A few questions before I click the "purchase" button on a new 700N 3G!

[Justin Pucci]

Hey all,

So, I'm finally taking the plunge into a 700N after doing quite a bit of research on what to expect. :YeaBaby: Some of you may have seen my other thread asking about buying local or online...it's a done deal. I'll be buying online and saving over $400! :shock: Let's get right to it then...

Here's the familiar GrandRC custom combo setup that I've chosen with a few other details:

Ultimate 700N Flybarless Combo (Free US Shipping)
Flybarless Gyro: Align 3G
Engine: OS 91HZ-R
Governor: None
Muffer: None
Receiver: AR7100R
Cyclic Servos: 3 of DS610
Tail Servo: DS650
Throttle Servo: Align DS620
Main Blade: Align 690D
BEC: None

Ok, so in addition to this I'd like to get some feedback on the following items:

Pipe: I'm thinking of the CYE MP6-90 or one of the Hatoris. The Hatori pipes (SB-19 or SB-20) are much more expensive, but if I buy one in the above combo, I think I can get it at the same price as buying the MP6-90 separately (~$115-120).

Receiver: I'd like to give the AR7100R a try, but I'd like to make use of an Align gov sensor and the stock clutch bell magnet setup for a cleaner install. I've read that this is possible with a quick switch-around of the wiring. Am I getting myself into any issues here?

Electrical: Do I want to run the DS610's unregulated on 2S lipo or use a regulator or other battery type to get the voltage down to 6V? I know that most people say the Align servos are fine at 8V, but wouldn't you still have to deal with a reduction in response time as the battery voltage goes from 8.4V to 7.6V over the course of a few flights?

Upgrades: Right out of the box, I'm thinking the Align metal clutch bearing block and QUK canopy mounts for sure, but what about an aftermarket clutch and fan? Any suggestions?

Ignition: I've been spoiled with the Align 2-in-1, so the SwitchGlo pro seems to be the ticket here. That having been said, I'm using a DX7 and want to preserve the Finless Throttle Cut feature on the Gear switch. Would I have to make use of the remote button add-on if I didn't want to run it from the radio?

I know that there are a lot of questions here, but I'd appreciate any feedback you'd be willing to provide. Thanks a bunch! :noteworthy

Cheers,
-->Justin

[DWood]

how much is this costing total?

[chuckk]

Looks like you've got a good set of gear to get started with.

Pipe - look at and consider the Hatori SB-20 FH v2 pipe. it's supposedly tuned for the HZ-R. i've got that combo on the way from espirit so i can't comment at the moment on how well they work.

Receiver - looks like you can remove the align plug and connect your own JR plug. just swapping the red and black wires to get it functional. i'd keep the backplate sensor just because it works so well and you don't have to fool with epoxying magnets. if you do tackle the wire swap you'll need crimp pins, solder, a crimper and plugs. check hansenhobbies (i think) for the supplies required.

Electrical - If you dont plan on running the 610's on 8v why use the AR7100R receiver? Everyone will tell you that they'll run fine. If you want to run them on 6v or less look at an AR7000 and a better gov.

Upgrades - Align metal clutch block is a good choice. So is the G-Force fan. Lynx frame screw set is good even though some of the screws will be unusable. RCBooya canopy mount is the nicest ease of use upgrade.

Ignition - Switchglo pro for sure. If you're on a DX7 you'll lose Throttle Cut functionality because all three available mixes will be taken for 3 headspeeds in tandem with Switchglo operation. Even with the pushbutton you still won't have Throttle Cut capability because all three of your mixes will still be taken for 3 headspeeds.

[Heli Davey]

I would get the rcbooya quick realese conopy mounts!!!:noteworthy

[ualdrivr]

Hey all,

So, I'm finally taking the plunge into a 700N after doing quite a bit of research on what to expect. :YeaBaby: Some of you may have seen my other thread asking about buying local or online...it's a done deal. I'll be buying online and saving over $400! :shock: Let's get right to it then...

Here's the familiar GrandRC custom combo setup that I've chosen with a few other details:

Ultimate 700N Flybarless Combo (Free US Shipping)
Flybarless Gyro: Align 3G
Engine: OS 91HZ-R
Governor: None
Muffer: None
Receiver: AR7100R
Cyclic Servos: 3 of DS610
Tail Servo: DS650
Throttle Servo: Align DS620
Main Blade: Align 690D
BEC: None

Ok, so in addition to this I'd like to get some feedback on the following items:

Pipe: I'm thinking of the CYE MP6-90 or one of the Hatoris. The Hatori pipes (SB-19 or SB-20) are much more expensive, but if I buy one in the above combo, I think I can get it at the same price as buying the MP6-90 separately (~$115-120).

Receiver: I'd like to give the AR7100R a try, but I'd like to make use of an Align gov sensor and the stock clutch bell magnet setup for a cleaner install. I've read that this is possible with a quick switch-around of the wiring. Am I getting myself into any issues here?

Electrical: Do I want to run the DS610's unregulated on 2S lipo or use a regulator or other battery type to get the voltage down to 6V? I know that most people say the Align servos are fine at 8V, but wouldn't you still have to deal with a reduction in response time as the battery voltage goes from 8.4V to 7.6V over the course of a few flights?

Upgrades: Right out of the box, I'm thinking the Align metal clutch bearing block and QUK canopy mounts for sure, but what about an aftermarket clutch and fan? Any suggestions?

Ignition: I've been spoiled with the Align 2-in-1, so the SwitchGlo pro seems to be the ticket here. That having been said, I'm using a DX7 and want to preserve the Finless Throttle Cut feature on the Gear switch. Would I have to make use of the remote button add-on if I didn't want to run it from the radio?

I know that there are a lot of questions here, but I'd appreciate any feedback you'd be willing to provide. Thanks a bunch! :noteworthy

Cheers,
-->Justin

Justin,

Congrats. Looks like a nice combo.

1. For pipe, go with the Hatori SB20 that is tuned for your motor, you pay a bit more but the pipe is made for max power output.

2. I run the AR 7100/R receiver and I use the Rev Limiter that comes with it. It works great and it's mounted with the KDE mounting plate. http://www.kdedirect.com/SRGSBU.html . :thumbup: Some guys use the Align Gov. magnets but you have to deal with epoxy and they can come loose if you don't epoxy them right.

With the DX7 you are going to have to use mixes for that setup and Danal Estes has done the work for you. He has a thread on DX7-AR7100/R-SwitchGlo setup and I posted there a lot when I was setting up my radio.
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=94078 When you do his setup, do not reverse the Gear Channel on your radio, instead flip the SIP switch for the channel on the SwitchGlo itself. Danal had an older version of SG when he wrote the thread and that model had no SIP switches on it, everything else works exactly the same.;) With the DX7 you will not have a kill switch, due to the limited amount of Mixes that the DX7 has, your only option is the Digital Throttle trim, so throttle setup is critical.

3. The Align Main bearing block is a must IMO. Get the RCBooya mounts, they are awesome http://www.rcbooya.com/700-series.html and for clutch, go with QuickUK , I love mine.http://www.readyheli.com/TX7D11-Quick-UK-TREX-700-Heavy-Duty-Clutch_p_36394.html
For fan, I used the stock Align and I have no cooling issues. It works good with a tuned motor. Lynx came up with a metal one but have not heard anything about it yet, I think it should be with dealers as we speak. http://lynxheli.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=33&Itemid=13

4. As far as running the Align servos on strait 8.4 Volts, I don't know.:thinking It's a crap shoot. I have the JR 8717s unregulated on my heli and so far have no problems with them. They run great. If I were you, I would run Align electronics regulated, just to be on the safe side.;) Now, that said, lots of guys run the Align servos unregulated. It's up to you. On your question about, diminishing performance on the servos when the Battery voltage goes down, I don't think that is an issue.
If you are looking for RX batteries then I would go with the Outrage NRG batteries from HeliDirect, great price and the 2S 3600mAh, lasts for ever, your whole day of flying in one charge, some guys use the 5000mAh battery with great success.
http://www.helidirect.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=NRGRX&categories_id=962&inc_subcat=1 :smokin:

I would recommend watching the Finless build videos. Here is a thread I created when I was building my LE last winter, lots of info in there from the great guys in this forum.:noteworthy
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=181234

Hope all of the above helps in your decision making, let us know how it's coming along.

:cheers Panos

[Justin Pucci]

Wow! Lot's great info, guys! Thanks a ton! :noteworthy

Everyone seems to love those RCBooya mounts, huh? I have the QUK thumbscrew mounts on my 600N and really love them, but I've never seen the quick release type. Now all I've got to do is find a store with them in stock! :shock: They're THAT popular...

I'll look into the pipe too...maybe I won't buy the combo with a pipe yet so I can think things through. The Hatori sounds like its the best one available for this engine, but man is it pricey! :P It also doesn't have a 50% crash replacement guarantee like the CYE stuff does.

On the SwitchGlo topic, I found this thread (http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=152996) that discusses how one can make use of the mixes to get the Finless Throttle Cut along side the RevLimiter feature for the AR7100R. On my 600N, I run the Align gov and use Aux2 combined with Pmix 1 and 3 for NORM and ST1/ST2 headspeeds and then Pmix2 is available for throttle cut in much the same way as is described in that link. I don't care too much about the ability to start the engine on the radio to be honest, so the remote button should help me in that regard.

On the servo voltage, I wonder if the extra power demand on the servos due to being FBL combined with the higher voltage could cause an issue...? :confused:

On the fan, I need to look harder to find a dealer that actually carries the G-Force or Lynx fans...so far, I've not had any luck. I saw the links to all the dealers on the Lynx page, but I didn't find the fan at any of them. :(

Thank you for all the advice and links, guys! :thumbup: I'll keep you posted on what the final setup ends up being, but first I've got to go back and add in all the suggestions you guys made! :YeaBaby:

[ualdrivr]

If he has them in stock, you can order the Booya canopy mounts directly from him. :YeaBaby:

The QuickUK mounts are nice, I had them on my Heli as well, but when I tried the RC Booya ones, I never looked back, they are that good ;).

[chuckk]

GrandRC has the G-Force fan. If that's where you're getting the kit from. That's where I got both of mine.

[Justin Pucci]

Alright, guys...I did it! :YeaBaby: Here's what's on it's way north from GrandRC. I talked to one of the guys on the phone today (didn't get his name) and he said it should be here in 2 - 3 days and that's with free shipping! :shock:

T-Rex 700N 3G
OS 91 HZ-R
AR7100R
3x DS610 cyclic
DS620 throttle
DS650 tail
Align 690D FBL
QUK Silver Fuel Tank Cap (I have one on my 600N and love it!)
QUK Silver Canopy Mounts
G-Force Clutch Block/Engine Mount Kit
Lynx HD Clutch
Align Gov Sensor (just incase I don't want to use the Spektrum one)

I know, I know...I appreciated, but respectfully went against your advice for the RC Booya mounts. At four times the price of the QUK ones, I wasn't convinced that they were that much better...sorry guys. :roll:

To-Get List:
SwitchGlo
Pipe (Hatori SB-20FH-V2 or MP6-90)
Fan (stock, G-Force, or Lynx?)
Screw set
Miscellaneous bits and pieces like wire braiding, etc.

I do have a few other questions, of course...

On the screws, is it best to go with the Lynx set and just use the rubber mallet to get the tools to go in or are there other equal-quality screw sets?

How many and what kits are required to get the full complement of fasteners on this bird?

On the tail, is the KDE tail upgrade of value or should I just stick with the stock?

Thanks again for all the help, guys! I'm looking forward to becoming a member of the 700 Club! :YeaBaby: :hug:

[chuckk]

on the tail...

the kde v2 upgrade is really nice if you have the align metal tail grips. the plastic grips work fine as is.

the align metal pitch lever is also nice. you can tighten the screw all the way past snug and the pitch lever moves nice and free with no binding.

[ualdrivr]

For the screw set you are talking about I used this set:
http://www.helidirect.com/metal-washers-and-screws-10pcs-silver-trex700-p-11356.hdx

You are going to need at least 4 bags of 10 screws. They work great and they have different color washers besides silver.

The stock metal Align tail grips are great, but make sure you take them apart and grease the thrust bearings and LockTite them, because mine had no grease or LockTite on them;).

Congrats on your purchase, you are going to have a lot of fun building it.:YeaBaby:

[W.W. Corrigan]

Justin,

I have and really like the Lynx screws. Honestly most of them work without being too tight but I have been able to use all of them with the little mallet trick. Here's a thread where some of us are beginning to experiment with these screws run sans threadlock. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=210980

I have been very happy with the Align fan. I think they spent quite a bit of time getting air flow to your head with the design and interface of the fan and shroud.

I set up my switch glo with the stock align sensor location and clutch magnets. I like it because it reduces wiring hanging out with the back plate sensor.

I've been running my stock servos off this battery http://content.aircraftjapan.com/prod/HP-FG320-3800-2S-L.jpg unregulated with good results. I am still using the AR7100r's regulator for the tail, 650 servo and 780 gyro. I think you could probably get over 10 flights on this battery with no problems.

After having undiagnosed running problems with the pumped OS 91 I replaced the carb with the R and with only about 6 flights so far no problems whatsoever.

I also have the Align metal clutch block and KDE thrusted main blocks with no issues. One of the local "experts" said there is no need for a thrusted main setup. I'm not in a position to argue or defend my decision with my limited experience.

Good luck, Steve :cheers

[ualdrivr]

After having undiagnosed running problems with the pumped OS 91 I replaced the carb with the R and with only about 6 flights so far no problems whatsoever.
Good luck, Steve :cheers

Steve,

Nice to hear you got your motor running.... Wait a minute, that sounds like Stepenwolfe :lol:.

I am glad that you got the heli up and flying, it's a great machine isn't it?

:cheers Panos

[Justin Pucci]

Justin,

I have and really like the Lynx screws. Honestly most of them work without being too tight but I have been able to use all of them with the little mallet trick. Here's a thread where some of us are beginning to experiment with these screws run sans threadlock. http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=210980

I have been very happy with the Align fan. I think they spent quite a bit of time getting air flow to your head with the design and interface of the fan and shroud.

I set up my switch glo with the stock align sensor location and clutch magnets. I like it because it reduces wiring hanging out with the back plate sensor.

I've been running my stock servos off this battery http://content.aircraftjapan.com/prod/HP-FG320-3800-2S-L.jpg unregulated with good results. I am still using the AR7100r's regulator for the tail, 650 servo and 780 gyro. I think you could probably get over 10 flights on this battery with no problems.

After having undiagnosed running problems with the pumped OS 91 I replaced the carb with the R and with only about 6 flights so far no problems whatsoever.

I also have the Align metal clutch block and KDE thrusted main blocks with no issues. One of the local "experts" said there is no need for a thrusted main setup. I'm not in a position to argue or defend my decision with my limited experience.

Good luck, Steve :cheers

Steve,

Awesome information...thanks a ton! :)

What exactly do you mean with regard to the SwitchGlo comment made above? Did you mean to say the AR7100R revlimiter sensor? If you do mean the ignition system, can you post a pic?

I'm glad to hear that you fixed your engine issues...especially that the fixed involved upgrading your engine to the R version! ;)

So, on the topic of the clutch bearing block, I realized after the fact that it may not have been the best idea to get the G-Force adjustable clutch block/engine block kit over the fixed-position Align metal block. I use the Align metal block on my 600N with great success, but having read so much about the gear stripping issues, I figured it was good insurance to get the adjustable system...

The best case puts me in a situation where I have a properly-meshed powertrain and I don't suffer any stripping issues...

The worst case puts me in a situation where I'm constantly fiddling with the adjustment only to realize that it doesn't help with stripping or that I have to continually monitor the block position from flight to flight to ensure that vibrations, etc aren't changing anything... :(

I reserve the right to put the G-Force kit to the side and just use the Align metal block, but then again I've not seen much user feedback on the kit, so it could be an opportunity to provide a review to the fellow freaks out there who are interested. :)

Just so that I'm clear, do the new 700LE kits ship with mod1 gears? Either way, does the 700N still suffer from gear stripping problems today? :confused:

For the screw set you are talking about I used this set:
http://www.helidirect.com/metal-wash...00-p-11356.hdx

You are going to need at least 4 bags of 10 screws. They work great and they have different color washers besides silver.

The stock metal Align tail grips are great, but make sure you take them apart and grease the thrust bearings and LockTite them, because mine had no grease or LockTite on them.

Congrats on your purchase, you are going to have a lot of fun building it.

Panos,

Those are much cheaper than the Lynx screws! Thanks for the link... :)

If I do go with the Lynx set, do I only need to buy one set of 45 screws?

Is it only the M3 frame screws that typically have issues or do I need to replace EVERY fastener on the bird?

[chuckk]

the frame screws are the only one's you'll run into problems with as long as you don't gorilla torque any others.


:fly

[ualdrivr]

Just so that I'm clear, do the new 700LE kits ship with mod1 gears? Either way, does the 700N still suffer from gear stripping problems today? :confused:


No Justin, the LE has the upgraded main gear which is the HN-7019-1
http://www.grandrc.com/inc/sdetail/176824 it is still a 164T main gear but stronger than the original. The M1 gear is the 115Tgear and it comes with 14T pinion. The LE has the original 20T pinion. The ratio with both combinations is the same, 8.2 :1.

You'll have no problems with the upgraded -1 164T main gear. You'll have to adjust the meshing with your G-Force Main bearing block. I have the Align Metal Bearing Block on my LE and the backlash is perfect between the Main Gear and the pinion.;) I usually slip a thin plastic strip between the gear and the pinion when I adjust the backlash on my electric Heli. You can use a strip from the plastic bags that the parts come in, that is about 1mm thick. I put it between the gears and adjust the pinion so it just squeezes the the plastic strip into the main gear. At that point tighten the screws and pull the strip through, you should see a nice pattern on the strip from the teeth of the gears.

Move the main gear back and forth and you should hear a slight ticking sound when the teeth engage, that is proper meshing.:YeaBaby: Finless did that on his 500 build videos and it works every time. I think is the motor installation video.
http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=finless/trex500&filename=step16.wmv

As far as the frame screws go, the Lynx set of 45 should be more than enough. The other ones I linked to you cannot be used on the aft main shaft bearing block mounts because they interfere with the balls on the bell cranks. On those locations I used the stock Align screws.

A guy on another forum, ground down the aluminum washer and used a flat head hex screw. I tried it and it was a pain in the you know what:roll: so I went with the stock Align button head screws on those four locations.

Here are a couple of pictures of what he did.

160620

160621

With the Lynx set I don't know if you have enough clearance.

Hope this helps

:cheers Panos

[Justin Pucci]

No Justin, the LE has the upgraded main gear which is the HN-7019-1
http://www.grandrc.com/inc/sdetail/176824 it is still a 164T main gear but stronger than the original. The M1 gear is the 115Tgear and it comes with 14T pinion. The LE has the original 20T pinion. The ratio with both combinations is the same, 8.2 :1.

You'll have no problems with the upgraded -1 164T main gear. You'll have to adjust the meshing with your G-Force Main bearing block. I have the Align Metal Bearing Block on my LE and the backlash is perfect between the Main Gear and the pinion.;) I usually slip a thin plastic strip between the gear and the pinion when I adjust the backlash on my electric Heli. You can use a strip from the plastic bags that the parts come in, that is about 1mm thick. I put it between the gears and adjust the pinion so it just squeezes the the plastic strip into the main gear. At that point tighten the screws and pull the strip through, you should see a nice pattern on the strip from the teeth of the gears.

Move the main gear back and forth and you should hear a slight ticking sound when the teeth engage, that is proper meshing.:YeaBaby: Finless did that on his 500 build videos and it works every time. I think is the motor installation video.
http://video.helifreak.com/?subpath=finless/trex500&filename=step16.wmv

As far as the frame screws go, the Lynx set of 45 should be more than enough. The other ones I linked to you cannot be used on the aft main shaft bearing block mounts because they interfere with the balls on the bell cranks. On those locations I used the stock Align screws.

A guy on another forum, ground down the aluminum washer and used a flat head hex screw. I tried it and it was a pain in the you know what:roll: so I went with the stock Align button head screws on those four locations.

Here are a couple of pictures of what he did.

160620

160621

With the Lynx set I don't know if you have enough clearance.

Hope this helps

:cheers Panos

Again, awesome info, Panos!

Your summary of the gear situation makes things much clearer to me now. The LE's should have the upgraded -1 gears, which have been proven to be OK, but you can also get Mod1 gears if you'd like and still maintain the same 8.2:1 gear ratio. Great! :thumbup:

Bob's 500 vid was where I learned how to set gear mesh on my electric helis...I remember the video and procedure fondly. ;)

On the screws topic, I went ahead and purchased the pack of 45 Lynx screws. I've read that they are the EXACT same design as the stock ones, so there shouldn't be any fitment issues in the vicinity of the bearing block. I've also been reading up on another thread where a few HeliFreaks have been testing on their rigs with Lynx frame screws that have not been locktited...so far, the results seem promising.

I'm starting to get really excited here, as I expect all of the goodies to arrive in the mail starting tomorrow or Saturday! :YeaBaby: It would be nice to start working on it this weekend, but I won't hold my breath yet...everytime I do, my heli orders don't get here until the following Monday or Tuesday. :thumbdown:

I still have to make a few more purchase decisions...

1. Pipe - Hatori SB-20FH-V2, CYE MP6-90, FunTech 90 Type X 3D
2. Batteries - Haven't really put much thought into this one yet...
3. Wire sleeving and fuel tubing color :D
4. Blades - It comes with 690D FBLs, but I've been hearing some good stuff about the Edge FBL and new CYE FBL too.

Thanks again for the help! You guys are awesome! :hug:

[Justin Pucci]

I'm starting to get really excited here, as I expect all of the goodies to arrive in the mail starting tomorrow or Saturday! :YeaBaby: It would be nice to start working on it this weekend, but I won't hold my breath yet...everytime I do, my heli orders don't get here until the following Monday or Tuesday. :thumbdown:

I still have to make a few more purchase decisions...

1. Pipe - Hatori SB-20FH-V2, CYE MP6-90, FunTech 90 Type X 3D
2. Batteries - Haven't really put much thought into this one yet...
3. Wire sleeving and fuel tubing color :D
4. Blades - It comes with 690D FBLs, but I've been hearing some good stuff about the Edge FBL and new CYE FBL too.

Thanks again for the help! You guys are awesome! :hug:

I figured I'd give an update since I personally found it to be funny given my above post...

My 700 package was originally scheduled to arrive on Friday like I said above...Friday afternoon comes and the UPS tracking info changes to "shipment rescheduled." So now it won't be here until Monday or Tuesday. ROFL :rolling Priceless...

Incidentally, I got my package of Lynx screws and the G-Force SHO fan in the mail yesterday. :arggg: :P For what it's worth, both are pretty bits of hardware even though I don't have the heli to use them on yet...

On the above list, I've decided on #1. I'll be getting the CYE MP6-90 to see how it does. I've always liked the look of the muscle pipes and Curtis offers a 50% crash replacement deal on a new pipe as an added bonus. :)

[ualdrivr]

Justin,

Sorry to head about the UPS screw-up, it happens some times, most of the time is weather related delays. There has been a lot of nasty weather in the Midwest and South. I know I've been flying through it for the past three days. Don't forget UPS's sorting facility is in Louisville KY and they did have tornado warnings there this weekend :(.

You were talking about RX batteries earlier, my recommendation would be the Outrage NRG RX baterries from HeliDirect. The 2S 3600mAh battery is great in size and price, some guys even use the 5000mAh battery. You can fly all day with one charge. ;).
http://www.helidirect.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=NRGRX&categories_id=962&inc_subcat=1

Enjoy.

[Justin Pucci]

Panos,

Yeah, the weather has been rough up here in Seattle, too... :(

Those packs you suggested are really reasonably priced! When you say you can fly all day on the 5000mAh packs, how many flights do you mean, exactly? ;)

[burton8012]

those quick release canopy mounts says they only for the 700n v1 canopy will they work on fusuno canopys with the new shape?

[Justin Pucci]

those quick release canopy mounts says they only for the 700n v1 canopy will they work on fusuno canopys with the new shape?

I've heard that they don't, that's why I decided to go with the tried and true QUK mounts. I can always upgrade later on... ;)

[ualdrivr]

Justin,

With the 5000mAh battery, I would estimate at least 7 to 10 flights. I've flown 6 flights on the 3600mAh battery and it was down to about 30% remaining :D.

The RC Booya mounts do not work with V2 canopies. ;).

[Justin Pucci]

Panos,

That's definitely a day of flying for me...awesome! :YeaBaby: So, how many fewer flights would I expect to get out of the same pack if I'm FBL? I hear that the servos work much harder on a FBL bird than on one with a flybar. Maybe with that taken into account, the 5000 only gives about 5 or 6 flights? :confused: Thanks for the info! :)

[ZzEther]

Congrats Justin on the new bird! Fwiw, I went from the Align 1900 battery to the 2500 ma NRG and my CG was forward, had to put a tail boom brace on to even it out. You'll want your CG dead on especially with FBL.

I don't know how ualdrivr is getting only 6 flights out of the 3600ma, he must beat the crap out of that thing! :thumbup: I personally am running FBL on 610s and I get 5 or 6 flights on the 2500ma battery and only put back 1100-1250 ma.

Anyway, just want to get you thinking about your CG, you might be better served buying two smaller batteries rather than the 5000ma, you kinda need to know where your CG is first to help with the decision.

I personally only have one each for my 600 and 700 and I just fly the other bird while one is charging on my vehicle. Plus I have like five Align 1900 packs I've collected somehow if I really need to...