Trex 600 Build Videos will be here:

[Gravitysucks]

The 3151's will be MUCH better servos than the 3001's for sure... Personally I wouldnt use 3001 in a Trex600. Speed is .17 at 6V so while not that great they will work OK.

Bob

Thanks, I kind of thought that would be your answer. The power consumptions not a problem though?

[Finless]

Nope.... Most run servos that suck way more power than those do.

Bob

[PsychoPilot145]

Thanks Bob!

[kraut_fan]

Torque Tube? did you install it?

[Finless]

Yes right here.... Top video on the first post.
http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=finless/trex600&filename=shaftdrive.wmv

Bob

[kraut_fan]

I saw it, I was just wondering if you can tell a difference with it installed?

[davidgeorge212]

how do you get that rubber ring on the gear drive to fit down the tube? I tried putting CA on it like you said and when I go to put the shaft down the tube the rubber berring just pops loose because it is so tight.

[davidgeorge212]

Well I worked and worked and finally got in the tube, that was tough

[Finless]

You ned to lube the rubber (silicon spray) so it will slide down the tube.

Bob

[Mercuriell]

how do you get that rubber ring on the gear drive to fit down the tube? I tried putting CA on it like you said and when I go to put the shaft down the tube the rubber berring just pops loose because it is so tight.

I found washing up liquid on the rubber mount then pour some water down the TT and it slips down really well - makes removal easy too - just add water again !

[Finless]

Those are NOT stainless bearings!!!! Water and those bearings arent a good mix and thus the potential of RUST.... Sorry Mercuriell but not a good idea...

Bob

[Rob and kriss]

Hey Bob, thanks mate, these vids are such a big help, neet electronics mounting, i would have been this guy :arggg: if not for your effort,

[MarkH]

Hi Bob,

I have been out of rc helicopters for about 13 years, my last machine being a JR Ergo 60. Please forgive my question if it's common knowledge. I'm using a GY611 with a S9256. The brass inserts that go in the rubber grommets in the servo are to small for the supplied mounting screws from align to go thru. Any suggestions?

Also, the videos are a tremendous help.

Thanks.
Mark

[Finless]

Most people do not use the brass inserts ANYWHERE on a heli. The metal to metal contact can cause radio issues.
As you saw in my vids for servo mounting I reccomend the Raptor servo straps and also Align has carbon servo straps out now too. BUT the screws and washer provided will secure the servos just fine.

Bob

[MarkH]

Thanks.

Mark

[uluaz]

Question about the stock flybar paddles.. Is it ok to leave the stickers off. Or will leaving them off cause some "air turbulence".

[Finless]

You MUST have the stickers or the paddles wont work properly at all....

Bob

[InsomniaZZZ]

First off, great videos, Finless - I had a blast watching them and I learned quite a few new things.

I'd like to share with ya'll two points/tips that I encountered during my build:

The thrust bearings in the blade grips are a PITA. I spend nearly an hour getting them set correctly. There's not only the difference of inner diameter, but the outer diameter is also different (by a hair - but just enough to not nicely fit into the blade grip). You might also notice that the inner washer (term?) has a very distinct, sharp edge - whereas the outer washer is slightly beveled/rounded off. When inserting the innner washer, this sharp edge is going to act like a knife and scratch/cut the blade grips. The shavings resulting will obviously be in the wrong spot (between thrust bearing and outer radial bearing) and cause all sorts of problems: make sure to remove any shavings and carefully slide it back in. You may also notice, when looking into the grips, that at the seat of the thrust bearing, there's a tiny amount of more plastic. One more thing that will make it hard to insert the inner washer.

Once I had both grips on the spindle and mounted on the head, I could notice that the spindle screw in one of the bearings was slightly more visible that the other (sticking out). Pulling hard on both grips (like the blades would do during rotation) lead to a audible "snap", when the thrust bearing finally settled on top of the radial bearing.

In the end, as Finless repeats many times, you'll need to have an assembly with nice smooth grips, no binding whatsoever - in doubt, take it apart and inspect each piece carefully to find what's going on.

The other point had to do with the bell crank and the washers: LOL - Finless, you pointed out you had an extra washer - my bag was a washer short!

Ideally, during this step you should have 6 washers total: two regular ones that go between the screw and the outer bellcrank and 4 thin ones (two 0.5mm and two 0.2mm) that go on the inside of the bellcrank. The thin ones help you get the correct distance of the bellcrank and the bearing. I think it is up to the builder to choose the 0.5mm or the 0.5mm+0.2mm combo version - just make sure that there's a nice, non-binding gap between the cranks and the bearings. In my bag however, I was missing one of the outer washers (5.5mm OD, 3mm ID). If that happens to you as well, go and open the "spare parts" bag (each Align kit comes with one) and find what you're missing there... do not assemble without proper washers just to continue with the build.

That's it for now, diving into servo setup next...

./J

PS: Sorry for the WallOfText.

[uluaz]

InsomniaZZZ
I am building a 600 kit too and ran into the similar problem with the thrust bearings and the plasic grips. I encountered the same problem with the races cutting into the plastic. Finally got it smooth after removing excess plastic. Almost another good reason to get metal grips :) .

Another build question. Regarding the tail output shaft and plastic gear for belt. What is holding the plastic gear onto the shaft. I don't see a pin. Is it just glued on or is there a spline on the shaft. I guess question I am asking is do I need to upgrade to the metal gear/shaft that align sells.

[Finless]

It is just glued with splines and I suggest highly you get the metal pulley upgrade.

Bob

[uluaz]

Thanks Finless, I will definatley order the metal tail upgrade. By the way, excellent built videos, as always good job.

[steve1428]

Thanks for putting these video's together Bob.

With your help I was able to get my 450, and now my 600 in the air.

BTW
I noticed that if you used one more spacer on the bell crank pivot, it gives a very smooth action with no end play at all.

I also notice that it's easy to be fooled into thinking those align servo nuts are tightly butted against the frame, it's easy to be fooled into thinking it's tight because the clearance on the spacers is so tight, same with the raptor clips.

Lastly, I had to develop a very light touch when threading the ball joints into plastic lever arms, I split several of them untill I figured it out, you have to be very carefull not to come close to bottoming out. I had to replace some with metal parts as a result of ruining the plastic ones.

Thanks again
Steve

[geerbangr]

The new site design is cool and all but every time you click on one of bobs vids you get redirected to the site main page !!!!

[nitroplanes]

I just started to build my 600 and under step one, the larger ID go in to the blade grip after the washer but it will not fit and sit flat. Has anyone run into this issue b4?

[nitroplanes]

This is what I notice. On the manual, Larger ID saids THIN but it's not.

The Larger ID is actually the thick piece and the smaller ID is actually the thin piece. Please help!