Cut down tail rotor mod

[Rick Rotorhead]

Hi all, as raised in my earlier posts my Twister/Blade CP was giving me trouble with having too much tail authority - like as in full left trim plus some manually held left stick to keep straight, sooooo, I've cut a whole inch off the tail rotor diameter. It now stays straight with little tail trim needed and the tail motor runs cooler I think, plus it looks more 'in keeping' proportion wise. The need for this mod may be peculiar to my specific model, but I'm glad it works. Anyone else tried this?

[schmleff]

The first thing I did was balance my tail, since they are all out of balance from the factory. I have reasoned that cutting it down would reduce the weight and spin up time so I am going to try it too.

The tail is the most annoying thing about this little model. If it would stay put, it would be much easier to fly.

[Skiddz]

I've been cutting down my TR props from 4.5 to 3.75" for a couple months now. Keeps the TR motor cooler by easing the load on it. I run a DD setup and so far, it's working out well with the cut props.

[Gary JP4]

I am trying it now. I have the DD tail and have removed about 1/4" so far. I will keep going.

The worst thing about the way it flies is the torque turning I get when I add or reduce power like in saving from a decent. Turns nose left when power/colective is increased and nose right when power is decreased. Is there anything you can do to reduce that other than holding a constant power setting?

[schmleff]

I cut down the tail rotor 1" with the stock motor. Did not work out well. It does not hold as well, especially with lots of collective. Back to stock for me.

[Skiddz]

he worst thing about the way it flies is the torque turning I get when I add or reduce power like in saving from a decent. Turns nose left when power/colective is increased and nose right when power is decreased. Is there anything you can do to reduce that other than holding a constant power setting?

You can try messing with the proportional and/or the gain pots on the 4-in-1. The "gyro" in the 4-in-1 is a rate gyro, not a heading hold unit. Changes in power will require changes in tailrotor - you're going to have to fly the tail a bit, even if you get the propo and gain really dialed in.

[groundparrot]

Check pic in my gallery

Ben

[Skiddz]

Assuming that fuzzy black thing is a 4-bladed setup, <grin> how's it work? Doesn't it overwork the TR motor??

[groundparrot]

Skiddz,
It is two stock rotors cut down to 4 3/4 ".
RPM is 3000 in hover and 4500 full right.
That means the motor is turning 17000-26000 so low current draw.
big heat sink ,runs cool. Quick response.
Over 20 hours on this motor so far.
Ben

PS
I will take some new pics.

[Skiddz]

Nice..

I was kicking around running a couple GWS 3020s on my DD setup to see how they worked. Maybe time to put the geared setup back on...

[Gary JP4]

I have by 4530 on GWS DD tail cut down to just a tad over 4 inches. Can't tell the difference in performance but it sounds cool and I think runs a little cooler. I have by proportional set so that I start with left trim and end up with full right trim. I power up with trim centered and move about 3/4 left after 4 in 1 syncs up. I end up with full right trim at the end of a 5 to 7 minute run.

[ballwall]

i put the carbon fiber tail blade on with stock motor so far 15 plus flights so far no cutting or anything.

[Buzzkill]

I did the DD tail mod this weekend. Holds like a champ.