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AZ ChopperCam
08-07-2006, 04:47 PM
I'm thinking the Kasama head with 710's would be just great

fitenfyr
08-07-2006, 06:13 PM
DJ,
I am one for not trying to "re-think" the guys that played with the numbers when they built these things when it comes to AP and the other associated risk.

You like this setup and think it is fine.
I wouldn't care for it.
Simple as that. :wink:

AZ ChopperCam
08-07-2006, 06:31 PM
yeah I understand. It's cool. We can agree to disagree.

There are leaders and followers... those who push the envelope and those who wait for others to do it for them. I guess I dig pushing things a little and recording/reporting my results.

miami6
08-07-2006, 07:24 PM
DJ on my Stretch job I am running custom Blade Grips , metal head block - and a chromoly spindle custom made

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/miami6/Raptor%20Skunk%20Works/DSC_0054.jpg

WillJames
08-07-2006, 08:22 PM
I thought you were already running metal grips on all your stretched AP Raptors like mine DJ?

AZ ChopperCam
08-07-2006, 10:19 PM
I am on the electric one but not on the nitro. I think Kasama heads for both are in order.

iflybyu77
08-08-2006, 11:07 AM
Kasama heads? You gonna 3d em?? :D I'd stick with the TT headblock and grips (metal) and you'll be ok.

AZ ChopperCam
08-08-2006, 11:09 AM
the Kasama head has adjustable main blade mixing arms. I'm thinking I can get a softer setup that way.

dreslism
08-08-2006, 11:22 AM
Just curious with all this talk.

I have the Mavrikk alum blade grips on my raptor titan.

They came with bearing already in them.

Do you guys know if thrust bearings are also in there?

Thanks

iflybyu77
08-08-2006, 02:02 PM
Scott - I don't *THINK* so. I believe they just come with the radial bearings, preinstalled.

dreslism
08-08-2006, 02:54 PM
Scott - I don't *THINK* so. I believe they just come with the radial bearings, preinstalled.

Ok thanks. I don't really know/understand what thrust bearings do. (I'm sure someone will chime in with the technical definition, which I still don't understand). Just trying to understand why some heli's have them and others don't, and what they do in layman's terms.

Should I take them out of my stock grips and put them in my alum grips, or are the alum grips fine?

BTW, anyone have any good tutorial or method for getting blade grips off the feathering spindle?

I can of course always loosen one grip using a hex wrench on each end of feathering spindle, but one I loosen/remove that grip, I have no way to loosen other blade grip bolt, as it just spins the feathering spindle with it.

Thanks

askman
08-08-2006, 03:42 PM
standard cartridge bearing is designed for radial load, not thrust load along the axis. cartridge bearing thrust load rating is typically pretty low. (within 100lb) thrust bearig is design to handle the type of load faced by grips in the head. the load on the bearings can hit 2-300lb easily with blade we are dealing with. this kind of load will destroy cartridge bearing by pulling through. thrust bearing keeps this from happened while allowing smooth action due to drag




http://science.howstuffworks.com/bearing2.htm

fitenfyr
08-08-2006, 03:57 PM
Should I take them out of my stock grips and put them in my alum grips, or are the alum grips fine?
Well if you have been flying it then you already did. :D
If you are asking for a first time install then yes you need to move the thrust bearings from the plastic grips to your new ones.

I don't know of any nitro ships that don't have thrust bearings in the main rotor grips.
Usually the tail is where you see them omitted on the less expensive ships.

Thrust bearings are the 3 piece bearings that you install.
One of the sides of the bearing (the ones that look like washers with a groove) is smaller than the other. It goes to the outside.
The larger goes to the inside with the bearing (the ring with the ball bearings in it) goes in the middle.

That type of bearing is better suited for high load situations like that caused by the centrifugal forces that a spinning rotor head place on the bearing.
They are essentially "thrown" to a locked position and then absorb the rotational forces against the spindle bolt.

Probably not the most accurate description, but it has gotten me by. :D

miami6
08-09-2006, 04:46 PM
gary the A50-12L how does that compare to the new A50 Variant for the E620 that you tested on Jeff's E620 ?


power -weight and output

GGoodrum
08-09-2006, 05:50 PM
gary the A50-12L how does that compare to the new A50 Variant for the E620 that you tested on Jeff's E620 ?


power -weight and output

The A50-12L is a bigger motor (longer can...), with a lower kV. The -16S is a better one to compare it to, as the kVs are about the same. It has a lot more torque, and is roughly equivalent to comparing the 24-4 to a 32-3. In both cases the kVs are close but the resistance for the bigger motor is lower, which makes the torque higher.

In general, I think the 10-pole variants are going to have slightly less torque than the 14-pole versions, but they should run significantly cooler in hard 3D applications, so they actually may end up with more torque, and bog less.

For AP applications, I don't think we'll see any differences. By using the lower kV A50-16S and the A50-12L, we aren't spinning them much faster than they do in the airplanes, so heat isn't really an issue. It doesn't much matter anyway, as the 10-pole versions have kVs of 490 and 550. There won't be a lower kV version.

-- Gary

rroback
08-12-2006, 02:22 AM
you know why you need the 60/90 head? so you can run 800's. duh. haha

Coolheli
08-21-2006, 11:41 PM
1.What's the belt you guys are using on the full length Ergo 60 boom?
and where do I get it?
2.Would I be able run 690 mains with 110 tail blades on your cut down version of the boom with A6R3-368025 belt?

Thanks in advance.

GGoodrum
08-22-2006, 02:14 AM
you know why you need the 60/90 head? so you can run 800's. duh. haha

Not so fast! You can't use ANY of the Raptor 60/90 mechanics on an R50-based setup, because everything on a 60/90 is based on a 12mm main shaft.

-- Gary

Teej
08-22-2006, 10:36 AM
Looking at what DJ wrote about the 368 tooth belt and the boom cut down 1.95", I looked at the belt which came out to be 73.6". Adding back 3.90" (1.95" * 2) came to 77.5".

However, the closest I could get at that belt supply place he linked to was 77.00" so I ordered one of those to give it a try. At worst, I'll need to shorten up the boom .25"

Teej
08-22-2006, 10:42 AM
My question is if MAH 700s will be too much for the 12L motor on 10s.

Or how difficult it would be to fit a gohbee (or tt?) 11 tooth pinion from a 60 size...

AZ ChopperCam
08-22-2006, 11:12 AM
i think I bought a 385 tooth belt from sdp-si.com with that I believe the stock ergo 60 boom will work without trimming or very little trimming.

I think the 12L will power 700's no problem

GGoodrum
08-22-2006, 11:23 AM
I too think the 12L will have no problem with the 700s. The Raptor (and the Gohbee...) have fixed geometries, re: the gearing, so you can only use either the R50's 85T/10T combo or the R30's 86T/9T set.

Teej
08-22-2006, 11:28 AM
Excellent. The 385 is what I bought as well.

As DJ said, SDP-SI is the source. The part # for the 385 tooth belt is:

"A 6R 3-385025 "

Coolheli
08-28-2006, 09:27 PM
Got my belt today,but still no boom.My LHS had no manual for ergo 60 therefore I had to look up the part # online and that's what I got;
Tail Boom:E,Q,Z
JRP983011
Is this the right boom :?:

AZ ChopperCam
08-28-2006, 09:29 PM
yyep. that's the one