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View Full Version : All you need to know for trouble free mSR FUN


HeliDragon
09-01-2009, 03:32 PM
OK maybe not AAAAALLL you need to know, but with everything I have seen and done with my mSR and problems many folks are having, including the owner of my LHS I feel that the info below is all you need to know to get going. Feel free to add more gotchas or call me out if I am way off. I only have my mSR and what I have seen folks going through online. I also posted this in another thread, but felt it was good enough to starts a new one. Thanks,

[PASTE]

Hey guys I didn't have time to sit down and read every single post, but I had some goofy issues with the mSR after I started using it for a while. I have a DX6i, started a new Helicopter model and did the bind process.

First off it looks like this little FP likes to kind of swing back and fourth a little. I think it is a side effect of the stability of the heli. There are really only 3 things you need to be careful of.

1. If you have BNF, make sure you set it up as airplane and you only need to add a little trim with the trim buttons. No sub trim. All other settings are default. Throttle, rudder, everything DEFAULT.

2. Make sure the tail fan is perfectly aligned with the main shaft or it will not hover, it will start wanting to moved in big circles over and over getting worse and worse. It will be a PAIN to fly as well. I have only gotten a very close look at my mSR but the mainshaft on mine is slightly off by a few degrees. I think it did this so the heli does not lean to one side like most small heli's like to do, especially with electric tail fans.

3. Don't over tighten the blades. The heli will wobble terribly and be very hard to control. It also looks/sounds terrible.

Thats it. No tweaking is needed with this guy. It won't fly like your CP heli, but is still a LOT of fun to fly. Some other interesting flight characteristics. It seems to go backwards slowly but is quick to stop if you pull back on your cyclic. You can do a fun "slingshot" if you time it right. The heli likes to sort of swing forward and back a little like a Co-Ax but not as bad if you get the swing right, and have LOTS of room, you can go backward, then catch the swing, it subtle. Then give it full forward cyclic and some throttle to keep it up in the air and ZOOOOOOM off she goes REALLY fast, startlingly fast actually.

The mSR is better at responding to left anf right cyclic. I have no idea why. If you are having a little trouble getting her to go forward or backward, add a little left or right cyclic. Most spectators won't even notice. This is especially helpful in wind and she won't come back to you using forward, and especially backward cyclic. Turn her left or right facing and give strong left or right cyclic so she comes to you.

Another thing I noticed is breaking points. The tiny linkage rods that connect the fly-bar to the blade grips at the very top of the head move up and down through some guides. I took the linkage rods and used some fine sand paper to sanded down the little plastic nubs in the middle were the injection molding is put in. It was actually binding on the guides. This made a huge difference. Finally, the first place mine broke was the blade grips, they are screwed to each other and in a good crash they stripped apart. Some of the plastic around the screws is suuuuper thin and seems to crack easy. Add some plastic lock tight and mayne a tiny tab of rubber cement ware the pieces join under the screws. I ended up using CA, but I know it won't last for ever. I would rather replace the parts but I can't buy anything yet.

I am still a beginner with my TREX, but I think I am between beginner and intermediate with my mSR. Hope this info helps.

Note: I got home from work and realized the information I listed for the linkage arm from the fly-bar to the swash was wrong. It was the fly-bar to the blade grips. But it would not hurt to sand off the nubs in the middle of the linkage arms going from the fly-bar to the swash as well even though they don't need to mover as much. Hope this help and thanks for any feedback.

- HeliDragon

Wills2084
09-01-2009, 04:13 PM
I'm not sure I understand number 2. You said make sure the tail rotor is inline with the main shaft, but then you stated yours is a couple degrees off. I've noticed my shaft is a couple of degrees angled, but I know that's standard for a tiny heli like this one. Are you saying to line the tail rotor a couple degrees off too to match the main shaft?

HeliDragon
09-02-2009, 01:00 AM
I'm not sure I understand number 2. You said make sure the tail rotor is inline with the main shaft, but then you stated yours is a couple degrees off. I've noticed my shaft is a couple of degrees angled, but I know that's standard for a tiny heli like this one. Are you saying to line the tail rotor a couple degrees off too to match the main shaft?

Yes. Thats exactly what I mean. Position your tail fan blade pointing up and down and use it a guide to eye-ball the alignment of the slight angle of the main shaft to the tail. It may move around on you in a crash. I had mine nearly perfectly up and down instead of lined up with the main shaft and it flew so bad I was ready to take it back. Thanks,

- HeliDragon

Wills2084
09-02-2009, 06:41 AM
so line the tail rotor with main shaft. right?

HeliDragon
09-02-2009, 10:08 AM
Yes. Thats what I did and it made a world of difference.

VerticalDave
09-02-2009, 11:57 AM
If you pull the tail shaft out you will see a flat on it. You can't turn it that much as it uses this flat for alignment.

HeliDragon
09-02-2009, 12:38 PM
Dave how does the tail shaft come out? Just yank hard on it? Is there a flat spot at the other end to, at the point the plastic motor mount connects to?

Notches or not it is very possible that it can be several degrees off. Its enough to make it start "toilet bolwing" exponentionally until it crashes. But lined up with the main shaft it will more or less hover perfectly like it does in the E-Flight promo video.

Anybody get a chance to try the "sling-shot" move I mentioned above? You need big open space and it ROCKETS forward. I would imagine it will slowdown a little due to the slight forward and back seesaw handling it gets, hoping I can try it in a park in the morning this weekeng when there is no wind. May be able to fly my TREX there in the morning too. She is a park flyer after all. :P

- HeliDragon

clp.eng
11-18-2010, 03:18 PM
I'm not sure I agree with #1. I have my msR on my DX6i as a heli & it flies pretty well. You can change a bunch of stuff this way. I got the programming starting point from another forum.

Chuck

CocoSantango
11-18-2010, 03:38 PM
I'm not sure I agree with #1. I have my msR on my DX6i as a heli & it flies pretty well. You can change a bunch of stuff this way. I got the programming starting point from another forum.

Chuck

No reason to bind it in heli mode unless the deeper settings are intimidating. Using the throttle hold button is a good thing to get accustomed to doing before a crash, and it's not available in airplane mode if I'm not mistaken. I also don't see anything new here that's not available in the other stickies.

hydro_pyro
11-19-2010, 06:45 PM
The molding nubs on the links face out, not sideways. They shouldn't rub. The nubs serve as a position indicator-- they always face OUT.

As for "rocketing forward"-- Once you put a short-arm swashplate in your bird as many other pilots have done, you won't need to play tricks on it to get it shooting forward. You won't lose it in the wind, and you'll have much more control. See here:

http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=230108&highlight=cutting+swashplate

I routinely fly mine at full throttle outdoors.

CuStOm
11-19-2010, 07:21 PM
Awesome post, thanks!

marcoeldragon
11-22-2010, 05:13 PM
I had mine bound to my DX6i both ways one as a plane one as a heli and the heli model was much faster and way more manuverable. I deleted the plane model.