Odin & Knight 3D & 3Dplus Technical Stuff

[Mercuriell]

Got any great Compass glow-motor tips ? Care to share ? These models are relatively new and rare at the moment so there are lots of undocumented techincal ideas and stuff out there - I'll be posting regularly too as I explore the range and get some hours on the helis - May I respectfully suggest we keep this thread tight so post your tips here and if you have any issues to discuss post them in the Discussion sticky :)

I'll be posting links in this thread to any must see postings !

K3D Mixer Arm Spreadsheet - Hornet Dave (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=147593)

Tail Servo Front Mounting - Tradhunt (http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=1218950&postcount=2)

Setting the phasing ring - Mercuriell (http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=1213366&postcount=6)

FDR on Odin fan - Mercuriell (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=120972&highlight=fdr+odin)

[Tradhunt]

Hey Regiepogi and Mercuriell,
Thanks, Yes it's an Align tail pitch lever and the landing gear mount's off of a 600n I buy my CF rod's from centeral hobbies you can get them in the combo... that includes the rod's and ends. i cut them down to fit and epoxy them together.

I've been making them for several year's for my K3D's and they work out great.

I use 3/16th rod that come with 2.5mm ends from Central Hobbies.
Align frame mount blocks (HN6019)
Align metal tail control arm (HN6038
Thundertiger ball links (PV0041) they thread on the 2.5mm ends good.
Century Tail rod guide Adjustable (HI6106) Predator 60-90

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83679&d=1235440258

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83680&d=1235440258

http://www.helifreak.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=83681&d=1235440258

[Mercuriell]

Change of bearing assembly order in the Odin rotor head (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=109425) Dec 08

[Mercuriell]

After a couple of demolished booms I found that the M3 bolts into the rectangular CNC frame brace for the boom struts had stripped out - there's only about 4mm bite into them - I had also lost the ali spacers - solution to flip the frame upside down - the top holes are just frame attachments and don't take so much stress. I then pinched some QuickUK T700 canopy supports to replace the lost ali spaces - looks neat and if the struts tear away again hopefull I can just replace the spacer.

On the subject of QuickUK spacers (http://www.quickuk.eu/products/686/align/t-rex_600/trex_600_e_canopy_mounting_set_txf-02.html)I also used some for the canopy supports to give a bit more clearance of the canopy from the main gear.

[Mercuriell]

A few people early on remarked that the Atom suffered phasing problems - the overall consensus (including Bob and myself) is that is does not but Luke Lao (Compass designer) posted this paper to explain the phenomenon - the Atom (probably due to higher HS) has about 4° advance on the rotor head to compensate for blade lag and this is fixed, The Odin and Knight have adjustable phasing rings but seem pretty spot on at 90°

[Mercuriell]

Not many helis out there with adjustable phasing now - the larger helis are nearly all spot on at 90° and slight interactions can now be dialed out with Prog Mixes.

The Knight and Odin feature a phasing ring whereby the angle between the rotor head and the inner swash can be adjusted with a short CNC block that slips over the main shaft secured by set screws and takes the phasing pins from the washout block.

To set the ring line up the rotor head 90° to the main boom - easy way to do this is to place the tips of the blade at equal length over the mid point of the boom (pic1)

Next the ball on the inner swash can be lined up directly opposite ball link on the elevator A frame - if it is wished to try to advance the phasing it can be rotated so that the inner swash ball is slightly more clockwise than the elevator ball link. One of the ring set screws can now be tightened and if happy the remaining set screw can be Loctited in. Note on the pic it looks much more advanced than it is due to parallax distortion (next time I have the seesaw out I'll re-photo.

It is important to check the vertical position of the phasing ring - on the Odin if it abutts the bottom of the rotor head the phasing pins can fall out the ring (interesting flight results :smokin: ) if the ring is too low it's gonna limit upward swash movement and collective range - I found about 3.5mm worked for me on the Odin :)

[Hati]

Can I suggest a thread for each of the 3 Compass models? It will be much easier to quickly find what you are looking for, especially once a lot of info is collected here.

[Mercuriell]

Can I suggest a thread for each of the 3 Compass models? It will be much easier to quickly find what you are looking for, especially once a lot of info is collected here.

You send in the contributions and when we have enough I'll split 'em !!! Get to work :whip

[Aussie_G]

to save some heartache try using the mavrikk supergear to replace the langing gear on the Knight 3D & 600E
Much more flexible - doesnt snap like the stock ones

Also, dont use the metal landing gear mount - it WILL break your frames

[Hati]

Good stuff :thumbup:

[Mercuriell]

The tail case has been modded a bit for the Odin - some of the super hard 3D guys reported increased tail belt wear especially during fast reversals - an extra collar has been added to restrict extremes of movement (don't worry there's plenty left) and the idler roller bearing has gone - the sideplates have been modded slightly with an extra cutout and without the hump for the idler bolt

[regiepogi]

http://i132.photobucket.com/albums/q8/regie222/P1040110.jpg

Thanks for the update John! On the pic, it looks like the belt is almost touching the housing. What's the clearance there?

[Mercuriell]

Thats a good observation Regie - I'll ask Compass what the story is here - maybe the new tailbox without idler has more clearance - haven't run mine but as it is the slack side of the belt I can see that a bit of slap could cause it to chaff on the CNC.

[chariot]

ok, if the old side alu board is used the clearance is not much. if the new one is used we got a better clearance but still the print 'compass model' will get blured after a few flights. we are now asking the supplier to produce a thinner belt with which we can get 0.5mm more clearance.
one morething, we do not encourage to use soft tube to limited the tail pitch range, as observed sometime it can be pushed away by the linkage system.
luke

[regiepogi]

Nice to hear about this from you, Luke! Please keep us posted always. :thumbup:

How about another design for the belt guide instead of the ball race? I think it would be better to develop a new design rather than make the belt thinner.

My .02.

[regiepogi]

My version of the rudder convertion on my Odin using the K3D's convertion kit, CF rod and Pro Weld (like JB Weld). The balls are scraping the canopy so I ended up putting the balls at the back of the servo arms, both for throttle and rudder. Not the type for show but it does the job 101%. :thumbup:

[beeflyer2]

For the Knight 3D tail servo relocation kit, a T-Rex 700 rudder control rod is the perfect length. Also, a Duratrax 90 degree pressure fitting can be used on the tank vent to avoid interference with the control rod.

http://www.readyheli.com/HN7047_Aluminum_Tail_Boom_Black_TREX_700_Nitro_p/hn7047.htm

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTT83&P=7

See pics of my completed installation here:

http://www.helifreak.com/showpost.php?p=1471784&postcount=75

[TJinGuy]

Converting the K600e to a 9T pinion

Ok this is my experience with replacing the fixed 10T with a 9T. (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=153808)

[n8rloves2fly]

Great job I'm still figuring out how to get the canopy on.

[regiepogi]

I had to grind the canopy and I still had to use the K3D's canopy post (longer than Odin's) so it won't touch the main gear.

[Mercuriell]

There's a few Odin upgrades hitting the dealers including longer canopy mounts, redesigned tail case and belt and new engine mounts

[regiepogi]

Hi John! What's the difference between the old and new tail belts and engine mounts?

Oh and what are the part numbers of those updated parts? TIA!

[Mercuriell]

The new belt is 0.3mm thinner to give greater clearance from the tail case without the roller (a problem you pointed out Regie!) The new engine mounts use one large damper that the engine brack is mounted in rather than two dampers for the mounting bolts. THese are replasements fot the older designs so I think they will carry the same part nos possibly with an 'n' suffix.

[Dave Ketelhut]

yea and i have to add the new motor mounts actually helped with tuning. with less vibes from the motor it made the motor run a bit cooler so i was able to lean the motor out a little more then normal and gave it a more consistent tune.

[regiepogi]

Ah I see. Thanks John!

Hi David! Thanks for sharing that. I will have to order two sets of the new motor mount for my two babies. :D