JR Venture 30 tips.

[hurgh]

Hi All,

I am newish to the chopper flying, I have had my JR Venture 30 for a while now (nearly 2 years) but due to work and life in general, have not had time to fly it much.

I have just finished re-building after a small stack and have decided that the stack was due to bad setup.

I was wanting some help from other JR Venture 30 owners or people that have experience with these about some small details.

First up, can someone give me a basic pitch and throttle curve setup for the different modes, including what the main blade pitch should be for the different stick positions in each mode, and what the throttle curve should look like for each mode.

I know this info is specific to each person and chopper, but a place to start would be much appreciated.

I also have a question RE the led weights for the paddles. I had to get new paddles due to the crash that I had, and have fitted them, but have not put the led weights in them. Can someone please explain to me, if and why I need these, and also how to fit them if I do need them. There is little holes in the paddles for the weights, but do I need to balance them or something?

I have been to a club in my area and some people there were nice enough to give me some pointers, and I was told a brief setup for pitch and throttle but I have forgotten.

I have plenty more questions, but that will get me started. :)

Thanks for any help.

-Hurgh-

[Hal]

The curves in the manual are enough to get you started.

I use -2 at low, +5 at mid, and +10 at high for pitch and 0, 60, 100 for throttle in hover mode.

Hal

[hurgh]

Thanks for that Hal, I have already set this part up as per the book, so that is one off the list.

Does anyone else have any answers for the other questions?

Thanks

-Hurgh-

[Paul Hinz]

The lead weights for the paddles help with the how fast the heli reacts. The more weight in the paddles the more stable the heli is and requires more control movement to get it moving and stop it. The people I have helped with the Venture 30 I tell to leave them out and none of those people have had a problem flying that way.

Paul

[hurgh]

Thanks for the info Paul,

I had no idea that is what they were for, I assumed that they were for balance or something, so that is good to know. Since they are already out, I will leave them out for now and see how I go.

-Hurgh-

[kb3crh]

The weight of the paddles has a direct impact on the sensitivity of the cyclic controls. The heavier the paddles the less sensitive, slow to change, and tamer the bird feels.

If you're comfortable hovering without training gear you can get more sensative by removing weights. I removed a pair at a time. Once comfortable with the unweighted training paddles I graduated to the 3D paddles which was a significant change. After I adjusted to that I installed the ball extenders to the swashplate and adjusted the links for 3D.

I'm now to the point were I'm comprtable flying around the field with the 3D setup. I'm not comfortable with my engine performance though so I haven't tried any flips yet.

Have fun.

[Helimarty]

yo one thing the venture 30 gets a bit of slope in the blade crips so its hard to get it right on the gauge in normal mode i sit +10 at the top then i hover then hit it if it goes up fast then its good .....adjust the top a little at a time till it sounds nice and goes up

after i do that and it climbs nice i check the gauge i get +12 most of the time
so get it close with the gauge then play with it a bit
just be safe with ya radio use the throttle lock before you play around you dont want to flick a switch be mistake and ya bird does a chicken
my hitec is great for this i can lock it and go through all my modes chopper runnin a front of me

my setup is
normal -3 +5.5 +12 0 60 100
st 1 -12 0 +12 100 80 60 80 100
st2 -12 0 +12 100 80 70 80 100
it rips around a have the 3 D paddles and a youngblood pipe

ergo 30 blade grips will fix a little of the slop and worth the $30 helps keep the the blade trackin as well