Trex 600 build help

[tcast305]

Hi all,

I'm puting together the head on my trex 600, and have a question on setup 1 on the manual. When placing the washer then the thrust bearing into the blade grip, should the washer go all the way touching the bearing inside (already installed)? I'm asking because my washer is all the way in, however the thurst bearing does not go all the way in. It stops at a lip inside the blade grip? Is this normal?

Please help

[Finless]

Yes this is normal. See my build vids and while I dont point this out the thrust bearings are right on the edge of the plastic in the grips. Very different than other helis I have built. Be sure to grease the bearing and have it so the "cup" of the ball race is pointing to the head not the grips.

Bob

[tcast305]

Yes this is normal. See my build vids and while I dont point this out the thrust bearings are right on the edge of the plastic in the grips. Very different than other helis I have built. Be sure to grease the bearing and have it so the "cup" of the ball race is pointing to the head not the grips.

Bob

Hi Bob,

Mine end cap of the thrust bearing sticks above the edge. Thats what I'm asking about. Should the washer which goes in first press against the bearing that is pre installed into the grip? And then should the first end cap of the thrust bearing touch the washer all the way in the grip? I seem to have like a lil lip inside the blade grip that stops the end cap from touching the washer inside the grip.

Thanks.

[Russ McC]

I do understand your question and yes the washer and thrust bearing need to go all the way down against the bearing, I needed to slide the spindle into the thrust bearing and give it a little taping to seat it. If you left it out at that lip in the grip then the bolt would have to push it in to place if the bolt where long enough. I’m sure you know but be damn sure to put the thrust bearing races in, in the proper order!!

[tcast305]

I do understand your question and yes the washer and thrust bearing need to go all the way down against the bearing, I needed to slide the spindle into the thrust bearing and give it a little taping to seat it. If you left it out at that lip in the grip then the bolt would have to push it in to place if the bolt where long enough. I’m sure you know but be damn sure to put the thrust bearing races in, in the proper order!!

I kinda understand what your staying. I can get the washer to the bearing that is preinstalled with no problems. However, the end cap for the thrust bearing does seem to go all the way down. How hard did you have to tap to get it in?

I am putting the larger dia first, it seems to get suck in the lip inside the blade grip. Please help, it kinda sucks I'm stuck on the first step.

[Finless]

The screw for the spindle will PULL the bearings all in tight so if you feel uncomfortable taping it down, just start assembling and when you tighten the spindle it will pull everything together.

Bob

[tcast305]

The screw for the spindle will PULL the bearings all in tight so if you feel uncomfortable taping it down, just start assembling and when you tighten the spindle it will pull everything together.

Bob

I was able to push the end cap in first with the spindle shaft, it went right in with a lil pressure.

Question, on the flybar cage. I noticed that when I put it together and have the fly bar installed, there is a lil play between the cage and the seesaw. I've had this happen on my trex 450, I just squeezed the flybar cage ends a lil, then I tighten the grub screws so that its holds the flybar in place, and no more play. So I leave it like that?

[Finless]

Yep.... This is what I show in my build videos too.

Bob

[tcast305]

Yep.... This is what I show in my build videos too.

Bob

Ohh ok, I didn't see it in your step 3 video of the trex 600. I just finshed that step.. So its normal if you just screw the grub screws in on the flybar cage for there to be some play between it and the seesaw (on the trex 600)?

Thanks.

[tcast305]

I found another issue, one of my washout control arms, didn't have a collar preinstalled (3x4.9x1.5mm). So when I was screwing it started to bind. I took it apart and found no collar inside :-(..

What do I do now? I tried using the collar (the one used for the head block to the blade grips, its 3x5x1.5mm)from the trex 450se, however it still is tight because its actually a lil thinner 1.48mm vs 1.50mm of the right one.

I'm out of luck??

[Finless]

Contact assurance RC and ask for Noel.
www.alignrcusa.com

Bob

[tcast305]

I got it to work.. the collar did work, I just took out the one that was correctly installed put into the one with the missing one, and put the trex 450se collar into the other one. When both screws tight, both washout control arms work fine, no bind, free moving.

You think its ok Bob?

[Finless]

If it is not binding AND your sure the collar is trapping the inner races of the bearings then I would say YES it is OK.

Bob

[tcast305]

If it is not binding AND your sure the collar is trapping the inner races of the bearings then I would say YES it is OK.

Bob

I does seem to be riding on the inner race. I did contact Noel at alignrcusa, and they will try to ship monday a set as they dont have them yet, and he said if the look the same, to use the one from the 450se.

I have another issue (is this kit cursed). I've moved up to making the links for the head, and one of the 48mm links is a lil warped, it doesn't spin true, its not very bad, but its not true. Can I still use it as long if the length's are the same?

[Finless]

You mean the rod is warped or the plastic link itself?

Bob

[tcast305]

You mean the rod is warped or the plastic link itself?

Bob

The steel rod, it a little warped at one end (you can tell by spinning it), just very little, I straightened it some. Both rods with links are about the same length (no difference compared to a perfectly true rod) .11-.12 mm difference. I emailed alignrcusa and they said that should be fine, since its just a steel rod with threads and they are not all made perfectly true.

As long as the rods with the links are same lengths it should be an issue right?


Also I found that the linkage from the flybar cage and washout arms is at an angle. I looked at your video and it looks the same. Its different than a 450se with is straight right?

Thanks.

[tcast305]

Another problem, (I'm sounding like a broken record) One of my radius arms (that screws into the washout arm) is cracked where it goes into the ball. :arggg: So it just pops off the ball and its not safe.. This sucks no parts anywhere. :arggg:

[Finless]

I would not worry about the ron and just try to straighten it.

So the radius arm ball socket is cracked? NOPE dont fly with that for sure!

Bob

[tcast305]

I would not worry about the ron and just try to straighten it.

So the radius arm ball socket is cracked? NOPE dont fly with that for sure!

Bob

Yeap, its CRACKED. I put it on the right way, its just like the plastic links that one side is bigger than the other. I guess it cracked when I push it on. Bad luck I guess.

It's still gonna take me a while to finsh building it and puting the electronics it in. I can still setup everything then when I get the part replace it quickly however it still sucks..

Bob, you wouldn't happen to have a radius arm for the 600 laying around :-D (I'll pay extra for it :-) )..

[Finless]

Bob, you wouldn't happen to have a radius arm for the 600 laying around :-D (I'll pay extra for it :-) )..


If I did I would SURELY send it to you.

Sorry,
Bob

[gordohigh]

tcast305, If you can take a picture of it, and mark it with dimensions, I will check out the 2 gasser heli's I have and see if they(the part), are close. At a glance they look to be very similar.

It wouldn't be the first time I found a part like this off of another heli that worked. I just need a good shot of it with all the main dimensions, If you care to try it?

If it looks like it would work, I can send it to you in the mail today...... :D

[gordohigh]

ok, i took one off, and the overall length is about 28mm. From the pin holes square down to the bottom, so it is parallel to the center of the ball hole is approx 20.5mm. but it also looks like you could redrill the pin holes shorter if you had to. The width at the top where the pin holes are, (outside of plasitic to outside is 9.8mm Inside width in that same area is 5.5mm. Distance from pin holes down to start of 45deg. angle on the short side is about 9.6mm. On the long side it is about 11.3mm, from center of pin hole.

Keep in mind That thesedimensions could be slightly off as it is kind of hard to measure this thing because it is offset, and my cheap plastic digital calipers tend to slide on the plastic. If they are very close, I could even send you both of them, that way you could adjust your other 2 links and be good.

Hey its only an idea, cause I imagine parts will be hard to come by for a while...... :D

Edit, I redid the measurements because I didn't notice my calipers were not zeroed out. Redone and fairly accurate....

[tcast305]

ok, i took one off, and the overall length is about 28mm. From the pin holes square down to the bottom, so it is parallel to the center of the ball hole is approx 20.5mm. but it also looks like you could redrill the pin holes shorter if you had to. The width at the top where the pin holes are, (outside of plasitic to outside is 9.8mm Inside width in that same area is 5.5mm. Distance from pin holes down to start of 45deg. angle on the short side is about 9.6mm. On the long side it is about 11.3mm, from center of pin hole.

Keep in mind That thesedimensions could be slightly off as it is kind of hard to measure this thing because it is offset, and my cheap plastic digital calipers tend to slide on the plastic. If they are very close, I could even send you both of them, that way you could adjust your other 2 links and be good.

Hey its only an idea, cause I imagine parts will be hard to come by for a while...... :D

Edit, I redid the measurements because I didn't notice my calipers were not zeroed out. Redone and fairly accurate....

I was thinking that too. I was going to take it to a lhs that stocks alot of heli parts and compare. Alignrcusa is farely confident that they are getting parts next week. Thats for the idea. I'm going to finsh building my 600 since I still have alot to do. I can still get everything setup, put a flight is out of the question.

I'll post pics when I'm done.

[gordohigh]

OK, but you are more than welcome to have the two that I have I am from vero so only about 21/2 hours up the coast. If you want them, say the word and Ill stick them in an envelope and send.....I can only imagine how bummed you were when that broke.

Speaking of breaking, I was putting together a stock logo 10 for a friend, and when I tried to snap the link on the anti-rotation pin ball, it broke right off. I drilled it out and used a threaded link rod and screwed it tight together. It was strong but I decided to just go ahead and buy him the alu swash, so he came out smellin like a rose.

Some of these plastic parts have cold joints on them when they were injection molded. I know that the first few pieces of a new run, before the mold reaches temp can be very easy to break. In fact quality control should never ship the first couple of a run because this is a common problem. (I see a lot of this in some of the products that we use in our business.

Whatever you do, Good Luck ....... :D

[dennis@deetee]

tcast305................

We had one of our customers that had the same problem with one of the radius arms cracking while trying to snap it on with his fingers. Obviously, that is not acceptable. Our machine here went together very well, with no problems.

We E Mailed Align RC USA on this matter, and they sent him new ones out directly to him right away. Andy at Align RC USA immediately called Align in Taiwan to resolve the problem for new kits coming into the USA in about 10 days or so. Thats called customer service.

If you call them, most likely, they will do the same for you.

Call them on Monday. Here is the part #, and the phone #:

Part# H60073

Phone #: 562 926 5357

Ask for Noel or Andy.

.........Dennis