Trex 600 Build Videos will be here:

[MariusArgona]

Bob,

Not only the flybar length has changed from previous version to the current version but the linkage rods dimension specified in the manual are also different. For example, the smallest linkage rods (between the grips and the seesaw) must have a space of two millimeters while in your vids it's one millimeter.
Between the washer and the seesaw, the space specified for the linkage rod is 37mm. Apparently in yours, it's 38mm. etc..

Any idea why Align decided to make those small changes?

M.

[Finless]

Any idea why Align decided to make those small changes?

NO CLUE! and I bet when you do set up you will still wind up about the same as I show in my vids too!

Bob

[Bunter]

Hi

Again thanks for these vids, I'm watching the 600 series in preparation for building a 450 and I have a small question about the motor and pinion video. In it you describe finding the high spot and low spot on the main gear. Which plane are you referring to? Although exagerated do you mean that the imperfections in the profile of the main gear mean that it is like an cam, (which is what I think) or is it the other dimension your talking about?

Also you mention that at the low point there should be backlash and that there should still be a tiny amount of backlash at the highpoint. Is backlash the same as play? So for the high point you mean that you should just be able to rotate the main gear a tiny amount without it turning the motor pinion?

Sorry for the basic questions, I just want to be sure I've understood correctly.

Cheers

Bill

[Manol]

Hi.
I searched for the DX7 setup for the T-rex 600, and can't find any, please help, any link ? I have read that FBob made some setup videos for this radio, tried a link mentioned back but this leads to a dead link.
Thanx.

[Finless]

I did not make the video for the DX7 but Jermo made a video. It is listed in my forum here.

Bob

[scalci]

Bob, do you have a setup video of the JR 9x setup, with your build video's?

[Finless]

Bob, do you have a setup video of the JR 9x setup, with your build video's?

Nop sorry I do not. One of these days I will do a 9X setup but I will have to be given a loaner radio.

Bob

[Manol]

Bob, I need help, I am a newbie in the T-Rex and DX-7 (in large electric and kit helis, not to mention programable radios, jumping from a Blade CP and a Honey Bee King II) I have the DX-7 and installing the receiver I found it comes with it's own battery, does this mean I can use this battery and discard the BEC and Lipo that came with the combo in a T-rex 600 CF?
Thank You

[Finless]

Well you can use that but it is heavier than the lipo. Also it is a 4.8 cell nicad so the lower voltage will make the servos slower. Oh and also you might not get as many flights between charges either. But yes you can do that if you want. My preference would be the lipo and BEC myself as the BEC has a guage on it to show when it is time to charge.

Bob

Bob

[Manol]

Great info, Bob. Thank you very much, I will use the Lipo and BEC.

[xStatiCa]

My new GF (G10, fiberglass) e 600 kit came with G10 servo straps. They are pretty thick(same as frame thickness) which causes a problem for the included screws for the 2 front cyclic servos. With the plastic spacers in place the screws only go half way into the plastic end plate that holds the servo on. Considering that the first portion of the plastic end plate is concave to start the screw it gives the screw even less threading. Without the spacers the screws are the perfect length for the rear cyclic servo but for alignment on my setup and servo touching issues the spacers are needed for the front two cyclic servos(DS8717 servos). I am using the brass eyelets on the servos since this is G10 I shouldn't have to worry about RF issues as mentioned in this thread... I have a spektrum system too so that helps regardless.

The eyelets do not let the servo grommets compress as much I have a feeling and I suspect the raptor servo straps or using washers without brass eyelets would solve the problem too. I really like the idea of the eyelets keeping the rubber from compressing too much though.

Regardless it would have been nice if the screws were just 1 or 2 mm longer.

I guess it is off to Home Depot and True Value to look for self taping longer screws tomorrow that will work.

[Finless]

DONT use the brass eyelets!!!! I am sure your problem will be gone. I bet using the eyelets you have way too much servo wobble anyway. There is no reason to use the eyelets man trust me!

Bob

[xStatiCa]

I pulled the eyelets out and it let the rubber grommets compress a little more but it is still not enough to go all the way through with the spacer in there. The end of the screw ends up only going about 75% of the way into the plastic end plate that holds the servos on. I don't trust it enough to fly that way so I still plan to find some longer screws from a hardware store.

[sky-t]

Hi, I just quickly would like to jump in, can i use ceramic grease on the thrust bearings and everything else? I can also get valvoline car grease what should i use, i have a little ceramic grease and plentu car grease?
would oil rather than grease be better for some parts, mainshaft, tailshaft?

update: This is what the valvoline grease container says: "Bentonite based non-melt grease for extreme high temperature" (valvoline X all grease) Will this be fine? (if this is overkill i can always just use a little instead of more for a less resisting effect?

Thanks

[Finless]

I think that will work. You dont need high temp grease but it may work fine.

Bob

[sky-t]

Good to have a reply from you Bob, thanks, i am about to start my very first trex 600 build and your videos will be invalubale, is there anything that have changed since the release of the t-rex regarding construction or parts that i should be aware of?

I think i have the latest version cf combo kit with the XL motor.

Thanks again.

ST

[Finless]

Not much has changed really.... My vids should be exact.
You may have gotten the thrusted tail grips so just check that they are put together right and lubed.

Bob

[sky-t]

Thanks Bob, I think i'll start tomorrow when i'm fresh (not that i really am after work, i'm just fooling myself, though it seems like i want to do so many things at once on weekends and it's actually making me tired, instead of a weekend that should be meant for resting :) Thank you i will look at the tail gtips, if they are already assembled i assume it should be fine, i have not had an overlook of all the parts yet, all i can say is that everything seems real big in comparison to my 450, that does make me smile.

Cheers.

[Mercuriell]

if they are already assembled i assume it should be fine

Dangerous assumption ! - Trust NO One ('cept Bob of course) - worth at least a trial of unscrewing the end grip bolts make sure they're Loctite'd - most are a few aren't

[Finless]

Yes and thats what I meant! TAKE IT APART and check that it is assmebled correctly! I reccomend anything pre-assembled to be taken aprt and checked for locktite etc.

Bob

[sky-t]

Thanks to both of you, i will do so!

[Cobham]

FANTASTIC build videos - if only I had found them before....

Hi - Just joined and starting my second TRex 600 build. I sadly found most of the problems you reported in my first build either during or after the build. Hopefully I will do a better job this time. Just wish I had found your videos before. They are great. Many thanks for doing them :noteworthy .

Keep up the good work helping all us feeble idiots who always seem to put the wrong screw in the wrong place at the wrong time...:o but dont realize till the first crash.:roll:

[groundeater]

Many thanks to Super Bob!
:kiss

[ties]

My receiver battery is 2S (7.4 volt). My flight battery is 6S and has of course a balancer plug.

So, in principe I have 7.4 volt from my flight battery by using a plug to the balancer. Then I could leave the receiver battery away.

Has anyone tried that?

I see three sources of trouble (and I am sure there are more which I do not see):

1. The two lower cells of my flight battery empty faster (my estimate is 6 minutes at 3 ampere which leads to about 300mAh. I think my balancer can handle this cell discharge difference during recharging. When I remember correctly the balancer can sink 150mA which would take 2 hours to charge the unbalanced battery.

2. The balancer cables (leads) on the battery should carry 3 ampere and maybe 6 ampere peak without dropping too much voltage. I could check this on the ground with heavy servo action from the sticks.

3. Now my greatest fear: NOISE from the motor and ESC coupled to the flight battery and hence through the ALIGN 3A BEC and to the RECEIVER. It could turn out very expensive (repair time and parts) when the NOISE affects the radio control -> CRASH. Additionally, a ferrite ring for the cable from the battery to the BEC could be used.

Experience? thoughs? adwise?

Ties

[Mercuriell]

Interesting idea Ties and good example of lateral thinking - certainly the source voltage from the balancer taps of your main pack would run your regulator. My experience with logging servo current on a 600 size heli is that it usually drains around 150 maH for a flight and runs around 1.1A on average with peak ~2.8A - as you say your balancer would cope with the slight imbalance of voltage after a flight.

I for one would worry about noise from the ESC which is impractical to filter out with ferrite rings and also if during a heavy motor current draw the pack voltage would drop and reset the Rx - Spektrum sensitive to this. You could maybe use it as a source of system redundancy by wiring a taps output in parallel with the Rx battery. Anyway only one way to find out if it works but it could be a costly experiment for the sake of a $30 2S lipo!