ULTIMATE MOD OF THE SHOGUN FRAME (and one Walkera part)

[borneobear]

I drilled to a depth of about 1.5 cm. Then I took the ends of a bent up fly bar rod, cut it and inserted it into the hollowed canopy mount:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0613canopy5.jpg

I simply CA-ed the shaft onto the alum mount (arrow).

[borneobear]

Here's the end product:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0613canopy6.jpg

A solid mount with an unbreakeble screw.

Right. I off to the flying field.
Happy flying! :wink:

[borneobear]

Very nice flying weather off late. So today I tried my first series of loops, rolls and inverted hover:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/FIRSTINVERTPIC-1.jpg

I'm glad to say I didn't crash! :D

Here's a short vid of my flying, thanks to my gf who grumblingly agreed to video tape it (thanks honey!):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TwagDxd7PnU

[borneobear]

The vid in wmv, in case my youtube isn't clear.

[borneobear]

Well, my inverted hovers are getting lower, thanks to repositioning the lipo higher. Rolls are also 'easier'. Here's a vid of the heli trying to cut grass:

[borneobear]

Better pics and lower inverts. :wink:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/aaDSCF0671XXXqq.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/aaDSCF0676ees.jpg

[borneobear]

Grass cutting with heli gets you this:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/aaDSCF0679ee.jpg

[borneobear]

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/aaDSCF0683rr.jpg


Oh well. :roll:

[borneobear]

Well, I didn't think there was much more mods to do. But I guess this will never end. :?

Anyway, I'm using this to mount my motor:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0445-1.jpg

Which leaves me the original shogun motor mount to mod. I basically just cut it off at the yellow line and made two holes at the red dots:
http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0257.jpg

[borneobear]

I then flipped the two servo mountings over (the original front alum mount is now used to mount the motor mount - does that make sense?)

Anyway, I now have to front holes for my next mod (arrow):

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0555.jpg

[borneobear]

With these front mounting holes, I intalled a square alum plate (red arrow) that I bent at about 45 degrees. Mounting was via two nuts and bolts:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0691.jpg

I also added a support CF plate (?) - black arrow.

[borneobear]

The whole purpose of this was to make an elevated battery mount:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0685.jpg

Which functions likes so:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0687.jpg

[borneobear]

By elevating the battery higher, my horizontal center of gravity shifts higher. As I understand it, the closer the C of G is to the tail boom line, the easier it is to roll the heli.
Well, I don't know is this is the way to check horizontal C of G, but here's how I do it:

Hang the heli as close as possible to the tail boom line - by the main gear : :mrgreen:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0695xx.jpg

And I find my head side is now slightly heavier:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0696xx.jpg

[borneobear]

I noted three improvements by doing this mod:

1) Its now very easy to install and take out the Lipo batt due to is being closer to my canopy opening:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0684.jpg

2) My canopy now does not carry any of the lipo weight - therefore I can grind down the canopy further to lose weight.

and 3) I DOES ROLL BETTER!!!! :D :D

I love this hobby. :wink:

[borneobear]

A vid of the CCPM mechanism: layout & movement:

[borneobear]

It feels real weird not having anything else to do -mechanically - to this bird. Its flying perfectly.


I'm bored. :(


Anyway, Chopchop at RCGroups posted this wiring diagram to improve power distribution:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/chop12170002.jpg

Original post:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=6569199&postcount=23

[borneobear]

I modified it very very slightly to improve it further. The wiring basically involves A, B and C. "A" is to improve Earth by having an additional wire to the negative return. B is to improve positive (volt/power) to the two servos which work hardest at keeping the heli up in the air and another to the gyro (also power hungry). And C is where all the positive points from the servo to the BEC meet up.
Very simple really.

Will post pictures of the set up.
Happy flying.

[borneobear]

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/chop12170002-1.jpg

ENUFF SAID.

[borneobear]

Well, I haven't posted much mods lately. Mainly cuz there hasn't been any. :D Which I think is a good sign that my model has finally reached its equillibrium.

I did however run into a weak spot yesterday:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/BINDING.jpg

The arrow above points to my servo arm connected to the push-pull rod. I'm using an aircraft connector (easy to adjust rod lenght). Where this connector is bolted to the plastic servo arm, I found tons of BINDING.

[borneobear]

Here's the offending item:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0719SS.jpg

The plastic hole where the connector is bolted to binds it as its bolt is tightened. If it is tightened too much, it will bind more, while if I tighten too little, it starts to wobble. :(

[borneobear]

Here's the solution:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0719-1.jpg

I use these copper bushings that were lying around my tool box.

[borneobear]

I can't recall where they came from, but I think it was from my original #36 bird's see-saw arm support:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0720-1.jpg

[borneobear]

All I had to do was file the copper bushings to exactly the height of the servo arm, drilled a hole JUST big enough for it to be pushed in. Here's the end product:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0721-1.jpg


http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e218/borneobear/DSCF0722-1.jpg

[borneobear]

By lining the servo arm with copper bushing, I feel very little binding of the servo rod connector.
Obviously to get rid of all the binding - bearings should be used. But I don't have that size at the moment. Another way would be to use servo ball links.
But for now, I'm happy with my copper bushings.

Happy flying! :wink:

[borneobear]

Flying in the highlands of Borneo...