View Full Version : .50 OS or Electric
AZ ChopperCam
07-31-2006, 11:27 AM
affirmative. And when you spool up don't go slowly on the stick. slam it right up to mid stick and wait for it to catch up. If you go slow like you'd do with a gasser or nitro it'll jump around and scare ya. (as me how I found out)
dreslism
07-31-2006, 11:31 AM
Taylor,
Anyone flying electric you know that can help set you up? It is very confusing at first when setting this stuff up, and what DJ said last is something most don't realize. 100% on the esc is most likely not 100% on the stick by default.
The Phoenix ESC has a red light that will kick on when it sees full throttle.
This may only be at 3/4 stick position if you're going from 0-100, so you want to find out at what throttle curve % where the red light comes on for the ESC.
An easy way to do this is to setup a 0,50,50,50,50 throttle curve, then put your stick at mid, and slowly increase the 50% in your Tx until the red LED comes on, now you know you're at 100% output of the ESC. (do it with your blades off for safety until you have all your throttle and pitch curves set)
If the red light comes on at 75% on the throttle curve (like DJ's example), then you know you're at 100% ESC output. (Mine is like 77%))
Now you want to scale your throttle curve as a percentage of what you just found the max to be.
So if someone tells you they run a
Normal 0,50,95,95,95
Idle1 95,95,95,95,95
Idle2 95,95,95,95,95
Those numbers all need to be a percentage of the max throttle that you determined above. i.e the above numbers are not what you will enter into your Tx, you will take 50% of the number determined above and enter that, and then 95% of the number determined above and enter that.
You're crystal clear on this now right? :shock: :wink:
It will make more sense when you have everything in front of you.
You wrote the following:
The way I am reading this..... in the Normal flight mode... you're going from 0 throttle to 90% throttle in one step... while the pitch is presumably going from something like negative 5 degrees to zero... Which in my mind is going to give you a headspeed of a zillion RPM instantly....
Yeah 0-90 in one step will be touchy, it won't immediately jump from 0-90 unless you flip the collective very quickly.
I do 0,50,95,95,95 in normal.
Then at mid stick and above in normal, I am at my max headspeed I want.
Below midstick, the motor starts shutting down.
When you start it up, you can slowly feed in collective from 0 stick to mid stick as the engine winds up to max speed. The esc also has a startup speed setting as to how fast it will wind up, so it won't *jerk/kick* your heli with full power.
The latest CC firmware made this even better, so even if you did 0,90,90,90,90 and flicked the stick from full down to mid, the esc will spool up the motor based on the esc setting you programed. Before, the heli would jump and kick and you could strip gears. Now it is much better, but I still like the 0,50,90,90,90 as that hacker has some power to it.
Keep asking, you'll get it setup right.
dreslism
07-31-2006, 11:49 AM
affirmative. And when you spool up don't go slowly on the stick. slam it right up to mid stick and wait for it to catch up. If you go slow like you'd do with a gasser or nitro it'll jump around and scare ya. (as me how I found out)
Are you kidding me? :oops:
I used to get the jumping around, and thought it was just a very powerful motor as my other heli never did that, so I just dropped my curve to 0,40,95,95,95 and then it was not so jumpy on startup.
I'll have to try the slam. I guess it makes sense now as the ESC has a spool up speed and should just deal with it.
tcgliderguy
07-31-2006, 12:05 PM
Thanks Scott.... and DJ....
I'm starting to see where I'm going with this...... and Yes, DJ... I found out about the "Kick/Jerk" phenomenon. I'm not going to embarrass myself publicly with what happened when the Jerk got kicked...... but trust me, it wasn't pretty. :-(
I'll get back to you guys when the deadlines have subsided, and I'm back working on the Electro Tiger....
Thanks for the help!
-Taylor
GGoodrum
07-31-2006, 01:33 PM
We have been fighting CC for years to eliminate the "kick" they had programmed into their controller software, that was initially put in to get some long-forgotten motor to start spinning correctly. Now, there is a user programmable spoolup setting that will let the motor ramp up power nice and slow. You can now just put the stick in the middle position, select IDLE1 or 2 and then click off the Throttle Hold switch. :)
Here's what I normally do when I first setup a system. I start out with a flat curve, in IDLE 2 , at 100% on the transmitter. I then tach this, with the heli spinning up, but still on the ground. I set IDLE 1 to the same 100% flat "curve" initially, but then start dialing that down to the point that the h/s just starts to change. That's the "real" 100% point, not that it really matters all that much. Anyway, I keep lowering the number until I get the h/s I'm looking for, which in the case of the Raptor, is about 1650, down from about 1830 at 100%. I think in my current setup, that number is around 63 or 64%. For the NORMAL setting, I just match the upper half of the curve with htis setting. Here's an example:
NORMAL 0, 32, 64, 64, 64
IDLE 1 64, 64, 64, 64, 64
IDLE 2 100, 100, 100, 100, 100
For the most part, I just keep it on IDLE 1, start out with the stick at the midpoint (i.e. -- 0 pitch...), and turn off Throttle Hold.
-- Gary
GGoodrum
08-02-2006, 08:27 PM
One other tip when using the Throttle Hold to do autos with a CC controller. In order to keep the slow ramp up from happening if you want to recover from an auto, adjust the throttle hold curve to something other than 0 at the bottom end. What you also need to do is set the "Throttle Response" setting to "1", the lowest setting. This has no effect in Governor mode, but it will keep you from stripping gears when going from a low "idle" setting, back to the governed h/s.
I think doing this is a great idea for autos, but it probably means you need to start with the stick at zero, in NORMAL mode, and then either quickly move the sticks to the mid-point, or flip to IDLE 1.
-- Gary
cainebean
08-03-2006, 10:44 AM
What kind of tach are you using?
GGoodrum
08-03-2006, 11:29 AM
I'm using a small one, similar to this one: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXPT31&P=ML
-- Gary
Canada Goose
08-03-2006, 03:58 PM
Hope I can jump in here with a question. I am going the glow route to the same heli ($ reasons) and I see where a lot of folks have added extensions to the muffler to either the rear or down low away from any camera gear. Does this have any adverse effect on the engine, more back pressure etc?
Cheers
Mike
tcgliderguy
08-03-2006, 06:05 PM
An extension grafted onto the muffler doesn't create excess back pressure... as long as it is large enough in diameter. I used an old tail boom on my Tiger50/ O.S. .50 combo... and it worked fine. I rigged up a steel brace to support the tail boom... attached with a couple of stainless steel, screw type hose clamps, and a simple wire brace that supported the free end of the tail boom at the back end. Ugly as a mud fence, but it worked......
-Taylor
Ziggy2711
08-07-2006, 11:31 PM
Hey guys! My job has been keeping me a little busy lately but I'm glad to be posting again!
I've been working on my Emoli packs and have a couple questions. Keep in mind that I am not intelligent with wiring, etc.
1. When looking at the attached file (at the very bottom of the pdf), do i just chop off the 2 wires indicated with an "x" if building a 6S pack?
2. I need to get longer charger leads (black) for two of my packs. Can I just splice 12 gauge wire together to make it longer or do I have to purchase a new set with longer length.
Thanks for your help. I know I'm an idiot. :D
Ziggy
P.S. Gary, I got the correct shipment. Thanks!
Ziggy2711
08-07-2006, 11:36 PM
Oh yeah, I forgot to add the pdf file for my previous post. Also, what configuration should I build these? When using the two 6s packs, should I make one completely horizontal (flat) and then do a "3 against 3" configuration to fit where the fuel tank goes? Please advise.
Thanks!
Ziggy
Ziggy2711
08-11-2006, 12:06 AM
Anyone, please? :(
MLaBoyteaux
09-06-2006, 11:29 PM
Ok, I've ordered most of what I think I need to convert my Raptor to electric. I have a question though, after reading the thread, it seemed the A50-16S motor would be the way to go for 660mm blades. I'm planning on using the Prodigy 10s5000 batteries.
Gary is out of the 16S motors but suggested the 12L would be better because of the higher ambient temperatures here in Texas. Ok, no problem, but, what's the difference? Do I still use the 85T/10T Raptor 50 gearing or the Raptor 30 gearing (I have both of them). So which one is the best for an AP application using the 660 mains and the Prodigy 10s packs?
askman
09-07-2006, 12:38 AM
12L is bigger motor and should handle more power with ease. (especially if you plan on stretching it. 378 vs 355kv. weighs 3oz more than 16S.
so, 16S will give 1600 rpm theoretical max while 1500 for 12L. (in real term, you will actually be about 100rpm lower)
hmm, interesting
AZ ChopperCam
09-07-2006, 12:49 AM
on the 660's I am sending you I would really go with the 16S on 8.5:1 gearing. You'll get the higher headspeed you need. especially with the Prodigy packs.
The 660's are happy at about 1600-1700 RPM right where a 16S will put you.
MLaBoyteaux
09-07-2006, 09:13 AM
I ordered a 16S, but he shipped me a 12L because he's out of the 16S. I found one somewhere else so I'm going to send the 12L back.
I hope to have it in the air in a couple of weeks!
I've got a 12L I haven't run yet. Took me a bit to get the knack with the deans connectors, but I've got 10s worth charged and balanced to ~ 4.175.
I'm assuming the 8.5 is the way I'd want to go with the 12L and a super-stretch (full length Ergo boom - planning on spinning 700s with it)....right?
(All the better if not since I already have an 86/9 pair...but I think even the 700s will be happier at 1500-1600 vs 1400-1500 which is where I'd guess they'd be on 86/9....
dreslism
09-11-2006, 09:22 AM
Gary,
I have the A50-12s with raptor 30 gearing and Titan from you setup for AP.
Currently running TT600's on it.
I am stretching it and will put 660's on it.
I have 10s, 11s or 12s FP packs.
Do you think the A50-12s can handle the 660's at all, or do I HAVE to go to the A50-16s?
Thanks