View Full Version : Swift Build Videos will be HERE!
01-16-2007, 07:44 AM
Bob, I have justed fitted the metal grips and they are way too tight on the blades, 0.8mm to thin, just wondering if yours are the same?
Blades are NHP Razor Pro with 12mm root
01-16-2007, 12:23 PM
Well I got the grips from century but they are the wrong ones (spindle bearing is too small)... We are in process of getting the proper grips. I will let you know when I get them BUT I am using 550 Raptor blades.
01-16-2007, 12:33 PM
I've been in touch with Century UK, they tell me the grips are designed to fit the stock woodies and Rotor Tech 515's.
I figure the stock root thickness on 90% of '.30' sized blades is 12mm, which makes the Century grips at 11.2mm pretty much useless, unless you don't mind spending £70 (about $130) on a set of carbon blades....
Mine are either going back (if I can now they're built), getting filed bigger or going towards the bin :bomb:
01-16-2007, 12:37 PM
The grips I have in hand now which have the worng spindle bearings do fit the Raptor 550 carbon blades.
01-17-2007, 01:02 AM
Can you measure the blade root thickness please Bob? The TT blades are cheap enough for me over here, and if they save me modding the grips I'll go with them.
02-22-2007, 07:05 PM
excellent videos. i bought my swift second hand, not sure if the balls are CA'ed in or not.
i am so excited about the video, that i feel like taking the bird apart just so then i can put it together again as per video instructions
does anyone know if the ARF version of the swift is all CA'ed in?
02-22-2007, 10:05 PM
I doubt the balls are CA'd into the plastic. That is my thing to do and while it may be argued it is not needed, I like to do it. I personally would dissasemble the ARF and build it like a kit... Thats my opinion.
03-25-2007, 09:31 PM
Hey bob, which servos did you use on cyclic? it looks like futaba 3004's, but i cant tell for sure.
03-26-2007, 08:20 AM
I originally did use 3004's but after flying it I have since put in 9252's. The 3004 worked but didnt center very well!!!
03-26-2007, 01:17 PM
sweet thanks! Great videos btw!
04-30-2007, 08:04 PM
First off, let me say thanks for making these videos and sharing them with all of us. I am pretty new the helicopters and I just started my first build. Your videos are going to be a great help. I have the Swift 16 kit with an upgraded metal rotor hub and hardened feathering shaft. Everything else is stock.
My question has to do with how much to tighten the blade grips. It seems that you really torqued down the grips when you screwed them into the rotor hub. On mine, just tightening the two screws with a pair of allen wrenches between my thumb and index finger is enough to get the grips to where they don't want to rotate very easily.
Everything feels smooth, not grainy or restricted in any way. I am pretty sure I have assembled everything correctly. I have triple checked it all. As soon as I tighten the grips up they don't move too well. They still feel smooth, but it seems like I have to put too much pressure on the Bell mixing arms to move them. If I unscrew the grips to the point where they move freely again, then they are only finger tight.
This can't be right. Doesn't it sound like there is something wrong? I know it would be nearly impossible for you to tell me what the problem is without handling the assembly. If you had to guess, what does it sound like?
I did not check this before assembly, but is the hardened feathering shaft the exact same length as the old standard part? The old feathering shaft would not fit in the metal hub, so I took the new hardened shaft from a new crash hit I purchased. If this new shaft was a little shorter I would think that might be the problem.
05-01-2007, 10:00 AM
Sounds like the machining of the metal head or spindle is off causing binding... Are you sure you have the dampeners pressed ALL the way into the head? Thay can be tuff to get seated all the way...
Since you have the plastic head, etc try putting that to gether and see if you have the same problem... If not then something is off... Compare the width of the metal head and spindle to the plastic one. they should be the same dimensions (length os spindle and head width).
Also you really should post questions like this in the swift forum as Swift sponspred pilots do answer questions there and they may not see the question here!
05-28-2007, 12:39 AM
Hey Bob, any inkling to go flybarless on your Swift? If yes, there's a huge demand for the video. :wink:
05-28-2007, 09:31 AM
Hey Bob, any inkling to go flybarless on your Swift? If yes, there's a huge demand for the video.
No.... why are there a lot of people going flybarless??? I know the logo has a version.. I saw another guy try to make a Trex600 flybarless but it was not very successful.
05-28-2007, 10:45 AM
Yup. There is interest to make the Swift go flybarless. One guy did it with the (expensive) V-stabi. If there's a way to mod the swift to go flybarless without the V-stabi, then you would be the Dude to do it. :noteworthy
Anyway, just an idea. Thanks for the fantastic videos.
07-24-2007, 01:20 PM
Just wanted to say thanks for all the great video's. I"m new to the heli world "otherwise a plank flier" and picked up a gently used swift. Your video's have been a huge help when it came down to tearing down and reassembling the heli. Because of your videos, I've put about 15 learning flights on the heli without a crash. I'm accounting this to your setup videos.
True RC 15C 6s1p 4000mah packs
07-24-2007, 02:52 PM
I too say thank you!! it helped me lots bob!! heres my 3rd ever flight on my swift, breaking in the lipo!
Thanks for everything you do for us bob!
07-24-2007, 02:59 PM
Lookin good Eric! Nice flyin too....
Whats that weird eeeeky squeeky sound in the video? I hope your heli doesnt really sound like that?
07-25-2007, 01:10 AM
hahah, thats loose covering on the blades...good ole woodies there! ill have some CF soon, youll like the vids then:) especially now that im used to the heli a little more:D
07-26-2007, 10:18 PM
I've got an odd problem I'm hoping you can help with. I'm in the process of choosing servo wheels for the 550, and while the pitch and aileron bellcranks are the same as the bellcranks on the standard Swift, the elevator uses a push/pull arrangement rather than a link from the servo directly to the swash. The balls on the elevator bellcrank are spaced at approx. 23mm, a full 2mm less than the balls on the other servos. The manual calls for a total length arm of 20-22mm. Obviously that's going to cause some interaction. Should I just use an elevator arm spaced at 23mm?
07-26-2007, 10:37 PM
The spacing on elevator is probably different becasue the bell crank for elevator has the ball going to the swash closer in than the bell cranks for ail and pitch.
I dont know for sure but I would guess this is why they are telling you this.
Look at the bell cranks and check all 3. If the geometry is the same for all 3 then I would say YES use the same spacing. If not then do what they are telling you or you will for sure get interactions.
07-26-2007, 11:02 PM
Thank you Bob!
The geometry is definitely different-as in your vid's I've got 20.5 at ail and pitch but elevator is 1:1 at 24mm. I'll give the manual's recommendation a shot and see how it goes. Kinda funny how they set this one up, but I'm sure my highly-calibrated eyeballs will be able to see any problems before I get TOO far with setting up the rest of the links!
07-31-2007, 08:09 PM
Ok just a short note for those building the carbon Swift-The balls on the elevator bellcrank are 24mm center to center, however like the pitch and aileron bellcranks the bellcrank itself is at 20.5mm, so you need 12mm spacing on your servo arm.
If you space it as per the manual (20-22mm) you will get ccpm interaction-looks like Century updated the pics but not the text from the standard Swift instructions.
08-01-2007, 07:06 AM
CRAP..... I understand what your saying based on PM's and toher info you shared with me. Century NEEDS to get the docs right on this heli!
08-01-2007, 07:37 AM
Hey no worries Bob! As always the info in your vid's is dead-nuts accurate and the spacing you recommend IS correct for the Swift 16. Chances are now that the 550 is out more people will be viewing your vid's and I just thought this little bit of info might come in handy for them.
Besides, with you and the Freak around, we don't need no stinkin' manuals! :noteworthy