View Full Version : Pred metal head tie bar spacers
tailboom
07-10-2006, 09:24 PM
Well I have my Predator metal rotor head, and noticed that the tie bar spacers do not fit (too long). Does anyone know the right part number for the correct size? :?:
Rodney
07-14-2006, 12:39 PM
Not sure what part you are looking for.
DavidH
07-14-2006, 01:33 PM
Rodney,
I would guess he is referring to
http://centuryheli.com/support/manuals/CN130X_PREDATOR/predator_manual.pdf
picture # 3
#HI3167G
Tie Bars &
Spacers
Another guess would be he has the spacer on outer side of bearing, instead of between the bearing and the headblock <G>
David
Rodney
07-14-2006, 01:55 PM
I havent used those parts in awhile. But he must have somthing assembled wrong as when I did use them they worked very well. I am running the metal seesaw assy. now.
tailboom
07-14-2006, 02:35 PM
Im using the metal seesaw and head, but the spacer that goes between the seesaw and head (HI3176G) is too long. It fits fine with the other head, but the metal head is thicker, I measured them both and there is a difference. I double checked everything and I have not assembled it wrong. This is the all metal Predator upgrade head. :? The other head is a metal Raven head, but the spacer part number is the same (according to Century). The seesaw bearings do not snug down to the seesaw with these spacers.
SteveH
07-14-2006, 03:00 PM
Tailboom,
I hate to say it, but I've had the trouble also. Don't know why, but some of the rotor head hubs are not the same size. I very carefully reduced the length of the spacers against the side of a disc sander until the fit was correct.
What you have to do is measure the discepancy with a micrometer, and take half that much off each spacer.
tailboom
07-14-2006, 03:26 PM
I was thinking the same but Ill use a drill press and grit block for evenness, I was hoping there was a part I could just buy, but I can fix it the hard way too. Thanks Steve. :wink:
Rodney
07-14-2006, 03:43 PM
I had the opposite problem, when I tightened mine down it bound up the bearings.
I have to add a sanded flybar shim washer to each side of mine. And I used a shoulder bolt and cut it so the threads just went to the inside edge of head block for the most thread contact, check them often as they seem to loosen when flown hard alot.