Ok I bought a Digital Caliper need some help with linkages

[MicroMan]

Im putting together a list of tools that Id like to have and thought about a Digtal Caliper. Ive havent seen Finless use one in his videos yet but maybe I missed that section.

[Trooper Sam]

You don't see it, but he frequently mentions it. I consider it a must have, and mine has helped me quite a bit.

[wren1702]

I use mine a lot, checking correct screw lengths, centering the flybar, measuring servo arms......etc.

[ClayK]

Yes, get one.

[BarracudaHockey]

You will use it freqently, mine isn't digital but I got it at harbor freight for pretty cheap, came in a case and all. Ricks sells something called a vario pushrod tool which clips to the calipers for making very precise pushrods.

If you take the time to setup your heli exactly you will be rewarded with a smooth, fine flying helicopter.

[ferincr]

I love mine I use it all the time (I'm a pretty active DIYer) and as Barracuda said it doesn't need to be digital just don't get a plastic cheapo.
Then you'll find yourself using it all the time.
It's another one of those things that you can live very well without it, only if you never had one.

[Bayou Talker]

I have a Harbor Freight model too, but mine is digital. I think it was only about $16 and works great.

[dodgey]

I bought a digi-cal and both helis I built with it required only a click or 3 of trim to hover perfectlly on 1st flight. Not so with my other helis ;-)

[MicroMan]

Thanks guys for the advice I have one more question, Is a 6 inch caliper ok.

[z11355]

yes and no.

it'll do most everything EXCEPT measuring the seesaw/flybar/paddle distance to make
sure it's equal on a 60/90 class machine. For that, you would need an 8" caliper.

But an 8" caliper is bulkier than a 6" which is useful 98% of the time.

I use a Mitutoyo 6" caliper and a 12" mm ruled steel ruler.

The Mitu. is about 3-4x more expensive than the el-cheapo chinese calipers.

[z11355]

and the Vario 'nubs' (Rick's has them) for pushrod length setup are GREAT.

[MicroMan]

Thanks z11355 Im going to order a caliper shorty.

[aerangis]

and the Vario 'nubs' (Rick's has them) for pushrod length setup are GREAT.

I was wondering if there's an attachment for a micrometer that would make building pushrods easier.

Who is Rick and where do I get these "nubs"?

[z11355]

they're for caliper jaws, not a micrometer.

Rick's = Rick's RC Helicopters ----- www.ronlund.com

[BarracudaHockey]

Search his online store for VARIO

[z11355]

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=VAR11_86&Category_Code=

all you get are the 2 'nubs' that attach to your caliper jaws and they are tapered for
easy on/off of the links.

[MicroMan]

Hey guys I got the digital caliper yesterday and now I need some help. Do you measure the linkages using the Inside measuring jaws or do you use the Outside measuring jaws.

[z11355]

it depends.

whatever works for you.

I've used inside, outside and the nubs.

usually, the manual states the required length as 'exposed rod' (inner), 'overalll length' (outside),
or ball center2center (nubs) (or measure the hole and do the math.

[MicroMan]

Hey z11355 I think I figured it out thanks for the help.

[ferincr]

Hey guys I got the digital caliper yesterday and now I need some help. Do you measure the linkages using the Inside measuring jaws or do you use the Outside measuring jaws.
The Raptor manual states all the measures from center to center so, the way I do it is I measure the ball diameter, and add the measurement of the thickness of the wall of the exterior part of the link ( x2) and add all this to the meassure the manual says, that way I can use the caliper on the total out to out linkage. (the trims take care of the rest :) :) )
Fernando

[Pinecone]

If you get a Harbor Frieght one, stock up on batteries. Mine go dead in not too long a time, whether it is being used or not.

[rumroller]

Microman....There are two sets of "ears" on a decent set of calipers. One for measuring ID's and one for measuring OD's. Normally The ID ears are above the readout/Dial. And the OD ears are below. Use the ID ears to measure the ID of the link and subract that measurement from the measurement they give from center to center. That will be the the number your shooting for when measuring from the inside of one link to the inside of the other link when assembled to a pushrod. Use the OD ears to get that measurement.

[MicroMan]

thanks rumroller

[aerangis]

I have a Harbor Freight model too, but mine is digital. I think it was only about $16 and works great.

Same here. It's inexpensive but it works very well.