Coning on Blade CP!

[Rick Rotorhead]

Hi all, after a spot of dirt digging with my Twister (Blade)CP I had to change the blade grips and connecting shaft. When re-assembled, I noticed a significant static coning angle across the rotor (about 1/2 inch at each blade tip), I don't remember seeing this before, I thought the rotor disc was supposed to be flat! Can anyone advise if this is correct and if I should flatten the disc, how can I adjust it. ps: I have flown it with the 'dihedraled' blades and it seem ok, but is it right?
Cheers Rick

[zooland1]

You should have no coning at all. It's possible the new grips are slightly offset. You need to adjust your tracking. Go to bladecprepair.com for a detailed howto. You can also watch finless'vids for the Trex. The process is the same for the Blade. IMHO the vid is best. Kind of like having a tutor.

http://www.helifreak.com/about12455.html

[Rick Rotorhead]

Ah ha, the coning is mild crash damage - seems the connecting bar between the blade grips is slightly bent - if I rotate it sideways I can get get rid of the coning, but it (the rod) may rotate in flight changing the coning from +ve through flat to -ve (anhedral). Doesn't seem to fly any worse - its kak with any configuration :lol:

[ronaldf]

That is one of the commom crash damages. I understand that a stronger one is available.

[Gary JP4]

For me damage in order of least to worse is first just blade tips, next is main shaft, then feathering shaft, then balls break off arms on rotor head. It does not fly very well with that feathering shaft bent.

[Rick Rotorhead]

My cheapest regular part to replace is the main shaft with gear, costs £5.50
If its a bit wobbly when I spool up, I can within limits, bend it back by hand just by thumb pressure sideways on the head - yes really!
The blade grips and those pesky little levers attached to them are £13 a pair - only good thing is that if they didn't break the servo gears would likely go instead!
Main blades survive multiple dings, but if they go, its £22 for a pair cf ones.
Tail rotor is annoyingly vulnerable (like on all helis) - digging dirt backward costs £4.50 for the rotor, and if the gear goes too its another £4.50.
An occaisional mild crash is affordable on a regular basis, but those parts costs sure do add up over time - in three months its cost half the heli again. Funny thing is although I'm improving hugely I still crash as much - cos I push my limits I suppose. Next thing is my abused Lipos arn't holding charge (no swelling), I might try a larger pack by a different maker - anyone out there got experience of upgrading their Lipos, will the stock chargerbalancer be ok for say 1300 mah cells?

[Gary JP4]

No mater what I break every time I make a parts order it is more than $50 sometimes a lot more because I always want something else, need tools, or stock something that is not broken yet. And that’s at least twice a month.

I don't know about the Lipo charger but I think it should work. Just slower due to the same charge rate with a bigger battery. Mine smoked after a few charges on the stock 1000mah 3S that came with the HB CP2. I already had a better charger but liked having and extra.

If it is like mine it charges through the ballance connector. There are a few different type connectors so you would have to get a bettery with the same connector. I don't know which it is. I know I don't have a connector for it so it might be Thunder Power.