My T700 Build and Flight Log

[rubbersoul]

Finally decided to get a 90 nitro and got the Trex 700.

So on with the build and right away I hit a snag. One thrust bearing set came with two inner washers. One was labeled OUT but it obviously has the same size hole as the one labeled IN. The other set came with a very tight outer washer. (Are they called races or washers?) Anyhow, build stopped until I get a new set of thrust washers.

[HeliSmith]

race washers, the bearing is called race bearing. I think

Yeah this stuff happens. I have gotten flybars not threaded, bolts with no threads, and two in washers and no outs. I have never had a race washer mis-labeled that I am aware of so far though. That is a new one.

[rubbersoul]

Nice to know I am not the only one. I did not ever encounter anything like this with my other brand heli.

Anyway, not to dampen my excitement, I continued to work on the head down to the swashplate. I was not aware that these parts were pre-assembled, so it was just a matter of dis-assembling, cleaning, and reinstalling with locktite. When I got to the main gear, I went ahead and replaced it with the -1 upgrade. I'll be using the G-force block so hopefully I will never encounter the main gear stripping problem.

In bag 700NH4A, I find the jesus bolt and two other bolts to secure the head to the main shaft. In this bag are 4 big washers. Looking at the drawing I can't seem to find where they are supposed to go. Will watch the vids again.

Tomorrow I will work on the frames, time permitting.

[HeliSmith]

1 of those washers goes on the main shaft right under the swash plate from the bottom of the shaft. It sets on a bevel and is the same thing that the collar used to be.

There are 4 of them because tolerances can vary slightly. You will use the one that goes in and doesn't cause play but not one that you have to pressure the screw into the hold at a cocked angle. In other words the screw should fit pretty easily. Having said that I used a little tighter one on my setup.


P.S. I wasn't only talking about Align helis, I have had this with other helis too. I build helis for work so I build all kinds of them.

[rubbersoul]

Put both frames together last night. No adjustments, main shaft slides so smoothly in the bearings. The G-Force clutch block looks good in there. So far everything is going as planned. Will post a pic later today.

[rubbersoul]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/auctionphotos/trex7002.jpg
G-Force Clutch block installed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/auctionphotos/trex7003.jpg

Gear mesh adjusted.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/auctionphotos/trex7001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/auctionphotos/trex7004.jpg
Cyclic servos, fuel tank, elevator control installed. Managed to squeeze in all these in a span of 24 hours. :)

Looking for an SB19FH for my YS91SR and AR700R if anyone has them lying around.

[rubbersoul]

Managed to work on the boom block. Since this is a CF frame, I decided to apply the lessons learned with the T500 with regards to static. Never heard of the T700 having static problems but just the same I grounded the bearings to the frame by electrically connecting the boom block bearings to the frame using strips of aluminum foil. I did this by inserting one end of the aluminum foil into the hole were the hex mounting bolts go and the other end under the bearings. I have continuity from the boom block bearings to the frame.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/auctionphotos/trex7005.jpg

Align made the job easier with the tail case. All bolts have adhesive. Tail blade holder bolts were also tight. But I encountered a second problem with the tail rotor control arm. It was binding pretty bad when I tightened the bolt down to the tail case. The lower bearing was rubbing inside the bore making the whole assembly notchy. Looks like the collar is a hair shorter than the bore it is going into, making the lower bearing come in contact with the bore. I put the washer in between the collar and the bearing and problem solved (page 19 of the manual). Another demerit, but over-all an enjoyable build.

[rubbersoul]

After reading about bad links on this forum, I am happy I got a good bunch in my kit. Except for the throttle and rudder, all links are assembled. Much easier to work with these links than my other nitro. Silicone lube on the rods made it easier too.

Still reading and deciding which blades to put on this bird. I wanted to go all Align but the cosmetically flawed radix price is very tempting.

[miglis]

when your done with the entire tail section please observe if tail rotor is perpendicular to the ground if not inform us, some kits are faulty by design and need a little tweaking...

[rubbersoul]

Will do that.

After reading the build tips in the "Techno Central" thread, I re-checked my main gear for play. And sure enough, I have a up and down play. Didn't notice it before. Opened the one-way bearing assembly and attempted to do some house cleaning as per recommendation. It did not go very well :arggg:. Bearing was seated tight on the one-way bearing cover and I ruined it trying to get it out using a mallet. Do you need to heat this thing up to install a new bearing?

[cbdane]

Will do that.

After reading the build tips in the "Techno Central" thread, I re-checked my main gear for play. And sure enough, I have a up and down play. Didn't notice it before. Opened the one-way bearing assembly and attempted to do some house cleaning as per recommendation. It did not go very well :arggg:. Bearing was seated tight on the one-way bearing cover and I ruined it trying to get it out using a mallet. Do you need to heat this thing up to install a new bearing?

All I had to do was to gently push it home with the right size socket and a bench vise.

[rubbersoul]

Installed the engine today. Starter shaft is easy and smooth to turn by finger so the whole clutch and engine assembly are true and square. But now I see how difficult it might be to replace the clunk line.

[rubbersoul]

when your done with the entire tail section please observe if tail rotor is perpendicular to the ground if not inform us, some kits are faulty by design and need a little tweaking...
It's not. Had to file a little here and there and it is now perfectly square with the main shaft.

[rubbersoul]

After reading about boom support set screws backing out due to nitro seeping into it, I used shrink wrap to cover the screw.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/auctionphotos/IMG00577.jpg

Will see if shrink wrap can survive the nitro.

[miglis]

may i propose a better solution?
you can use a support bridge that holds the boom struts, kinda like an x shape.
during one of my flights the screw came off and the bridge held the strut from folding up to the rotor disc....close call.....

[rubbersoul]

may i propose a better solution?
you can use a support bridge that holds the boom struts, kinda like an x shape.
during one of my flights the screw came off and the bridge held the strut from folding up to the rotor disc....close call.....
I have that in my other nitro heli. It will be used on the 700 too.

[rubbersoul]

All I had to do was to gently push it home with the right size socket and a bench vise.
bearings arrived. heated both cases and it dropped right in.

Build will be delayed until I get back. Going to drive to Portland Oregon with the family to close the summer vacation. School starts soon for the kids. Bringing my 450 to sneak in some flights in rest areas and other open fields.:YeaBaby:

[rubbersoul]

So I am back to the build after the road trip up to Washington state and back to California.

Servo wheels are in, rotor head setup done. Those align wheels made centering very easy. I am getting +-13 deg pitch, although I doubt if I will ever need that much. I only run up to 10 deg on my 50. Fuel system has been completed with Hayes line and Hayes header tank. Other fuel lines used were Dubro lines. Ordered the 690Ds in keeping with my goal of making this almost purely an "align" heli. If Align has RXs I would have used an align RX :lol:.

The SB19 should be here by tomorrow. This is the last piece of hardware needed. Still deciding on whether to use a gasket or not.

Hoping to maiden on Sunday.

[rubbersoul]

Well, it flew, for about half a tank!

I don't know what went wrong but my YS91SR died while I was hovering. I lost all compression in the engine. Engine has been taken apart and there is obvious damage to the ring, piston, and liner. Except for the low needle, the mid and high needles were in factory settings. We adjusted the low needle for best idle, and transition to hover was good. Went to a hover and after a few minutes, the engine quit. Touched the backplate and it was really hot.

The high is the short needle, right?

[rubbersoul]

Engine is now idling smoothly with new piston, ring and liner. Will be breaking in the engine in the next few days and hopefully by the weekend, it will be ready to rumble.

I weighed the RTF heli and it is exactly 10lbs (without fuel). Header tank has a leak. Called Heliproz and they are sending me a replacement free of charge. Talk about taking care of its regular customers.

[Tom Burgess]

Yes the short needle is high, BUT, you only tune that once you get the hover needle set. ;)

Engine is now idling smoothly with new piston, ring and liner. Will be breaking in the engine in the next few days and hopefully by the weekend, it will be ready to rumble.

I weighed the RTF heli and it is exactly 10lbs (without fuel). Header tank has a leak. Called Heliproz and they are sending me a replacement free of charge. Talk about taking care of its regular customers.

[rubbersoul]

Yes the short needle is high, BUT, you only tune that once you get the hover needle set. ;)
Thanks for confirming that.

[rubbersoul]

After much frustration with a used YS91SR, I bought an OS91HZ and today, I finally got to fly my T700. A few more tuning flights tomorrow and it should be ready to rock and roll.

[rubbersoul]

Already burned a gallon and started flying some more. The supposed last flight today did not even get off the ground. First, on startup, the clutch did not seem to engage. The starter just spun freely. And when it did, I could not get the engine to idle low so that the clutch does not engage similar to the previous flight. If I go too far, the engine will either die or the engine will start to turn in reverse!

I am suspecting 2 things, I broke my clutch already or the engine prop nut has loosened. Anyone experience the same thing? What was your solution?

Thanks.

[jschenck]

Seen similar at our field, it was the fan hub slipping on the crankshaft. Check the two bolts that pinch the fan hub onto the crankshaft.

When the clutch breaks it makes a horrible crunching noise when you go to start it and drags very hard when trying to start it.