Another nitro newbie needs advice

[hs100]

I'm new with nitro helis. Just bought an almost new Trex 600N that had just been broke in. I'll have the heli stored for 3-4 months and I need some advise on:

1) should I drain the fuel from the tank or can I leave it there?.
2) Is there any storage procedure for the engine?
3) Any recommendationes from when I take the heli out from storage for my 1st flight?
3) Excuse my ignorance but, do these engines have an air filter or any other parts that require regular maintenance? I haven't seen any.

[tweav]

1: yes you should remove all the fuel after your done running it . It doesn't really matter how long your leaving it sit it can still fill the motor up with fuel and lock it up if there is any in it. Plus old fuel gets hard to clean out if it dries up.

2: Yes your should put a few drops after run oil or at least some ATF for any storage longer then a few days.

3: when you take a heli out after a storage time you should plan on retuning the engine. and if you did not store it right plan on cleaning out dried up fuel and rust.

4: there is no air cleaner but the whole heli should be gone over every few flights to check for worn parts and loose bolts. nitro heli's vibrate motor then electric heli's . everything tends to shake loose

[devious17]

1. Yes, the fuel might be flat by now.
2. Nothing in particular but I always fully close the card during storage.
3. I would lube the bearings on the heli and totally dismantle the engine just to ensure there is no rust internally.
4. No question is a dumb question, no one uses a filter on their heli engine unlike them surface engines. I take off and land on a elevated helipad to prevent dust from getting into the engine.

[hs100]

Thanks for the advice. I'll drain the fuel tank immediately.

The heli has the 3-way fuel filter and the fuel line has been locked with the fuel clip since the last flight so I'm pretty sure that no fuel has been going into the engine. I hope that there will not be any issues with rust.

As per lubricating the engine for storage, how do I put some drops of oil into the engine: disconnect the fuel line and put the oil into the fuel inlet? Do I need to rotate the engine after puting the oil?

[tweav]

the easiest way to afterlube the engine , is to use a syringe with a needle on it and drip 2 or 3 drops right into the carb then crank the engine over to get the lube down in the bearings .

[tweav]

Originally Posted by hs100

Thanks for the advice. I'll drain the fuel tank immediately.

The heli has the 3-way fuel filter and the fuel line has been locked with the fuel clip since the last flight so I'm pretty sure that no fuel has been going into the engine. I hope that there will not be any issues with rust.

I've had the fuel flood my engine just sitting on my work bench for an hour with the clip locked . I had to take the glow plug out to be able to roll the motor over. So when in doubt drain it out.

Now if you want to know the reason it filled the motor . I was out flying and it was cold out . so my fuel was cold . I brought it inside it warmed up and the fuel expanded . I pulled the line off and it ran like a garden hose. took the plug out of the pipe and it stopped.

[mlucia]

After run oil is not necessary.
http://www.morganfuel.com/cp_faq.htm#4

1) should I drain the fuel from the tank or can I leave it there?.
If storing for long periods, yes. Drain the fuel out.

2) Is there any storage procedure for the engine?
You will get mixed opinions on this. Personally I have never done anything and they are fine after a long winter nap

3) Any recommendationes from when I take the heli out from storage for my 1st flight?
Fresh glow plug and I always change the clunk line. Check head bolts, back plate, carb and such for tightness.

3) Excuse my ignorance but, do these engines have an air filter or any other parts that require regular maintenance? I haven't seen any.
No air filter. It's always good to take the engine apart and check the piston, sleeve, ring for damage once in awhile. Also the bearings in the 50 hyper are prone to going bad. I feel this depends on how one treats their engine (running to lean for example. Heat.) For the most part, no.

[Steelie]

Originally Posted by tweav

the easiest way to afterlube the engine , is to use a syringe with a needle on it and drip 2 or 3 drops right into the carb then crank the engine over to get the lube down in the bearings .

Nope. Sorry. The easiest way is through the fuel line. Unhook the fuel line from the threeway (or filter) leaving it attached to the carb. Open the carb with the radio, force (usually with a small squeeze bottle) oil into the fuel line until the fuel line is visibly full up to the carb, then spin the engine with the starter. You can see the oil get sucked into the engine where it is evenly dispersed because it is atomized from the spraybar in the carb. This is why I use translucent fuel line up to the carb. You can see things happen. OK to use solid colored lines everywhere else.

[fastflyer20]

Comments on the question of fuel:
Heli fuel is mainly comprised of methanol. It is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture.
It should always be pumped out after flying. Any residual fuel in the engine is also where rust/corrosion will start. The after run oil is an attempt to decrease internal engine corrosion. Always keep stored fuel in a tightly closed container.

An neat trick to decrease foaming. if you are having a problems, is to spray 1 shot of Armor All or Son of a Gun into your main fuel container before use. The silicone acts as an excellent de-foamer. Shake the container and you will see the foam vanish. This helps if the engine is suffering from the foam casuing an erratic lean condition.

[tweav]

Originally Posted by Steelie

Nope. Sorry. The easiest way is through the fuel line. Unhook the fuel line from the threeway (or filter) leaving it attached to the carb. Open the carb with the radio, force (usually with a small squeeze bottle) oil into the fuel line until the fuel line is visibly full up to the carb, then spin the engine with the starter. You can see the oil get sucked into the engine where it is evenly dispersed because it is atomized from the spraybar in the carb. This is why I use translucent fuel line up to the carb. You can see things happen. OK to use solid colored lines everywhere else.

Ok maybe not the easiest but it is better then putting more nitro in for storage . I shut my fuel line off to run the motor out of fuel when I'm planning to have the heli on the shelf for awhile. So at that point there is no fuel in the motor just oil to keep it from rusting.

[TheBum]

Originally Posted by fastflyer20

An neat trick to decrease foaming. if you are having a problems, is to spray 1 shot of Armor All or Son of a Gun into your main fuel container before use. The silicone acts as an excellent de-foamer. Shake the container and you will see the foam vanish. This helps if the engine is suffering from the foam casuing an erratic lean condition.

That's interesting, considering that RTV silicone will foul glow plugs. I would think the silicone in the fuel would at least shorten the life of the plug.

[Steelie]

Originally Posted by TheBum

That's interesting, considering that RTV silicone will foul glow plugs. I would think the silicone in the fuel would at least shorten the life of the plug.

That is not the first time I read that. Saw it on RCU. The Armor All trick was used quite a few years ago but was found to cause other issues, the glow plug being one.
Modern day fuels already have anti foaming agents in them anyway. If you are experiencing foam, I would change brands or balance the blades or prop.