Slide block dropping low..

[woodturner]

O.K. another nob question..

I have a CCMP Evo 50. When I shut the chopper down the Slide block drops below the arms of the Radius block.

Prior to putting power to the bird I need to ensure the slide block is properly engaged with the radius block..

The Radius block is 3mm down from center hub, per instructions..

I have clearance at the top with full pitch, should I move the radius block further down ensuring I do not have binding at full pitch?

Do they make radius blocks with longer arms???

[ShawnK]

First things first...

When you have your collective at zero pitch, where is your collective arm sitting? The pivot for your elevator control should be exactly in the middle of the vertical slots in your side frames. If it's not, then need to reset all of your head geometry to give you zero pitch at a higher point on the mainshaft.

You can move the radius block down a little bit if you'd like (shouldn't be any big deal), but I would take the time to ensure that my geometry is set up correctly to begin with. You shouldn't have to move the radius block down... it's kind of a "warning flag" that something else may not be right.

Can you take a shot from the side of your helicopter with the collective at zero pitch? I can help you better if I can see the whole shebang.

[woodturner]

Hi Buddy,

O.K. Here are two side shots with center throttle.

Thanks for the QUICK reply!!!!

[Italianbob2169]

Hi I'm still having major problems, now at half stick I have 5.5 of NEGATIVE I can't get this thing right. Please let me know if you have come up with something...Bob

[ShawnK]

Woodturner,

In my opinion, you have two options - one is the "quick fix", the other is the "correct fix".

QUICK FIX: Just slide your radius block down a couple millimeters.

CORRECT FIX: You'll need to raise your swashplate at the zero pitch setting, and reset the head accordingly. This means you'll need to lengthen the 3 links going to the swashplate (equal amounts, of course), but this will make your washout arms cockeyed. You'll need to then shorten your flybar control links (from the washout arms to the flybar "hoop"), as well as shortening your Bell links (the long links from your swashplate to the Bell-Hiller mixers). Like you did when you first assembled it, you'll need to make sure that all of your linkages are "90 and square".

[woodturner]

Thanks Buddy,

I'll take the long road & correct everything you suggested. Will work on getting 90 degrees at the servos.

Appreciate the assist..

[legoman67]

umm i just bought a used heli(my first one) and after reading this i had a looking at mine and it looks like the previous owner has done the "quick fix" for the same problem! Is this bad? Sould it be repaired? or is it not a big deal?

[woodturner]

legoman67,

I'm not an expert, just couple things I've learned.

First make sure you are not binding at full pitch, then check full pitch range. If your getting 10 degrees of pitch and you still have a gap between radius block and swash your good to go. If you have binding or do not have sufficient throw you may need to take the long road.

Good luck either way.. The long road is not really that long & worth it in the end.

Happy flyin'

Frank