Swift Emoli Charging?

[furyphoto]

Who is running emolis on a Swift, and which chargers are you using to charge them?

I am in the process of buying a swift, and I am at a loss as to which charger and balancer to buy.

Is ther any reason why one couldn't use the Milwaukee V28 Charger to charge a 7s pack? Has anyone ever tried?

Thanks,

-A

[TJRIDE]

I am running emoli's on my swift and I am using an Astro 109 with TP210 Balancer. Works flawlessly.

TJ
:glasses2:

[litespeed]

I run 8s emoli on my Swift and charge with a TP 1010/TP210 charger/balancer combo. Nothing but good things to say about the whole set-up.

I would recommend the A123 cells instead of the emolis, might as well start with the latest and greatest since they cost the same. Read up on them here,

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=566256

Enjoy the reading.

Tom

[furyphoto]

What motors are you guys running on your swifts, I am planning to eventually use it for AP, so I would rather pay a little more now, and have the power I need later. Any recommendations, gladly accepted.
-A

[furyphoto]

Jeeze, now I have to reasearch A123's before I decide now too!

[TomC]

Not really Andrew, If you want to do AP work you will want the best power/weight ratio you can get. You will only get this with good quality Lipos.

Cheers,

Tom C

[furyphoto]

Eventually I will go lipo, but I have to learn to fly first! I want to start with the emolis/A123 because it will give me more practice time for the money.

I just cant get my head around how to choose a motor/ power combination

-A

[Tim Tompkins]

Get a Zpower Z30 from tppacks.com or a century 600+ the same thing. You will have more power than you need. This is from someone that never had enough power before. It cost me $ 79.00 and worth twice or three times by comparison to the others. No joking , this motor runs cooler and longer than any I have seen and for the value none compare. I use 6S emolis now because the 7S pack was heavy and the headspeed was over 2300 on a nine tooth pinion. I want to get a 6S lipo but too much money. TimT

[daredevil666]

whats the flight time with 7s emoli and zpower Z30 engine????

Thanks

[Tim Tompkins]

7S was 5.30 and 6S gets 6.00 with about 2350mah's put back either way. Thats flips rolls ect not just cruising. Less time because of the drag 2300+ puts on it, I guess. If you you want more time you might have to go with a different cell type not #. These cells are only rated for 15C and at the most 3000 Mha's. The good part is durability and price. TimT

[frankos72]

I use 6S emolis now because the 7S pack was heavy and the headspeed was over 2300 on a nine tooth pinion. TimT

I've seen this over and over again. What I can't understand is why can't the headspeed be controlled but lowering the throtle curve in your controller? It would seem to me that you could just run the motor at say 80-90% max in the curve and it would lower the headspeed and probably help the motor run cooler and the battery last longer.

This is really what I have been planning to do(same setup swift16, CC45HV, 600+, 7s Emoli) and I'd love to know why it Won't work before I try.

[Tim Tompkins]

I think the esc just turns the amps you dial out into heat, not send them back to the battery. I'm just a flier but it is my experience that everything in the heli works better if you use gearing, not settings to control headspeed. If you expect to need a lot longer flight time, use a battery with more capacity. These have 3000 mha rating, you can get many other lipos with larger ratings. Just beware of the trade off. You could double up the cells and get more capacity and weigh so much you don't have fun. TimT

[RAV50]

It is much more efficient to control head speed by using the appropriate pinion for the speed you desire relative to the KV rating of your motor and the Voltage of your flight pack. In this way there is no efficiency loss through the ESC.

[frankos72]

so how is it then that so many people are safely flying(headspeed not too hight) the 600+ with 7s emolis on the swift?

Also, does this mean that if I spend alot of time flying in Normal mode and just hovering that It's actually less effecient than flying full out 3d in IDLE UP 1 or 2 with lot's of headspeed?

[litespeed]

I run the same head speed in normal and idle 1&2 just normal ramps up and idle 1 & 2 are set at 95%.

Pretty much or so no matter where the ESC is set the battery is still being drawn full power just some goes to heat instead of RPMs. You can get a Z-30 with a lower KV to run more cells but hindsight being 20/20 I would have gone with a 6s. I run an 8s with the NEU 1910-1.5Y and while it's hot as hell (read-powerful!) it's also quite heavy and I get the same 6 to 6.5 mins with a tached out 2100 rpm headspeed.

So I ask, "Why go heavier?"

Tom

[rcmarty]

Swift 16 , 1910/1.5y , 9t , ph45 hv , 9 emoli's , 401/9254 , 3151's , 2000-2100 on head , 530 funkey glass blades , 6.5 min flights , AUW 6.7 lbs (3.06kg).

I charge with tp 1010c and the 210 balancer.

Flights are 6.5 mins , i could go 7-7.5 but all it does is heat up the packs.

Motor temps are 100-115 , packs are 100.
Motor cooling hole on canopy blocked by pack.

I fly back to back packs only breaking to change packs and walk to flight line.

Peak draws are about 1000w , peak amps at 35 amps.

Battey packs are up front vertically like the trex 600. Tight fit but i found the roll rate sooo much better, only 1.5 cells are in the stock location (below the tray) and the rest are above :)

I also fly a raptor 50 with hyper , 600 funkey glass blades , 30% cp , 401/9254 , etc.

These 2 machines are very, very close in performance. I'm not a top 3d guy but i can do some rough 3d. As i get better i can feel the weight of the emoli's more and more, but this setup will take you far for cheap !

As i undertand the 123's in there supplied form (dewalt 36 volt pack - pull out and put a lead on it and shrink it) will provide more amps and loose 300 ish grams in weight. I'm told this will make a huge difference in my swift. Looking forward to it :) I'm also trying to get the same packs to fly the trex 600 but well see , not alot of HV info out there on the t600.

This is a good flyer and i reccomend it.

To answer the original post directly : I charge with the 1010/210 combo , i charge at 1 c , and use the balancer everytime. I have 4 packs so i don't need to do a fast recharge at the field.

I reccomend using the balancer everytime as the emoli's can 'run away' on you (cell overvolts). When the cells are new they overvolt a fair bit but get better over time. Worth noting they still will run once in a while and that's where the 1010c/210 combo comes in real handy. If a cell goes over the balancer via the data cord will terminate the charge and save the pack.


Martin :)

[AeroMattics]

Andrew,

I too decided to use a Swift for AP work, but it was also my first heli. I knew that learning to fly basic maneuvers would be enough for AP, but learning some sport and 3D would make me a better pilot in the long run.

I started out with emolis for their cost effectiveness, and they were perfect for learning/practicing. Eventually, I found that for AP, the runtimes were just too short (4-6min). For $95-$105, I found that I could get a 5s or 6s (4000-5000mah) lipo which weighed the same or less than the emolis. My runtime increased to around 10-12min flights! These lipos are 10C compared to the 15C emolis but the higher capacities give room for a higher amp draws.

I recently put the 600+ in my Swift with a 9t pinion and it is the absolute perfect setup for AP,AV/Sport/3D. On 5s (5000mah) I am getting an 1860 HS which I like for AP and Sport flying. I am getting 9min flights and using about 70-80% capacity.
On 6s (4000mah) I am getting a 2070 HS which I like for Sport/3D. I'm getting 6-7 min flights and using about 70-80% capacity.

These 10C packs and the 600+ stay so much cooler than the emolis did with a Neu 1907. I have also noticed that the lipos tend to stay balanced better, my 210v had to work pretty hard when charging the emolis.

I'm also spinning 550mm blades for better lift and autos.

Anyway, I feel that the emolis are excellent batteries. They just don't give you much time when you strap on another 2-3lbs of AP gear. Looking back, I would have spent my $95-$105 on these 5/6s 10C lipos sooner!

[frankos72]

Andrew, where do you get a 4000-5000mah 5 or 6 s lipo for $100??? I'de be all over this if I knew where the were avaliable.

[furyphoto]

Andrew, where do you get a 4000-5000mah 5 or 6 s lipo for $100??? I'de be all over this if I knew where the were avaliable.


Wish I knew, but I think we have to ask Matt!

-A

[AeroMattics]

LOL, guess I should've mentioned that.

5s 5000mah packs can be had for $99 from Prodigy. www.prodigybatteries.com

6s 4000mah packs can be custom built by TrueRC for $105. www.truerc.com

Remember, these are 10C packs. If you're going for all out 3D the 20C packs will take the abuse much better.

Truerc will put TP taps on for you.
Prodigy builds their packs with a different style tap, but the wiring is straight thru with the TP tap. I just ordered a female lead from them and soldered a male TP lead to it, works perfect.