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View Full Version : Building Suggestions for the N9


Chuckie
07-27-2006, 06:58 PM
I thought it would be a good idea to post some building suggestions on the Synergy N9. I've talked with Matt at the Ashland Ohio fun fly and recently with Todd B on questions I've had in looking at the kit and manual.

-The Clutch Bell is designed to accept the GV-1 magnet. It is press fitted into the clutch but to help secure the magnet add a little CA when installing the magnet. Install the other magnet with the opposite polarity and check display readout on the GV-1 to be sure you are only detecting one magnet.

-To mount and dial indicate the fan and clutch first clean off the collets and fan hub with alcohol. Install and tighten the engine nut and dial indicate the fan hub. Adjust as needed. David H has some good suggestions on dialing in the fan so I won't repeat that here. Next install the clutch assembly and without adding locktite tighten the 4x8mm socket head screws. Dial indicate the lower portion of the shaft and if out more than 0.005 inch rotate the clutch assembly 180 degrees and try again. Pick the position that gives you the lowest reading. Locktite and tighten the screws for the clutch after slightly adjusting the position of the clutch assembly to give you the lowest reading at the lower portion of the shaft. Once this is done dial indicate the end of the shaft and if needed physically push the shaft in the right direction. Let the motor sit for a few minutes to see if the shaft moves and dial indicate again.

-Assemble the two parts where the Pin and Pin Clips (106-920 2mm Pin clips) are used before assembling the reminder of the parts. The Pin Clips are easier to install if the other parts are not in the way and if one uses a hammer they wonít risk damaging other parts.

-The Rear Coupler of the torque tube prevents the Tail Input Shaft from moving once secured with the 4 set screws. Push and hold the Tail Bevel Gear on the Input Shaft when setting the 4 set screws in the Rear Coupler. This will take out endplay in the input shaft.

-CA the Inner Bearing Ring for the torque tube bearing supports to the torque tube.

-To install the boom and set the mesh for the 15 Tooth Bevel Gear install the Transmission Output Assembly into the tail boom along with the torque tube and tail gearbox. Install the Main Boom Clamps so the slits are facing down. Then push the boom toward the crown gear while making sure the Transmission Output Assembly is fully seated in the boom. Tighten the top bolts holding the boom clamps first then the lower bolts. Set the mesh by rotating the crown gear and noting any tight spots. Adjust the position the 15 Tooth Bevel Gear (and boom) so there is very little back lash and no back lash if there is a tight spot on the crown gear.

-No need to glue the boom support ends. Just drill and used the button head screws provided.

-CA control rods into tail control rod.

That's all I have for now. Comments and tips are welcome. :glasses2:

Regards,

Chuckie

rajeev
08-15-2006, 11:31 AM
Did not get info regarding what the throttle curve and the pitch curve should be for the different flying modes. The TT raptor manuals have a very detailed one. Did teh Synergy miss out............

pilotError
08-15-2006, 12:18 PM
Great Tips. Thanks...

Rajeev,

The 3D heads I believe are setting +/- 11 degrees on pitch, not sure what they are setting on Cyclic.

Essentially, the 3d guys set the helicopter for maximum cyclic. Typically its the same pitch range and cyclic throws in all modes (norm, idle1, idle2) with different head speeds.

If your a beginner, you can put in expo to slow the cyclic down around center stick. You can also limit the amount of cyclic in the swash menu.

If you've never done a 3d setup before, search some of the sites for setup information and read the Synergy threads. A few have posted their pitch ranges and their setups with various radios.

Mike...

Chuckie
08-15-2006, 07:03 PM
With the N9 you can have up to +-14 degrees of pitch and over +-8 degrees cyclic. I'd suggest as Mike indicates something like +-10 for pitch and +-6 for cyclic for a beginner.

Charles

harveyhugo
08-16-2006, 03:57 PM
How are u guys limiting your pitch range, just using the pitch curve or mechanically?

Chuckie
08-16-2006, 04:22 PM
I'm setting the amount for pitch in the radio. Specifically, I set the limits for pitch in the Swash setting in the 14mz. Other radios have a similar feature where you set the pitch once. I like to see pitch go from zero to 100 percent.

Charles

harveyhugo
08-16-2006, 06:05 PM
Chuckie

any idea of the best thing to do with an FF9, can't afford a 14mz yet. The Synergy came first :lol:

Chuckie
08-16-2006, 06:35 PM
You have the same capability to set the swash amounts as the 14mz. If I had the manual I could help you more. Can you find a manu called Swash in your radio?

Charles

harveyhugo
08-17-2006, 01:27 AM
Chuckie

on the FF9 there is a menu called Swash AFR with 3 values for each of the swashplate servos, I have these currently set to their default values of +50%. Is it these I adjust?

I have followed all the pushrod lengths exactly from the manual however I appear to have a pitch range of +13 to -15, so not symmetrical is this normal.

Thanks for the help

Chuckie
08-17-2006, 08:57 AM
harveyhugo,

Yes that is correct adjust the three settings in Swash AFR.

I assume you set the correct lengths for the links connecting the hiller to seesaw? On page A19, right side, outside total length is 39mm.

Just reset the links as needed to get zero pitch on the blades with throttle at center stick. Check all bell cranks and servos for proper 90 degree position to the rods. The Bell/Hiller mixer is not supposed to be level with the heli at center stick. The long rod from the swashplate to the bell/hiller mixer is at 90 to the center line of the b/h mixer.

My heli needed some minor adjusting but no big deal. I do final setup flying the machine.

Also remember, when you turn the short link I mentioned (39mm) one full turn you will get about 2 degrees of blade angle change. Turning the long rod from the Swashplate to mixer one full turn will give about 1 degree of blade angle change.

Try to adjust main blades when tracking by using the long arms. If you turn them a lot put the heli on the bench again and check main blades with a pitch gauge. You can over adjust and not be zero at center stick.

For my helis I get them set on the bench then adjust blade tracking in the air. Once this is done I do full speed tests to see if the heli pulls the same up right and inverted. Iíll adjust both long rods one half turn until I get the heli to pull the same. If itís windy Iíll try side ways pulls (like knife edge tick tocks) with the nose pointing into the wind or do this test when there is no wind. The center stick might not be zero after this but I prefer to have the heli perform/pull the same at full power.

Hope this helps.

Charles

harveyhugo
08-17-2006, 03:51 PM
Thanks Chuckie will give it a go and get back to you if I have any problems