Anyone knows an easy way to replace tail gear HDX 450 SE?

[BarnOwl]

I am about to change the tail drive for the second time on one of my HDX frames. This is one of the things that is NOT easy to do. First of all I have to lift all servo wires that pass here to access the alu tail gear holders. Then I have to just about unbolt the whole aft section of the frame to de-assemble the entire tail gearblock because it is notched in the frame. Then I have to replace the gear in the alu blocks and reverse the procedure for refitting the whole shabang.

There must be an easier way, please? :dontknow

[Finless]

No other way I know of.... I have to do the same thing this week :(

Bob

[BarnOwl]

Blast! That will take a while, well if there is no other way, so be it........ :arggg:

[austriacus]

Just did it on my - my belt broke but I was finished in less then 15 min.

there is no way around on the tail section - you have to take it completely part in order to mount the belt.

on the belt I put a little heat shrink on and push it throught the boom.

I don't have to move any wires as I have them all on the outside of the chassis - similar to the finless movies - by the way thanks bob they are great. Thats the biggest time saver.

Once the tailboom is reassembled I onle have to loosen the tailboom holder and the pitch servo so I can slide the belt over - rethighten the servo - tighten the tail boom and I am done.

If you havel all the wires inside the chassis it is a big pain - I agree.

I hope this helps

Christian

[rcboosted]

I wonder if the notch can be trimmed off. Each block have 4 screws holding it together already. The notch seems redundant.

[byhsu]

Is the metal tail gear better than plastic?

[DEEP6PAK]

Am I missing something on the replacement of this assy? How do you replace the gear assy with the se metal upper and lower bearing blocks? I can get the lower off no problem, but then I get to the top section and I am baffled! I cannot seem to budge the top gear, or the lower one, so how do you you remove the upper bearing block?????? :arggg: :arggg: :arggg:

[DEEP6PAK]

Hello, Hello, Is anybody out there?

I have now resorted to ordering a plastic body kit for an SA, to go into my SE so that I can actually change out the flipping gear assy. I must be missing something as I cannot believe that as serviceable as the rest of this thing is, this could be so hard to replace. The SA plastic upper bearing block splits in half allowing field replacement... WTF is up with the Auminum one???

Anyone

Anyone

[Finless]

You need a pinion puller to pull off the pulley. But the plastic blocks are better anyway in my opinion.

Bob

[DEEP6PAK]

Thanks bob, I should be geting it in the mail today.

[LAMAR COOLEY]

Hay guys. Let me take a crack at this. This is how I went about changing the belt gear on my trex 450 se.1.) remove the screws and 2 posts holding the fus. boom
block.2.) remove the 2 screws and posts that connect the upper frame to the lower frame at the lower bearing block.3.) this was a little difficult. sneak a small phillips screw drive into the lower frame slot to access the lower bearing block screw that has no post. 4.) remove the screws that hold the upper bearing block. Removing these screws allowed the frame to flex just enough to remove the upper bearing block and get the small screw driver on the bottom back screw on the lower bearing block.5.) to remove the upper block I used a sharp pointed rod inserted
between the frame and the block at the block tab inside corner at the rear. This little rod came along with a set of small jewelers files I found at Radio Shack for about $6.00. It is about 1/8" o.d and about 4" long
The frame flexed just enough on one side to allow me to move the assembly and
catch the tab on the frame clearing the tab slot. Then I went to the other side and did the same thing with the pointed rod. Now that the tabs are clear of the slots
I was able to move the whole assembly down and forward to remove it below the
main and auto gears.
What was l devil for me was trying to remove the small gear.
First problem. the gear puller bottom plate would not fit between the gear and the bearing.So I took a cut off wheel to the bottom of the metal gear and removed very carefully enough material to get the base plate in only to find that the gear puller could not do the job( bent the puller shaft ) so I removed the rest of the metal gear with the cutoff wheel only to find that the gear was pressed onto a splined shaft.Second problem.The replacement shaft is not splined but smooth and the instructions say to install the gear by tapping on with a hammer. Third problem. The new metal gear slid right onto the shaft with almost no force required. Here I used some of the R-48 that came with the kit.
With a tooth pick I applied a small amount to the inside of the gear so that it would not get into the bearing. Install the whole assembly back up under the main gears.
I hope this may be of some assistance. By the way the belt gear is on firmly
and so far has not slipped after about 3 months of flying.

[heirmeistr]

Sorry if this is a silly question, but what does HDX refer to? I just purchased a 450 SE and have been in this hobby only a couple of months now. Thanks

[VBDave]

HDX is the HDX450 (T-rex class kit (clone) with the G10 SuperFrame)

[FlyinLo]

I believe it's something like Heli Direct t-reX, since it's pretty much a t-rex clone.