CP BL Conversion

[Dustman]

I installed the brush to brush-less kit; 3800 KV outrunner,sonix 18A esc w/5V2A Beck, HDX brush-less adapter. IT WORKS!! I can't believe it. No problems with the tail rotor. I'm using the stock CP frame and a 1300mah TP under the belly. I don't have any times to share for battery comparison yet. Power is drastically improved. This kit ran me $87.21 + shipping. You might be able to buy the pieces individually cheaper. I think it will be a great improvement if the converter holds up. After watching the Finless vid on programing the esc for the HDX 300, it turns out the motor & esc used in my setup is the same as the ones used on the 300. The only difference is the addition of the brush-less converter. So if you install this kit, you could use the Finless vid to setup the electronics. That's very cool! :D

[Speed_Freak_039A]

Were did you get this kit? Now by no tail rotor problems what do you mean? Are you talking about burning up motors or the tail holding. I have a stock CP regular and its so hard to fly because the tail wont hold and it comes and goes, besides it takes almost full power just to hover.

[Dustman]

Hi Speed_Freak, I looked up the item number for you on e-bay. It is
# 290045633948 This kit includes: (1) brush-less out runner motor,
(1) brush-less esc, (1) brushed to brush-less converter that plugs in where your current brushed motor now plugs in to the 4in1. There are others I've read about that complain they don't have control over the tail once they install the kit, but all I did was to solder in a new tail motor before flying the first time. It sounds like your brushes are gone in your motors if it takes full power to hover. Soon, it won't get off the floor. That is the purpose of this kit. Hope this helps! :D

[Speed_Freak_039A]

Sweet thankx, What about a tail motor? Will the stock one be fine? And I would really like to get a gyro on it if possible.

[Dustman]

The stock motor is what I am using on mine. You won't need a gyro. When you install the kit. you will be instructed to plug right in to the 4in1 receiver already on your bird. Follow the instructions closley, and you will see it's a snap!!

[Speed_Freak_039A]

So your saying it will fly just fine by using the brushless main. How does that solve the tail not holding? Thankx, Nick. P.S. The kit on ebay seems like a good deal, thankx for the link.

[Dustman]

I would guess you have some hours on your motors, and the brushes burn very quick in the motors of the Blade CP especially the tiny little tail motor. So, what I say is replace your motor(s) with new ones to fix the low power problems. If you install the kit, you must still replace the tiny tail motor with a new one. You''ll be surprised how quickly the tail settles down when it has a motor w/good brushes (which equals power). Next, be sure to read near the back of your owners manual in the 4in1 adjustment section. You have two little adjusting screws on the left side of the 4in1 to control how fast the tail rotor responds, and to balance the left and right response of the tail rotor.

[Rebuild]

Are you using the stock xmtr?

[Speed_Freak_039A]

yeah.

[Rebuild]

Oops! I Just told somone a computer xmtr would be needed to have some control over the head speed. What pinion are you running now and what is your head speed?

[Speed_Freak_039A]

Its all stock. I dont know the HS, never checked it.

[Rebuild]

The conversion doesn't appear to come with a pinion? Do you use the pinion off of stock motor? Which pinion and how many teeth? Is this a 2mm shaft? I think I will get this conversion for my moderately obese BCP.

[Pinecone]

Stock trnasmitter is a non-programable computer Tx. :) It does the mixing needed.

And here is a fix for tail motor life:

http://bladecp.corocks.com/

[perseverance8]

I have the same brushless setup, I purchased mine from helidirect.com it was just under $80.00, I originally used a 8T pinion and it did'nt seem to have good power until I switched to a 9T and noticed a dramatic improvement, also if youre gonna do more than just basic slow manuvers I would highly recommend the GWS Direct Drive tail mod that is described on bladecprepair.com all of the parts were barely under $20 shipped from towerhobbies, I have tested several batteries with this setup and the best one I found was the sonix 11.1v 1300MAh 15C battery I purchased from helidirect.com it costs $20 and it is MUCH better than the other $20 li-po's that I have tested it is also smaller and lighter and is about the size of a 900MAh li-po.

[Rebuild]

Is the E-Flite 370 3800KV inrunner system more capable than the HD outrunner package? I don't hear many "ooohs and aaahs" about the HD outrunner mod.

[carlo_the_wonder_frog]

Not sure if its more capable, probably has a little less torque due to its inrunner design, but can probably rev higher. A 9t pinion should work well for the 3800 KV, its perfect for my Hacker 3700kv.

[Rebuild]

Does the BL ESCs BEC need to be disabled and where do you hang the BL ESC to keep RFI away from the rcvr?

[carlo_the_wonder_frog]

Yes the Brushless ESC's BEC needs to be disabled, just remove the red wire from the connector. I have my ESC taped to the top of the 3-in-1. No glitching problems.

[Rebuild]

Thanks! I didn't know it could be mounted so close to the receiver and 3in1. Does E-Flite or Heli direct show a mounting configuration for there BL conversions anywhere? I just once would like to see a picture of the finished installations. One more question...the outrunner motor wires are quite long. Can these be shortened or is that a no-no?

[Pinecone]

Wire length between ESC and motor is not critical. Wire length between battery and ESC should not be lengthened.

[carlo_the_wonder_frog]

The shorter the better on all wiring.

[Rebuild]

I think I got the notion that the wires from the motor should not be shortened from a Finless video when I was setting up a Trex. Also, seems like I read somewhere that the wires were seen as part of the motor winding load by the the ESC. I guess that's why I was kind of reluctant to shorten them. :dontknow Thanks for the info!

[Rebuild]

I think I got the notion that the wires from the motor should not be shortened from a Finless video when I was setting up a Trex. Also, seems like I read somewhere that the wires were seen as part of the motor winding load by the the ESC. I guess that's why I was kind of reluctant to shorten them. :dontknow Thanks for the info!

[Skiddz]

Somewhere in this pig-sty I call my office/hobby/music room I have docs that clearly say not to shorten motor wires, but I don't recall if there was a reason given.

[Pinecone]

Hmm, I would like to "see" that. Everything I have read says motor-> ESC lengthis not critical.

And of course I am never wrong. :)