Another Kasama build from Sweden :)

[Vantskruv]

I've come great far with the build, and I'm a little late with build pics on this forum. Here you go (sorry for bad quality of the first list of pics).

The box arrived! :)
http://pici.se/pictures/OsWOVdbBd.jpg


Nice bags with pieces from box 1:
http://pici.se/pictures/nxMDwLdFt.jpg


Very nice quality of the bottomplate and the enginemount. 12 O-rings is placed between the enginemount and the bottomplate to prevent vibrations and resonance.
http://pici.se/pictures/tGFIvLgiC.jpg


What can you do with a candle-ornament, methylated spirit and some screws? ;)
http://pici.se/pictures/uNBOdxFLp.jpg


Bottom of the helicopter is complete. I think it will be very easy to disassemble it from the rest of the parts of the helicopter when you need to service. You only need to take out four screws and also the start coupling to get service-access to the engine and clutch.
http://pici.se/pictures/PcReKcCEf.jpg



Yep, with the cause of clumpsy fingers and exhaustion, I made a fool of myself. I was screwing the pinion on the clutch bell with success, but I wanted some loctite on so I screwed it out and all went bad!
http://pici.se/pictures/eCEIvjNLI.jpg

I contacted Kasama, and with a great support and customer-servive, he told me he will send me a new clutchbell and pinion ASAP! Very nice and friendly! Many thanks to KASAMA! :noteworthy

[Vantskruv]

Here comes a picture of the tank. There are 4 connections, the above right goes to the fuel-intake, the above left goes to refueling, and the two bottom ones are actually united with each other. The left one is for depressuring and the right one is for pressurefeeding. Do you see the pressurefeeding-tube in the tank?
I've also installed a K&S Kinkless tube in the tank! :)
http://pici.se/pictures/XjTaszEJw.jpg


Now I've assembled the tank in the frame. It was quite hard as it use to be. Tried mounting the tank in the frame first and then the rubber-grommets, but that didn't work well. I tried pushing the tank-buckles with my fingers and then push the tank in, also didn't work. Instead I screwed the tank-cap off and angled the tank into the frame and that went well! Actually to screw the tank-cap off the tank was a harder job than mounting the tank on the frame first! :)
http://pici.se/pictures/CXoOGVvis.jpg


Here I've mounted the pinion with the bearing-house. This piece will be placed in the frame to drive the tail-shaft from the autorotation-gear. I was suprised the pinion was of steel. It was mounted with four set-screws on the shaft. The bearing-house was glided on to the shaft, and then the shaft-key which was fastened by two pinch-screws. Do you see the little piece to the right? This a adjusting-tool to adjust the bearing-house (with pinion) up and down. Very nice!
http://pici.se/pictures/xhAnixMuG.jpg


Here is the above piece mounted in the frame. To adjust the pinion up and down, you only need to loosen the bolts, and then adjust with the middle-screw. The pinion goes up and down without wiggling.
http://pici.se/pictures/CYSvfcdkE.jpg



An interesting thing about all the parts of the helicopter is that almost every piece have an identification-code carved on the surfaces. Indeed very nice! :)

[Vantskruv]

Here is a picture of the incredible nice CNC-made fan! The clutch is fastened with four screws on the fan. The starter-shaft is fastened on the engine-shaft (instead as in most helicopters on the clutchbell). The little O-ring is glided on the shaft and placed on the clutch, after that you glide on the clutch-bell with the pinion.
http://pici.se/pictures/TaSelfDSP.jpg


The above installed on the engine. Do you see the little O-ring? The clutch-bell bearing will rest on that.
http://pici.se/pictures/UFeEbFXdm.jpg


Now the engine is mounted on the motor-mount. The clutch-bell with pinion is glided on the starter-shaft.
http://pici.se/pictures/cxxytsadc.jpg


In front of the hamburger-bag in the freezer lies my autorotation-gear with a big metalshaft. The metalshaft was quite hard to put through the oneway-bearing of the maingear. Now it is quite easier when the metal has shrinked because of the cold.
http://pici.se/pictures/SpSnwedCD.jpg


Now the maingear and the autorotation-gear is assembled. The oneway-bearing feels like really nice quality and weighs much in the hand. The bearing is isolated with some sort of yellow plastic. Do you see the bearing-balls? :)
http://pici.se/pictures/idWBlzOTM.jpg


What's this? A havana-cigar?
http://pici.se/pictures/QgvbXzKjG.jpg


No, it actually was the mainrotor-shaft! Packaged with a nice antirust-paper (as many other parts) :). Above you see the black pinch-ring which you mount on top of the maingear. Through that, the autorotation-shaft (which goes through the oneway-bearing) and the mainrotor-shaft you put a lockpin through. Then you turn the pinch-ring anticlockwise to hold the pin inside and then you fasten the pinchring with a pinch-screw. Now the mainrotor-shaft is fastened on the maingear. This is a little different compared to fasten the mainrotor-shaft with a bolt and a locknut.
http://pici.se/pictures/MKnDYCQmT.jpg


Here you see the antirotation-bracket with the elevator-arm (which have 2 balls mounted on each side).
http://pici.se/pictures/IXSDsLmHj.jpg


Here is a picture of the very special bearinghouse for the starter-shaft. It is designed to flex between the frame-sides. The lower part of that bearinghouse (seen from above) is fastened by a bolt which goes through a bearing with a ball-joint and 2 nice fat spacers. In this part the bearing-house can move in any direction at the bolt-axis. Through a hole on the bearinghouse you can oil the bearings. The higher part (seen from above) the bearinghouse is fastened by special spacers with O-rings on both sides. Special instructions in the manual tells you how much to screw depending on which RPM you will fly with. :)
http://pici.se/pictures/MpIUAhofT.jpg


This a picture with engine, gears, fan-shroud and others assembled. Mainrotor-shaft has three bearingshouses, center and lower bearinghouse can be adjustable up and down, and they have also thrustbearings fitted. You lock the maingear between the center and lower bearingshouses. This is a little different compared to lock the mainrotor-shaft with a pinchring on top of the highest bearing.
The fan-shroud has a bigger opening at the bottom which makes it possible to slide the engine out without disassemble the shroud. Very user-friendly!
http://pici.se/pictures/nfTXOmZSD.jpg

[Vantskruv]

A nice picture of the canopy which my friend Jimmy has made, mounted where it feels best to be!
http://pici.se/pictures/VZFNyTJrU.jpg


I have to fix the governor-sensor.
http://pici.se/pictures/iGEsHdNZX.jpg


Throttle-servo and tail-servo installed. A shaft support is also installed for the pitch and aileron servos and also a mount for these servos.
http://pici.se/pictures/USglZBFEg.jpg


Now the fun starts! What do you think this will be after assemble?
http://pici.se/pictures/LyIbvNVVh.jpg


A nice servo-mount for the aileron and pitch!
http://pici.se/pictures/TGfZpjOWE.jpg


Here is the servo-mount placed in the helicopter. For each servo there is three round metalplates put together between the servo-arm and the shaft. Without damaging the servos the shaft will be able to flex, and probaly in a crash these metalplates will break and protect the servos. Very smart!
http://pici.se/pictures/EkZGWBGDV.jpg

http://pici.se/pictures/mGtEzuQuJ.jpg

[Vantskruv]

The elevator-servo is mounted. It's the same power-transfer as with the pitch and aileron servos with a shaft from the servo. The servo-mountings went a little angled, but I've straightened them up! :)
http://pici.se/pictures/trIdXMkpu.jpg


Next step is to assemble the parts for the rotorhead. I begin with the swash and the hub with the seesaw flybar. In the bag comes a tool. What do you think it can be for? :) On the hub it is carved Swiss 7075 (sorry you can't see it on the picture). I guess it is number telling which material it is made of. I found this about material 7075:
Commonly used in the manufacture of aircraft and other aerospace applications not requiring the corrosion resistance of Clad 7075.
Note aircraft and aerospace applications i in the sentence! :thumbup:
http://pici.se/pictures/MVTMBGMQH.jpg


Now the swash and the hub is mounted on the mainrotor-shaft. You can see a little bit what's carved on the hub. :) The eleavtor-ball on the swash has a bearing mounted which makes the swash move very nicely on the autorotation-bracket. The autorotation-bracket can be angled backward making it easy to place and remove the swashplate, withouth removing the autorotation-bracket.
http://pici.se/pictures/FICCjbJCl.jpg


Here you can see the tool I stated above in its right nature. The links are smart designed where on one end is clockwise threaded while and the other end is anticlockwise threaded (this is marked on the link which end is clockwise and anticlockwise). After the linkages are fitted on the helicopter you can finetune the length of the linkages by using the tool provided. The plastic ball-links are very, very nice. Hard to fit, but when they are placed they run very nicely on the balls.
http://pici.se/pictures/UgpbTwelw.jpg


Now it is time to assemble the bladegrips! They are very beautiful and nice! Do you see the small holes on the grips? They are drilled to make it possible to oil the bearings in the grips! Each damper is made of a cylinder with three carved tracks where you mount an O-ring for each track. Cheap and easy to change. Bearings was already assembled in the grips from box.
http://pici.se/pictures/sSgfTOrIi.jpg


The rotorhead is now assembled. There is two flybar rods to choose from, one with a length of 490mm and one with 520mm, I chose 520mm. :)
http://pici.se/pictures/AisrJvtZn.jpg


Next step is boom, tail and rudder-linkage.

[MaSt0RaS]

n1 you are very lucky:)