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peter84
07-27-2006, 11:15 AM
Here's what happened this morning.

Completed the range check on my Intrepid gasser, started the engine and let it idle for thirty seconds before preparing to lift off for the first flight of the day. Slowly raise the collective, looking for the heli to get light on it's skids when suddenly, the heli does a quick 180 on me and sits facing me with the blades still engaged. As I moved to the tail of the heli I am seeing no response to my radio commands - the main blades are spinning as the clutch is still engaged. As I watch the rotor disc is moving around the full extremes of the cyclic limits. I notice that the swash plate moving through the full cyclic limits about once every couple of seconds.

At this point I am ensuring that I and others are well clear of the heli. I tried turning off my TX to get the fail safe to engage, but to no avail. It was as though the power had been lost to the heli.

There I am standing helpless watching my pride and joy sit squirming on it's U/C, as I have about 4 degrees of negative pitch at bottom stick in normal mode, thinking this is going to be a long thirty minutes until the fuel runs out. At least it is a nice even engine note!

Thankfully fellow club member Wayne, found a 10' long 1" diameter piece of plastic water pipe in the club house (why do we have water pipe in the club house but no water....????). I was able to maneuver the pipe of the muffler exit and by blocked the end of the pipe with my thumb caused enough exhaust back pressure to finally kill the engine. By this time I was a so grateful to have stopped the engine without harm to anyone. The only damage, apart form my frayed nerves, was to the standard white tail blades that got chewed up when the hit the tail fin that had got pushed into the path of the blades when the heli landed after the 180.

So what was wrong? We had correctly deduced that the heli had lost power to the radio, what I found was that the radio switch (Hobbico heavy duty switch with only 12 flights on it - as this is a new heli) was in about mid position. I can only assume that I had not fully turned the switch on, hence the mid position, and that this was fine for a radio check but as soon as there was any sustained vibration - my 30 second run up, that the switch vibrated off.

So my question is; what alternative switch would you suggest and/or better operating procedures?

DebianDog
07-27-2006, 11:28 AM
That happen on my Raptor 60 one time, I used an umbrella to plug the exhaust :lol: . ALL my helis now have Duralite heavy duty switches and regulators.

Whirly-Girl
07-27-2006, 11:52 AM
On helis, I run nothing but Duralite HD switches and regulators. If it fails, it fails ON!

Jeanette

flyinfool
07-27-2006, 12:59 PM
In this type of a case the fail safe switch may not have helped.
Since the switch was some where in the middle it could just have easily gone to either the on or off position, if the switch vibrated to the off position the fail safe switch would not see that as a failure and would still shut off power.

I had this same scenario once where the power went off with a Duralite HD switch and regulator just as the heli hit around 17-1800 rpm, fortunately there was still negative 1 or 2*. I just beat feet to get behind the cyclone fence, (Followed quickly by everyone else that saw the pilot running away from the heli) and held the kill switch on the TX.
After around 1/4 tank the kill signal made it through.

I ain't going anywhere near a spooled up heli that is under control let alone one that's not. There is nothing on that heli that is worth the amount of damage it is capable of doing to me if it glitched while I was walking up to it.

MarkWebber
07-27-2006, 07:24 PM
I ain't going anywhere near a spooled up heli that is under control let alone one that's not. There is nothing on that heli that is worth the amount of damage it is capable of doing to me if it glitched while I was walking up to it.

I'd tend to agree on that one.

peter84
07-27-2006, 10:20 PM
Once I had the heli in the workshop I determined that I could replicate the mid position switch on the bench. To be safe I replaced the switch - but I think that this was a case of operator error. I know in the future that I will double check the switch before every time I turn it on. Whilst on the bench I also found the tail drive was loose - this I traced to not having drilled the dimple deep enough through the drive shaft and into the dog drive universal joint.

Hope the foregoing serves as a warning to others to double check that the switch is truly on.

Safe flying, Peter

Crazy Horse
07-28-2006, 07:34 AM
Peter a good option especially if you want the features the arizona reg from fromeco offer is the arizona reg w/ pin flag switch. Its either on or off no in between. Just one of many options

peter84
07-28-2006, 03:18 PM
Thank you Crazy Horse I shall investigate.
Safe flying, Peter

peter84
07-28-2006, 03:26 PM
Good news Bad news.
Good news is that the Intrepid is flying again; fitted a new switch and new NHP 105mm tail blades (as recommended by Chris) and everything went well - I did double check that my switch was fully turned on before starting the engine!

The bad news is that the flight lasted 14 minutes before the engine seized. Judging by the deep scoring of part of the piston as seen through the exhaust port I can only suspect that there is some foreign object damage. Needles set at 1 1/4 low & 1 3/8 hi, only 1 gallon of 87 octane petrol with 6ozs of Blue Marble per gallon through this engine. E-mail sent to Chris Bergen with pictures asking for suggestions.

Looks like I will only be attending Helis Over Delaware as a spectator tomorrow.

Safe flying, Peter

MarkWebber
07-28-2006, 09:50 PM
That's a real bummer. How did the top of the piston look?

peter84
07-28-2006, 10:03 PM
Just removed the engine - hence my other post for how bets to remove the flywheel. The top of the piston looks clean, as does those parts of the cylinder walls that I can see. The scoring is only one one side of the piston about 6mm wide and almost the full heoght of the piston. My thought is that something was either drawn in via the exhaust port or broke off from inside of the engine and got caught inbetween the piston and liner. I suspect it was the latter and was a small piece off the crankcase.

I might try Harbor Fright in the morning for a small sprocket puller.

Safe flying, Peter