the canopy that narrow???! almost all the link on the CCPM version rub the bloddy canopy!! I've already installed the balls on the inside as recommended by the manual, but they're still rubbing!!! is it just me??! :arggg:

I am building an HDE and I found the same thing. That is, the canopy presses against (at least) the vertical links from the collective control arm up to the swash plate.

[Finless]

No it is not just you... This is the problem with the CCPM version of the XL.
The easiest fix is to drill the holes for the canopy pins farther forward on the frame which will move the canopy up and forward a bit and they will clear. Another way but can cause a tiny bit of geometery problems is to flip the servos so the output shafts are at the bottom. I did one this way and it worked out fine.
One other way is to dump the push pull setup fromt he servos and only use the bottoms of the two bell cranks.
Even others have cut holes inthe canopy (yuck).

Bob

[shauntot]

Bob,

I hope someone in Align is reading this forum :) They have a nice reputation for listening to their customers anyway. I think I'll try your canopy-new-holes-in-the-frame method later, I don't wanna fumble around with all the servo links hehe

Btw, I've already finished my bird, had to take the leap of installing the tail end without the video..I just hope I did it right :roll:

Anyway, I'm now reviewing your CCPM videos and how to remove the interactions as I've just done reversing them for the right travel...wish me luck!!! :bomb:

shaun

[be3978]

Bob,
I am new and I have a TREX 450XL CCPM that came with 430L motor and BL-25G ESC.
Which video will help me get started.

Thanks.

-shim

[Bignose13]

Prynhawn da BOB

Just a big thanks.
I dont have an HDE But an ARK 400 nearly the same thing i think
I was looking at the vids and it helped me a lot to set up and fly my bird and would not have had her set up correctly with out your help.
Cheers Mate
By the way it means "Good afternoon" in welsh.
Bignose 13 in sunny Pontypridd :glasses2: (NOT).

[Finless]

Bob,
I am new and I have a TREX 450XL CCPM that came with 430L motor and BL-25G ESC.
Which video will help me get started.

Thanks.

-shim

Use my HDE build videos for some of it (frames, etc) then use my other vides which are more realted to the SE but the CCPM setup should help.

Bob

[kgfly]

Hi Bob,

Well I dived in and went ahead with the HDE tail assembly. With the experience of the rest of the build under my belt and some careful study of the diagrams, it proved quite straight forward (at least I think so, unless I missed something subtle).

I found I had to reduce the rudder servo travel to about +/- 35% to prevent the tail pitch slider hitting the stops. That means there's only maybe +/-5deg of pitch range in the tail rotor, is that OK ?

I was thinking of drilling a new hole in the servo arm closer to the centre and then increase the range as my gut feel is that reducing the mechanical throw and using more servo range up ould a be better solution. It won't give more tail pitch but I think more precise control. Is that a valid assumption and a reasonable way to setup the rudder servo ?

One final question. I have an MKS GY191 gyro which seems to be working fine. Only thing is I cannot tell the difference between Rate and HH modes (no bicolour LED or anything). I have the gain set to 40% in both modes. In one of them the gyro is tending to slowly drive the rudder to one end. In the other it tends to input a correction then go back to neutral. Also the rudder position tends to jump when I switch between modes. Is there an easy way to identify which mode it is in from the behaviour ?

Thanks,
Kenneth

[Finless]

Ken, sorry I have NO knowledge of that gyro. With a 401 you want as close to 100% for travel limit as possible! I cant say for that gyro sorry.

Bob

[shauntot]

Well Bob, I'm done with the bird. Do you have any experience with the telebee/align gyro?? that's what i'm using and it seems that I have a problem, tail keeps spinning and won't stop until I give counter rudder...my rudder servo is moving to one direction only?!?! all channels correct though, all limits ok

[Seeker]

Get the mechanical set up on the tail. Put the gyro in non-HH and trim (using rudder trim) to hold the tail.

Then adjust the servo placement on the tail or the pushrod links to hold the tail at the same spot while getting the tail servo to center. This should allow you to put your rudder trim back to zero.

Now that your set up your gyro should be able to hold.

[bertus]

Finless - I'm a newbie to helis and I just wanted to thank you for your build videos. I recently got a CDE CCPM kit and while your videos cover the HDE model, your videos touched on a number of similar areas which helped me with my own build.

Once again from this side of the world - THANK YOU!!!

[shauntot]

Hey seeker, tnx so very much!!! Tried that and it bloody worked!!! yahoo i'm now hovering!! thanks again!!!!

[Blaze_au]

Hmm.. need another video... why it's a bad thing to hold the tail while testing the movement of the swash...

After spending a few hours making sure the head etc was right... I screw it up by hitting my thumb at speed.... :oops:

Tally... very sore thumb, broken blade, stripped main gear, not sure what else walked away before I did anything else stupid.. :arggg:

[Seeker]

Hey seeker, tnx so very much!!! Tried that and it bloody worked!!! yahoo i'm now hovering!! thanks again!!!!

You're welcome Sir... of course I only know cuz the multi times I had boom strikes on the trex (and one on the rappy doing autos :arggg: ) and some guy showed me.

[zooland1]

Bob, I've got a crisis and no clue short of jumping off a cliff on how to solve. And no I'm not talking about belt tension, although still on my mind.

After watching the "quicky" vid, I realized I had some setup errors on my HDE. I realigned everything and reset the servos properly. Now everything is lined up correctly. What I hadn't realized before, (I hadn't to this point thrown it into idle up) was I'm only getting -5 to +6 pitch in idle up. then I double checked normal mode and found I had -5 at mid stick. Throw it into idle up and it's +-0 at mid stick. Where did I screw up? I figure it has to be in the 7C programming, but everything is set to your curves so it should be correct. All endpoints are still 100% so I'm not limiting travel.

Helpme, help me!!! :arggg:

[shauntot]

Zooland, not that I'm an expert but I also ran into that problem. I have a CDE, but I think it can apply to your HDE. I didn't have - pitch at midstick, but about +3 only. I went ahead and lengthened the links from the washout upwards.

Hope that helps out
Cheers
Shaun

[Finless]

zooland1,

what are your PITCH curve numbers for idle and normal?

Also make sure you turned OFF anyu dials or sliders that have to do with HOV-PITCH and PITCH TRIM. You could have a know or slider effecting your curves. This seems to be a common mistake lately..

Bob

[zooland1]

Never mind :noteworthy some how I did have end points set on channel 6. I don't remember doing that, but anyway. Did you tell me to in a vid? :? I always do what you say, so you must have told me to. Thanks :dontknow

[Finless]

Yes I think I did ;)

Set the radio to defaults BEFORE starting...... Hey it's OK we ALL make a mistake now and then......

Shrug it off and go forward!

Bob

[tony1726]

Hi to all.
Please any help for radio setting up my T-rex XL CCPM.
Tx Hitec Eclipse 7
Rx Hitec 7ch Qpcm 35Mhz
Servos HS 55
ESC Align 25A
Guro Align 500
Best Rgds

[audiosong]

Thanks for these wonderful videos, very helpfull !

Marc.

[jocatch]

Bob, excellent videos! Awesome. I have just ordered the XL with HDE and it should come in a few days. But I have already downloaded the manual to study it and I must say it is not very good for assembly. Sure, it shows exploded views of everything but it has very few words giving any details. The steps aren't that clear and order of assembly could be better. Plus my eyesight is not the best and the manual (at least the dowloaded one) is not too clear and the graphics hard to read in spots. I don't think I will be able to assembly the XL CORRECTLY without your videos!

You mention lockite and CA and some kind of special pliers. Could you give some more details like brands and where to purchase them? Thanks again.

Joe C