View Full Version : WTB Zenoah G230PUH Old or Seized
Looking for a complete but old or seized G230PUH. Crankcase should be good if possible, & must include flywheel & both coils...Thanks
All I need now is the piston, crankshaft, & bearings, not too much to ask I hope :lol:
PaulH
10-26-2006, 01:29 PM
Are you still looking for this? I have a 230PUH missing only the secondary coil and pull start. Everything else is there including a brand-new carburetor. Bearings, piston, head, etc appear to be in good condition.
If you're interested, I will post pictures for you tonight.
I now have all the parts I need thanks Paul
PaulH
11-12-2006, 08:58 AM
Great! I'm happy that I could help out. Let me know what you're doing with it. :)
It's the engine that's going into my scale 206B fuse. Well parts of it anyway. I took the engine apart & both rings were seized, lucky I did that. I'm lightening the piston & sending the crank down to Al at Hanson's for lightening as well. I new cylinder is going on that will be water cooled, I got the rad already. The water jacket is finned so will be air cooled as well with the Bergen fan & shroud setup. Two computer fans will cool the rad (one push the other pull) Turned on with an inline temp switch. A water pump will be used to push the water around with engine vacuum. I'm going to have to build a runup stand to test all this prior to stuffing it in the fuselage, I'd hate the engine to overtemp & seize while it's in the fuse.
PaulH
11-13-2006, 08:17 AM
I found some of the computer water cooling companies make products that would work well for your application. Go to http://www.xoxide.com/ and dig around. You'll find water pumps that work on 12 volts and radiators with large fans built in. You could power the whole thing from an unregulated 3s Li-Ion pack. They also sell the correct tubing and reservoir units.
You should probably consider using a reservoir. If the system is completely closed you will have to get just the right amount of water in so that it does not expand too much when it's hot and explode out of the tubing.
Come to think of it, the temperature switch is probably unnecessary. Remove it and save a little weight. :)
Thanks for the link Paul. I was thinking the temp switch would act like a thermostat allowing the engine to have a constant temp. I was also going to put the vertical fin position light in the circuit to indicate in flight when the fan was turned on or off. That would tell me the system was working. IF the switch stops the fan then I know the water temp has been sufficiently cooled, otherwise I'd have no clue.
PaulH
11-13-2006, 03:19 PM
Interesting idea! Let us know how that works out. Start a build thread in the Gasser topic.
Will do...but although I'm bringing parts together at the moment, I'm on the verge of moving across the country. So it will be some time before I get back to this project. It will be on the back burner for at least 8 or 9 months. I hope you can wait that long!
Gyan