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leapfrog
12-09-2006, 02:32 AM
Man! The Align CF blades rule! I had a delivery when I got home... unboxed a set of the Aligns and threw them on the balancer. Perfect. No kidding, not even a mm difference on CG (not bad for a 600mm set) and the weights were right on. I love the CF stripe and the Align tag on the root. I pulled the TT CFs off... and hooked 'em up. Out to the back yard... it was cold... but the birdie flew just great. I guess you knew that already... Big fun.

Finless
12-09-2006, 03:10 AM
Welcome to the club! :thumbup:
YEP those blades rock!

Bob

avatar71
12-10-2006, 09:30 PM
As mentioned, in the drawing on page 12....

re. the comment about the up or down orientation of the motor mount.

dont' know if this has been resolved but, I believe that the grooves in the motor mount are to facilitate cooling through air flow, not conductance...

BarnOwl
12-11-2006, 03:47 AM
So the issue is still unresolved: What is better: Having the mount with the grooves up or down? I see Trextuning also has the mount with the grooves down.
Somehow it makes sense to me to have the grooves up: Heat is transported by conductivity through the flat metal surface of the plate and dispersed in the air by the grooves on top (Bigger surface and IN the down wash).

avatar71
12-11-2006, 07:34 AM
yes, that makes sense but I think that the flat side down would tend to seal off the vent holes

BarnOwl
12-11-2006, 07:56 AM
I didn't think of that one but it would certainly be a VERY good reason to mount the grooves down. Good, now I don't have to take it apart again! :lol:

Finless
12-11-2006, 11:51 AM
YES YES YES... Grooves DOWN!

Bob

r.j.models
12-15-2006, 04:11 PM
i though deans conectors were only upto 40 amps?

Finless
12-16-2006, 11:45 AM
Everyone I know has been running deans with no problems EXCEPT they do wear when plugging them in as the initial spark eats on them. After about 100 flights I replaced mine.

Bob

Crash-N-Burn
12-26-2006, 03:25 PM
Finless, I have started to build my first 600 and followed your vid's everything went perfect until..... the install of the elevator linkage. After the head install on the vid yours mysteriously appeared :shock: The book and the vid's do not cover the proper length to make it. Being a newbie to the sport I dont want to fall short on the build. any info would be great.

Thanks

Finless
12-26-2006, 03:45 PM
The link to the swash for elevator should be the same length as the other servos! All the geometery is the same. If these 3 links arent the same then go back amd make sure all the servo arms are 90 and the bell cracks are all level.

Bob

Crash-N-Burn
12-26-2006, 04:10 PM
Thanks for the quick reply. I did make it the same but was not sure. Now I have to pick out the right servos next. I did pick up a GY401. Once I finish the 600 build and trimmed it out I want to make it into a electric "Airwolf" if I can, something slow and stable.. NON 3D :wink:

ozA600cf
12-29-2006, 05:09 AM
Finless, My wife got me a 600cf for christmass and being the first choper I have ever built it has been interesting to say the least. I came across your video today and they have been great :noteworthy I am using a Spektrum DX7 with DS821 servos and a GY401. On the Elevator servor do the arms need to be parallel with the side of the frame as well as being 90% to the servo horn?

Finless
12-29-2006, 05:16 AM
Of course! All servos need to be 90 and then all bell cranks need to be 90 and LEVEL to the swash. If you did this right, the 3 links to the swash should all be the same length and the swash should look perfectly level... 1 turn believe it or not is about 2mm and noticable!

Bob

ozA600cf
12-29-2006, 05:36 AM
Thanks for the quick reply. Understand in regards to swash plate what I am concerened with is the linkage arms between the elevevator lever and the sevor are not parallel with the side frame to get them parallel i either have to move the elevevator lever closer to the side or put a spacer on the lingage arm to move the ball out further?

Finless
12-29-2006, 05:49 AM
OK understand... THEY SHOULD BE PARALLEL! Dont forget to see the manual and my video which REQUIRES you to trim 2mm from the links from the servo to the elevator bell crank to allow them to fit!

Bob

ozA600cf
12-29-2006, 05:58 AM
Thanks Mate back to the table and on with the build

Finless
12-29-2006, 06:04 AM
Fair Dinkum!

Bob

ozA600cf
12-29-2006, 06:05 AM
As we say here in OZ "what the bloody hell are you doing up at 6.04am"?

Finless
12-29-2006, 06:26 AM
You didnt do your time calc's right! it is 3:20 AM right now :)

What am I doing up.... WORKING!

Bob

skid
12-29-2006, 08:08 PM
Bob, I think you dont have your time zone set correctly in your profile. Your post time says 7:26 and you say it's 3:20. Just a thought. :dontknow

rdlohr
12-29-2006, 08:35 PM
No, his post time get adjusted to your time zone. For instance, it tells me Bob posted at 6:26 AM.

skid
12-29-2006, 11:17 PM
OOPS .... I get it now :oops:

rdlohr
12-29-2006, 11:37 PM
On step one where you put the bearing and such in the grips, the grips are bowed in so they won't easily slip in. You got any good tricks for spreading the grips?

ozA600cf
12-30-2006, 06:10 AM
Need help I am having trouble setting up the rudder. I am using Spectrum DX7 with input select on Gear / Gear the Gyro is a GY401 with a 9254 servo. I have watched Bob excellent video and understand the process. What is happening when I turn the BEC on and the stick is in center the rudder is not centered is it will not go back to center even I move the stick and see it is centered. Also it makes a constant sound I can not tell if it is the servo or the gyro. Any help would be great.