hanson balancing mod

[learmd]

ok this is more a poll than anything else.. would like to hear your opinions on it.. how many of have this mod on your helis.. i'm building my first bergen gasser standard boom.. should i since i'm at this stage of the build send the engine out and have it done.. or its neglible for the sort of flying that i will do.. (no hardcore stuff) and it will not be a camera ship.. just would like to hear how others feel about it and what they do with their helis.. thanks in advance for all your thoughts

Harold

[DebianDog]

I have a modified Hanson G26 and it runs smooth as glass and it is a cameraship. The question is:

Is it because I run Amsoil 2oz. to the gallon and it is tuned right?

OR

Did I just "get lucky"?

I do not have another motor so I am not sure.

[cbergen]

That's hard to say Dan, I run 5 oz of pennzoil and mine is pretty smooth, too!!

Maybe we both got "lucky"!! :D

For the type of flying that you have described, I would say it isn't necessary to have it modded. Would it hurt? Of course not.

As Dog suggested, as long as it't tuned properly, that engine in an Intrepid gasser does not exhibit an inordinate amount of vibration.

[heliplt]

As Chris stated" as long as it is tuned properly" they run great but the pro plus mod is the best thing I had done for my Observer ....extra smooth .
I would try your engine in stock form first and if you feel that you need the modification then just take out and send it to Al at Hanson products.

Good luck on the build and if you have question call Chris Bergen ,I have him on seed dial :D They have the best customer service out there :smokin:

[DebianDog]

I would try your engine in stock form first and if you feel that you need the modification then just take out and send it to Al at Hanson products.

Well I would let it burn a gallon or better. Mine really smoothed out about the time I hit 2 gallons.

[WillJames]

The Dawg's IS definitely smooth. One of the smoothest I have seen. Breakin does smooth them out like he is saying from what I have been taught.

One of the most frustrating thing about gas motors is how inconsistent they are with respect to vibs. Some vib at one RPM and others at another, finding the right RPM for you motor can be hard, but not impossible. The other thing to keep in mind is that tuning makes a big difference. I have seen John Garst and Chris Bergen both smooth out peoples helis by tuning them properly when the people had previously been pulling their hair out and not able to get the vibs down. Tuned the heli was smooth as it gets. Gassers take time and dedication to get spot on, but once they are, they are a lot of fun. Search our video forum for Spectra or Bergen or Shuttera and you can see a bunch of great flights and smooth running gassers that are well tuned.

[cbergen]

Very good point guys, it does take some time for break in, which greatly affects the smoothness of the engine.

But again, it is in the tuning, even from the beginning. Some are recommending to tune a brand new engine with a slight four stroke during the break in process. I tune it to run smooth, but use a little extra oil during this time.

6 of one, half dozen of another, the ***** is, if you tune it the way "We" know how then I can help you when something is amiss. If tuning it with another method, then you have to get the help from another direction when it's acting up, just because I am not familiar with that method, and don't know which way to go with your needles.

An additional aid that has come up in the last few months is this aluminum insulator from Z-RC. It's gonna make tuning these engines more consistant across the board by eliminating that irritating leak from the stock insulator.

For $34.95, it's cheap insurance for your engine.

[DebianDog]

An additional aid that has come up in the last few months is this aluminum insulator from Z-RC. It's gonna make tuning these engines more consistant across the board by eliminating that irritating leak from the stock insulator.

For $34.95, it's cheap insurance for your engine.

You know I never had a leak but bought the insulator. When I was putting it back together I remembered something. I had help putting the Condor together from an old time RC plane gasser guy. He said something like, "hey I have never worked on a gasser heli but I think there should be a gasket here" then pulled out some marterial and made one. Probably why I never had the issue huh?

[cbergen]

There are supposed to be gaskets, they are included, one under the insulator block and one in between the insulator and the carburetor.

'Course you got yours from that "other" company :D , so maybe it got misplaced somehow!!

I never had much of an issue with the stock one either, until I replaced a brand new stock insulator (about 3 tanks through it) with the aluminum one and had to richen my needles!! That tells me that the new one (with 3 tanks through it) was leaking after all. Now the engine was running just fine, I had it tuned to compensate for the minor leakage that must have ben present. But a leak only gets worse, not better, and would have required attention on a regular basis to prevent getting too lean.

With the Teflon gaskets on the aluminum insulator, it should not leak. I believe time will tell, but for right now with only 5 or 6 tanks through it, so far so good!

[learmd]

thanks guys... keep em coming.. i guess it was for information on my part to see how the other half lives .. example of during the build when electronics are installed some people just get em in there so they can fly.. then some like to put braided wrap on the wires and make a nice clean routing of the wires.. just as when the kit arrives the first thing in the mail is the engine for the mod while the build is taking place..lol i was just curious..yes i have seen gary travis' tuning video and yes i agree its all in the tuning...chris, when are you usually up in atlant? i will be relocating to jonesboro in the near future.. would also like to ask some questions about navigating through the bergen site..

thanks Harold

[cbergen]

I'm actually full time in MI now, I will be in ATL (Fayetteville) next week, moving my two boys up here with me. YES!!

Hit me with any questions, I'll do my best.

[learmd]

thats great chris :D ....in the website is there any illustrated parts catalog on the website or do i need to put in the part name or part # to find the part?

Harold

[cbergen]

On the new CD manual you should find all the parts in picture form with description and part number. If you need a new copy, let me know, we'll get one coming.

[learmd]

chris i have the part names and #'s on the pages of the manual as youigo through the build but not an exploded view of sub assemblies with part #'s like would find in an illustrated parts catalog

[cbergen]

I see, No we do not have an IPC lke that.

What I mentioned is separate from the manual, a totally different file. Take a look on your CD, see if it's there. This is a fairly new addition, as of this year.

[learmd]

chris i didnt see any seperate file ...i will call you tomorrow i need to get some carb insulators from you and a some longer ele. x arm balls and some other info...
what is the best time to reach you and is the # on the website the best one to call

[cbergen]

Usually between 9 and 5, I'll be heading for SLC tommorrow, but Maryann or my father Larry, will be more than happy to take care of you.

[heliplt]

I would try your engine in stock form first and if you feel that you need the modification then just take out and send it to Al at Hanson products.

Well I would let it burn a gallon or better. Mine really smoothed out about the time I hit 2 gallons.
He is right about running at least a gallon thru it first but in my case I had too much vibration from the stock engine.
These engines are mass produced and no two engines are going to run the same or be balanced the same. The engine in mine had 0.001 run out at the top of the crank and the fly wheel was heavy on on side.
" just someting to think about"

[WillJames]

Jonesboro TN?

[learmd]

jonesboro, GA :D, but did spend some time in smithville TN, keep it comin guys and gals the information is great and greatly appreciated, and while we are on the topic of engines what gov/servo are ya'll using thats about the only thing i havent picked of for this bird, i realize the pickup will be the stator gator but would like to know what combo you are using

thanks again
Harold

[DebianDog]

I use a 401 on all my helis. It holds the tail for my level of skill and comes with a 9254. If you can afford better buy it. Never hurts to have a better one.

[learmd]

hmmmmm.. :lol: interesting :lol: would you use the gain to select the desired headspeed :dontknow :lol: :lol: :lol:

[heliplt]

Hey Will..... is the stator gator and GV-1 worth the cost, I have been thinking about getting one for my Bergen Observer? :dontknow

[WillJames]

Not sure in a camera ship C. IMHO, what a GOV does for a gas machine is make it easier to fly for a newbie or a 3D flyer. In other words let me try to explain.

My own Spectra G or Bergen EB, I mainly flew in Idleup, and had the curve tweaked for good power. When I wanted to descend fast but not auto, I clicked into Normal mode where I had a lot lower throttle curve to help control overspeed on the way down. Due to the much higher rotational mass of the gas engine, it is a lot easier to oversped the head. If you are doing a lot of flying around and loops and roll s and other flying where the head will have a tendency to overspeed and if you are not 100% on your Throttle curves a governor can help make up for that. The Stator Gator is the easiest way to get a GOV ona heli period, I wish there was something like it for glow. I personally never ran a governor as I was really keen on learning how to setup my curves, I had really never learned much about creating good curves and tweaking them as I always ran GV-1's on all my glow machines.

On a camera ship, especially a loaded one, that is fairly heavy, a governor probably is not needed to control overspeed as the head remains a lot more loaded, but I am not sure. I don't know enough to really answer well, other than in generalities. Chris Bergen or any of the other AP guys would have to answer this question if you want a good answer.

[DebianDog]

Oh... You said servo and messed me up. I run a Gator and CSM revlock on my gasser AP ship for no other reason than to keep the headspeed at an exact number where no vibrations exist.