Are the Logo heads naturally tighter than other helis?

[cptsnoopy]

My stretched Logo10 deluxe has all bearing upgrades and new dumper rubbers/washers, I have reasonably loose ball links using a JR ball sizing tool but the head is still fairly stiff. My little Trex's and my eRaptor are free to flop around and the ball links on those are not sloppy loose either. I did not try to loosen up the large ball links on the flybar but I doubt if they are 100% of the problem. I thought that the whole head would loosen up after some flying time but this thing has at least 30 flights on it and if anything it is getting worse. any ideas?

[Lorents]

Hello,

The large links on the flybar tend to be a bit stiff in the beginning but should free up after a while. Rstacy on RR suggested mounting the large flybar ball on a drill and polish it with aluminum polish - sounded like an excellent idea.

Try detatching the large links from the mixer arms and see if the flybar still is stiff. If it is it might be a good idea to take it off and check if there is anything binding. I had to trim away some burrs on the plastic seesaw to get it totally smooth on one of my Logos.

If you have the deluxe kit with dampeners that are two large O-rings and one smaller rubber O-ring on each side it might also be the smaller O-ring rubbing against the blade grips. I guess you can either live with this or get the medium or hard dampener kit - they have a plastic spacer instead of the smaller O-ring.

Hope this makes any sense... tired and going to bed now :)

Lorents

[cptsnoopy]

Thanks, I will look into polishing the large aluminum balls and checking the system for binding with the ball links off. I changed to the medium hard damper kit before the first flight because of that friction issue. :)

[MrMel]

Another common issue is that if you tighten the 4 bolts on the top too hard, they will push out the bearrings towards the flybar cage and make it sticky, you can test how much is good by taking of the two link-arms to the flybar and move them by hand, do you have resistance? Try loosen those screws a bit.

[cptsnoopy]

thanks I will try that too. :)

[enigma]

I could not find the bearings for the flybar locally, they are an odd size, but I did have some with a 5mm bore. I have an old south bend lathe so I turned up a new spindle (#940) but changed the ends to 5mm which is stronger anyway. I was amazed at how much this loosened up my flybar and at the different feel while flying. If I wasn't in a hurry I would've ordered the bearings, you should try them out.

[enigma]

I just picked up another Logo 10 and the flybar is glass smooth! You can blow on it and it will move. I compared it to my deluxe 06 and found that the Logo I just got has the ball raced mixing arms. They make a huge difference on the stiffness of the fly bar.

[cptsnoopy]

Thanks for the info. I have upgraded to all bearings in the head, no bushings. That was before I started this thread. I will need to take it apart one piece at a time to see what part gives... :D

[Finless]

The Logo 14 I built for will was also very smooth and I did not have to do the polish trick on the big links.

Bob

[theLane]

Hey, my Logo 10 Deluxe flybar is a little too stiff as well I think. Where did you get the ball raced mixing arms from?

[Lorents]

Hello,

You can get the ballraced mixing arms from any Mikado dealer. Just download the Logo 10 3D manual and get the part #'s from it. Here is a link to the manual:

http://mikado.e-vendo.de/imgmi/download/logo103d_manual_july2005.pdf

Not sure if its the cure you are looking for though - I have the non-ballraced mixing arms on one of my Logo 10's and its very smooth.

[enigma]

One thing I found is that there is a "rib" on the newer heads, just below the see saw carrier. This rib can rub on the carrier causing stiffness. I took a dremel and shaved it down just a touch and it helped a lot. I believe it is a stop for the flybar, but my older logo does not have it at all.