Loctite on Carbon Fiber Frame

[asong26]

Experts, please chime in:

There numerous conflicting advice on multiple forums and threads regarding the usage of loctite (Threadlock).

I am ready to begin the 're-build' of the Predator Gasser which I bought from Minnesota. It came with everything built structurally about 80%. I wanted to rebuild the heli for 3 reasons.

1. Replace known to be faulty items such as the Clutch.
2. Take out the engine and ship it to Toxic Al for his stage 1 mod.
3. Really get to know the heli from ground up.

During the heli break-down, I was able to remove all of the screws with reasonable amount of torque. I believe the original builder had used the blue thread lock. In my opinion, this is a good thing for future maintenance.

As I think about putting it all back together, I took the time to research numerous threads that talked about predator gasser build (to learn from other's experiences of parts coming lose, etc..,)

One area of confusion is the threadlock. Many people are saying "Be sure to Loctite Everything!!". On some of the other forums, there is a disucssion that talks about NOT applying loctite on carbon fiber frames.

So what's the real verdict on the gassers? Should I really loctite everything, or should the loctite only be applied to Metal-to-Metal connections?

:bomb:

[BarracudaHockey]

Locktite only cures in the presence of metal to metal contact.

It will attack certian plastics and make them brittle, don't know what it would do to CF but I only locktite metal to metal.

Blue locktite on screws, green locktite for bearing retention.

All that being said, I've never worked on or built a large gasser.

[asong26]

Thanks Andy,

I am not an expert either. If my assumptions are correct, much of the debate is based on the added vibration on the gassers.

Does anyone else have anything else to add to this?

[Rodney]

Im no expert, except at crashing. But you will need to use loctite on all frame bolts.
I loctite everything on my predators except the set screws. Just put it on the bolt and you will have no problems with the carbon fiber. Make sure you check the controll balls that screw ionto the plastic parts, use med. c/a on those. And any other bolt that goes in to the plastic like the bell mixer arm bolts. When tearing down the heli, the 6 screws that hold the tail transmission on, remove the back 4 first, them move box up and down while breaking loose the 2 counter sunk ones as this will help them come loose instead of stripping out the hex.

[asong26]

Thanks Rodney,

I just sent you a PM.

[BarracudaHockey]

Rod, what are the frame bolts screwing into? Metal cross members I'd assume?

[Rodney]

Yes all the frame bolts screw into bearing blocks or metal frame spacers.

[BarracudaHockey]

Thats what I thought, then it only makes sense that locktite is appropriate.

[asong26]

Make sure you check the controll balls that screw ionto the plastic parts, use med. c/a on those. And any other bolt that goes in to the plastic like the bell mixer arm bolts.

Rodney,

Can you clarify? What are control balls? Do you mean steel balls for the ball link that screw onto the servo arms and wheels?

[Rodney]

Yes as well as the ones in the washout arms, bell cranks, tail pitch lever. Make sure all those are put in with c/a. the ones in the metal bell mixer arms, swash plate and other metal parts need loctite.

[asong26]

Thanks Rodney. BTW, I found the thread that discussed Bearing Block mods. It had clear pictures. I now understand how it's done.

Thanks!