Help With Spark Jumping Problem

[Brett]

I noticed that on my Spectra tha spark arc's to the briaded protector. I built exactly how stated in the book and it went to gether with ease. Then I hade to pull the plug as it was flooded spun it and noticed it was arcing on the braided sheild from the boot. Also when on the plug it arc's through the boot to the frame.

How can I solve this ? Doeas anyone know of a metal boot like vario uses that will work or some other fix. I must have messed it up when I pulled it off now its all hosed up

Thanks

[wingtip]

the braided sheath needs to be slid little farther down and away from the boot since it seems some of the conductor in the boot is exposed im guessing... some guys dont run the sheath at all ...

[Brett]

the braided sheath needs to be slid little farther down and away from the boot since it seems some of the conductor in the boot is exposed im guessing... some guys dont run the sheath at all ...

Thanks, but the bigger problem now seems to be that its jumping through the boot to the frame, any one have a suggestion for that ?

[bigrcr]

Replace the boot. You can get a good stock type boot at the local chain saw shop; just show them what you have. If the stock boot gets a cut, hole etc. in it the arcing will occur.

You can also get one of the plug manufacturers caps. These are usually Bakelite type material. Miniature carries one of these caps. The problem most times is that the plug wire is too short to reach the plug then so you can move the coil location. Zenoah just does not give you enough plug wire!

When mounting the grounding shield a couple of things need to be considered.

One, if your plug wire is in poor condition, it can leak to the ground and your motor will run like crap or not at all.

Two, the end of the grounding "loom" need to be back far enough so that the spark does not short to it. I personally have mine within 1/4" inch of the boot but took great pains installing it. This is what I did:

-Ensured that the plug wire had no holes, abrasions, etc. (I use new).
-Wiped down the entire plug wire with acetone (so that RTV had the best chance to stick).

-Made sure that NO wires from the shield protruded forward of the tie-wrap leaving the 1/4" inch gap. I did this by placing the first tie-wrap back far enough so that the end of the shielding would protrude 3/8" inch past the wrap. I then brought the excess shielding back across the tie-wrap toward the coil and secured it with a second tie-wrap on the coil side of the first one.

-I clipped all of the little wires left sticking out of the end of the shielding (remember they are all sticking back toward the coil now and cannot get under the boot!
-Used red RTV at the junction of the plug wire and boot; making sure that the RTV got slightly under the boot and formed a good coating back to the shielding.

-Let the whole thing cure.

By doing this I have had no shielding cause problems, only fix them! :glasses2:

I hope that this helps!!

[Brett]

Replace the boot. You can get a good stock type boot at the local chain saw shop; just show them what you have. If the stock boot gets a cut, hole etc. in it the arcing will occur.

Went to every lawnmover shop in town none of them have anthing. I noticed the wire where the stinger plugs in has another small puncture in it. May have happened when I took the plug out, I was rough grabbing it with pliars. I want to get one of the RF noice eliminators but dont know which one or how the wire connects as they dont give you much to work with. I dont see any other holes I could use to move the coil closer.

[wingtip]

the hole in the wire is where the conductor of the red boot connects to the conductor of the wire, you bend it in a 90 angle and shove it thru the insulation so that both conductors are making connection......... this is why i had such a hard time getting mine to start and almost pissed me off enough to quit... a simple connection.... it was close enough it would make the plug spark... but not enough to run...

[Brett]

the hole in the wire is where the conductor of the red boot connects to the conductor of the wire, you bend it in a 90 angle and shove it thru the insulation so that both conductors are making connection......... this is why i had such a hard time getting mine to start and almost pissed me off enough to quit... a simple connection.... it was close enough it would make the plug spark... but not enough to run...

Yep I understand that and the stinger is in that hole but still wont pop, a second smaller hole exists next to it and I am wondering if thats creating a path with less resistance to cause an arc

[wingtip]

well you could remove the boot and slide on a piece of heat shrink tubing and re connect then heat shrink the boot and wire so there is less likely of a chance of arcing... i had this problem early on as well, had arcing bigtime to my csm revlock till i insulated the boot and wire..........

[rbort]

Take it off! You don't need that spark plug braid thing. Everyone that I've personally seen with it has had issues with it sparking like that. I fly my Spectra with the stock boot without this braid thing and everything works just fine. Maybe it helps in some situations, but if you use PCM, a revolution whip and route stuff properly then there is no issues.

-=>Raja.