Walkera Thread

[skunkworx]

the tail 'swing' is controlled by your GYRO and should be adjusted to 'hold' the tail. Do you have a HH gyro on it? (Heading Hold gyro)
The other way is your mixing or dual rate I think (I don't think you have this on your radio). Chances are you don't have your gain high enough. Does the nose hold in forward flight or is it only a problem on punch-out?

I recommend changing out your radio equipment if possible. Walkera has some cheesy electronics. My 52 gets a little glitching in it as well. The biggest advantage of upgrading TX/RX/servos&gyro is using sub-trims, remote gyro gain adjustments and higher precision on controls.

[justaFREAK]

My 1st bird was the 60. Could only get it light on the skids (I live at 8000feet ASL) and it skttered around and of course crashed it. Broke the tail. Bought some upgrade parts spec'd for the Trex 450 and they fit perfectly. The tail case and head unit including main shaft are perfect matches.

I subsequently bought a Trex 450XL CDE and was able to put the aluminum parts I bought for the 60 on to my Rexy. I installed the plastic parts from the Trex kit onto my 60.

If you have or can get the current issue of RC Heli magazine, they do a review of the Night Ranger 3D XL. After seeing that article I believe it is a Walkera 60 rebadged. In fact if you compare all the Venom Aircorps helis, they all seem to suspiciously have a twin counterpart within the Walkera fleet. The 3D XL got a decent review, which prompted me to order the Walkera BL motor and speed control. I will probably put my HS55s from my Trex into the 60 and buy some HS65 MG for my Rexy.

[skunkworx]

The 3D micro is a dead knockoff of the DF 52. I'm sure all the others are the same kind of 'copy'. Slap some new stickers and a cheap paint job on the outside and 'Voila!!' you got yourself a Venom heli! Hehe....I do believe they use a little different electronics, but I could be wrong (at least that's what they claim).

You won't be dissapointed in the slightest with the MG's. I'm not too sure about how well they stand up to the JR servos (as far as 3D performance is concerned), but they are pretty darn bullet-proof when your heli gets aquainted with the pavement/dirt/grass/trees/parked or moving cars etc... :arggg:

[FordGT145]

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Question - Walkera 22E Question

Hi All,
I just purchased this heli which came on FM channel #54. I also own the
Futaba 7C on channel #44. I was wondering if I could change the crystal
on the heli receiver to #44 and use the Futaba radio. I tried doing this with
a crystal from Hitec but had no luck. Did I do something
wrong or is there something I should have done to get this to work.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Roy :?:

[skunkworx]

No reason it shouldn't work as long as it's on the 72MHz band. The numbers are there to more easily see what channel you are on. (usually the frequencies are like 72.553, 72.447, 72.339MHz etc....) It's easier to use 33, 55, 42, 44 etc... for recognition instead of having to spot out the minute differences in the whole number.

Just make sure your Receiver (RX) and your Transmitter (TX) are using the same crystal #'s (freq's) It should work fine.

Your RX might not have the same amount of channels as your TX, so that could be a bit of a problem (you only lose auxilliary functions if your RX has 4ch and your TX has 5 or more channels) If so, just use the main chanels for your inputs and do without things like remte gain etc...

Hope this helps. I'm probably a little off on this, but I'm sure someone else will make corrections! Good luck!

[edzinator]

FordGT
I had good luck using old Futaba single conversion Rx crystal to switch mine to 46, but still only worked with Walkera Tx. I'm sure someone here has a solution.


edz

[justaFREAK]

The Walkera RX is not compatible with Futaba TX. You'll need to replace he RX altogether if you want to use your Futaba TX.

[FordGT145]

Does that mean I would have to go to separate components?

[justaFREAK]

Unfortunately the 22E has an All-in-One controller/receiver/gyro/mixer. Which means you would have to replace all of those items individually. You would be hard pressed to get all those components to fit separately. I think an Ikaus piccoboard might be what you are looking for, but you'll want to confirm this someone who is more familiar with them.

[edzinator]

I have seen the 4in1 unit for the Blade CP run by Hitec TX, I will test it with my 7chp this week and post findings. Separates are a bit of work to get running well, but can be done (see gallery). I agree the Walkera Rx only worked for me with the Walkera Tx, I was able to change the channel with the futaba single conversion crystals.

edz

[gordopancake]

Hey mate just got a 68#b and it will not fly out of the box. I am learning after 36b bad experience. The transmitter settings is where the trouble lays, with no club near me I am lost as to setup. Got the pitch to 9deg finally and then burnt out the tail servo. Any tutorials you know of on how to setup trans and gyro?

[JasonJ]

The 3D micro is a dead knockoff of the DF 52. I'm sure all the others are the same kind of 'copy'. Slap some new stickers and a cheap paint job on the outside and 'Voila!!' you got yourself a Venom heli! Hehe....I do believe they use a little different electronics, but I could be wrong (at least that's what they claim).

Venom is rebadged Walkera, every single part. The only difference is price and color. The only way to get around the Tx issues is to switch to a 4-in-1 from another company like Esky or E-flight micros. Walkera made their tx/rx proprietary, why, who knows.

[Gr4yb3ard]

A Walkera forum would be nice, especially considering the variety and scope of thier line.

I just picked up a 4#3 on a whim, just spent the last hour flying it. Whoop-Whoop!

Does anyone want to talk about the 4#3, want a test report, or know anything about the 4g3?

Gr4yb3ard
"Honey, I have'nt seen the cat in days..."

Trex v2 se, partially blinged
Blade 400 stock
Gui 200 on the way
Blade CP Pro, blinged, 40hp
Walkera 4#3

[Rogan]

Do the epoxy mod on the head! Makes it last loads longer.

Nothing on the 4g3 I'm afraid, other than I want one.

[Gr4yb3ard]

Fanged One!

For my part, I've found that you can buy 1mm cf rod from Midwest Products to replace the flybar rods on the 4#3.

Two sticks of 610mm x 1mm, enough for about 16 flybars for $5 US. Available in lot's of LHS's, US at least. Sanding and fitting may ensue, does not seem as stiff as the OEM part, but flies better.

Any feedback on just why this critter (flies) so wierd? I'm thinking servo lag, but I'm newer to sub-micros than I am to most of this mess. But it's cute, and does get off the ground, makes an interesting paperweight on occasion...

Now tell me more about the epoxy head upgrade, or die, unholy muppet from hell! ;-)

Gr4yb3ard
" ...yeah, 4g3, we should know better by now, but it looks neat!..."

[Rogan]

Basically you just take the blade holder and bearings off. Sand the inside of the V to roughen it up. Put something in as a filler - i use a bit of cocktail stick. And epoxy it into a solid lump. Leave it to cure, then put the bearings and blade holder back on.

Makes the head last ages longer. :thumbup:

[Gr4yb3ard]

Makes perfect sense.

The V of the bearing holder is bending, the bearings miss the grooves in the head as they are no longer parrallel.

A bit of material and some 'poxy cures that should have been a strut between the bearing centers, at least...

Good fix, might last for centuries, who knows? ;-)

Thanks! Good engineering!

Gr4yb3ard
" ...hoist sail and poxy that mainmast laddies! ..."
"..aarg, yes, I've seen the devil hisself, wear'in his fine velvet cloak..."

[Rogan]

I got it off the 4#3 thread on RCGroups. Lots of info there if you don't mind a 'bit' of reading.

[Gr4yb3ard]

Well,

That was a good fix, been having trouble with the bearing holder bending, thanks again to my fanged friend.

Maybe I can offer a tip, when doing the mod, I used glass micro-balloons, (available from aircraft spruce and supply) they are hollow and when mixed with epoxy, drastically reduce the weight. They also make it easier to carve after it sets, and you can mix up a paste, so you don't have to chase the runs until it sets.

You can also use ground styrofoam, cream of wheat ect....

Well, I'm off to RCgroups as suggested, but a couple more questions on the 4#3 while I'm here.

1. It flies, but then darts off in one direction or another, requireing massive stick throws to correct, if it's done soon enough. Normal?, maybe I need to develop a new set of reflexes?, or is this an indication of slow servos, or not enough throw?

2. I was tickled to discover the rascal has a gyro in it! But mine is set way to high and it wags incessantly. Do any of you know if there is a gain pot on the receiver before I tear off the cover?

TIA

Gr4yb3ard
" ....no, that's not real flying. REAL flying is when you have screaming passengers in back...."

[Rogan]

Well it is pretty squirrelly, mine gets away from me quite often.

The wagging tail comes from a few different things. I get it when the gears aren't meshing properly, the knightshead pin is too tight, the tail is a bit wobbly (splintering inside the mount), or the gyro isn't being held firmly by the tape. I actually removed my 4in1 from the packaging, put it in heatshrink, used a Futaba style gyro pad, and held it down lightly with rubber tape. ( I just got fed up with it)

More often than not i find it's the tail boom that needs to be taken out have 5mm cut off it and remounted.

[Gr4yb3ard]

Okay, lot's of engineering issues, that's what I like about helis ;-)

Thanks fanged one!

Gr4yb3ard
"I noticed your Houston, UK address, and I speak to you from Houston, USA, go figure.."

[Gr4yb3ard]

Well, no new posts on the Walky, so i'm off darting about in a different direction.. ;-)

This was fun though, you guys are cool, Be safe, look me up on the GAUI200 or REX-450 forums!

Gr4yb3ard
" ... another day, another <splat>, heli...."

[milwiron]

I've had heli's back to the days of Schluter Heli-Babys up to more recently a Mini-Zoom. I've had more fun with my Walkera 52-1 then I ever did with the MZ.
I usually hack into a heli as soon as I get it with my own mods. I like sub-micro flying but hate fixed pitch tail motors. So here are a few pics of my 52-1 with a variable pitch tail and brushless motor. I have hundreds of flights on this setup with no changes. I got the idea from two guys, roffey and mahbouni, on another forum.
Personally I think a rear brushless tail motor and variable pitch tail rotor take up less power than a belt drive.

I had a Shogun I wish I would have stuck a motor on the tail like this.

PS. The VP tail rotor and boom supports came off my Mini-Zoom... which I don't miss.

[Gr4yb3ard]

Well...

I just ordered a handfull of parts from BPHobbies, I'm gonna rebuild the head on my 4#3 and see if I can't get some semblance of controlled flight out of it.

I *KNOW* it should work, 'cause you guys told me so!

But it's not a flyer as yet. ;-(

I WILL HAVE, a very small indoor heli, a 200 heli, a 450 heli, and a 600 heli. Actually, I've got all of them, all but one is actually <controllable!>.

All categories will someday do 3d, though I'll give the Walky a little breathing room, as it does'nt have the collective, a 'least till the 4g3 shows up.

Gr4yb3ard - SERIOUS ABOUT SUB-300'S!!
"...I've seen him like this before... ...what should we do?... ...call California, China, Taiwan, and Korea. We gotta find a monster 10" or less 3d machine, before we're both beggin' change on the freakin' streetcorner!..."

[carmando11]

I noticed that my walkera 5g6 had terrible TBE right out of the box. After a ton of experimenting, i found i needed to tighten the blades, really tighten the blades. Its strange because the blades on my 5 #10 are very loose and it performs great...