SJM 400 V2 - great work of art!

[Laurens]

Jeroen, how much did it cost you all up?

I did a search today on rctechnics.nl, and I've found:

SJM 400 II
FG blades
4* towerpro 9gr servo
Himodel 30A esc
Himodel 1700 mah lipo
Micro antenna

For about 300 euro. I'll use a 401 gyro, and a PCM rx.

How much did you spend on the heli?

[BarnOwl]

Hi Laurens,

I got the kit plus the spare parts set from RC-Tek for € 215,00 including shipment from Germany: http://www.sjm400.eu/400IIkits.html

I just dismantled one of my T-Rexes and fitted all the components I still had in the drawer: HS 65 servo's on the swash, Airtronics 94761 on the tail, Telebee RC500 gyro (Prefer a GY401, but this works for the moment), Jazz ESC and 450 outrunner 3000kv with 16T pinion. RX is a Futaba 146iPCM.
Now, if you add all that up it will be way over 500 and some pieces might be overkill on this bird, but I had them anyway,so.....

If you are considering buying a complete heli you might get the RC-Tek complete VII with HS 65 + ESC + motor +gyro for less then 400 Euro's. (bottom of that page)

[NY Rebel]

I bought the v.1 a couple of weeks ago. Couldn't resist the price (I think vendor was moving stock to make room for v.2).
I think for the price, even at full retail, this is a hard package to beat. I'm sure some of the hardcore T-rexers will say it's too fragile or underpowered, etc.
But since I'm somewhat of a newbie to the electric heli world, this bird is just what I wanted.... A very reasonably priced next step.
I'm sure I will eventually replace it, but for me it filled a nitch that, from what I could find, was seriously devoid of suitable machines.

[bluemooone]

You will like it! Very light and grace full , and fun to fly!

[Danyboy]

Hello folks,

This morning, when I went to my local dealer to pick up one of those cheaper-than-a-bargain crash-set, the new, redesigned tail was there as well... Had to get one of those, of course... ;)

Installation is quite easy, if you had a closer look at one of those tail-pitch-sliders that had not only one link but one on top and one on bottom which are linked by a fork, you even won't need a manual.

The only thing important to understand, is that you're going to change the tail-rotor from leading-edge to trailing-edge control...
And instead of rotating the aft gear-casing (which means getting it somehow loose from the tail-boom), I rotated the whole boom.

In the end, it looks very good and if you ask for play, I ask back: Are you familiar with the mathematical concept of zero? ;)
Now *that's* what I call slop-free... :)

Bad news is though, that after changing the tail and main-wheel, adjusting and readjusting the head, my motor burnt away... :shock: :arggg:

I hope you guys have more luck...

Cheers,

Daniel

[Danyboy]

On second thought, I'd like to state a "heads-up":

Those two balls that are on the flybar, which receive steering inputs...

They are fixed in position by two *really* tiny scrub(?)-screws (sorry, don't know the correct english name for it...).

I just expirienced, upon my first crash, that those screws can only be installed once, after that, the hex is no more a hex, but a somewhat edged roundish hole...
So I advise to fix those balls with suitable glue or solder or something, once you've found the perfect position for them.
The only case you would need to remove those, is when you need to replace the flybar, and then you can cut the flybar as well... Otherwise, they just move around and with each attempt to fix them, the screw gets rounder, making it impossible to tighten after the second attempt.

Cheers,

Daniel