Newbie with Raptor 30 v2

[Pepmo]

I just got a new Raptor 30v2 ARF with a JR XP6102 radio and GY401 Futaba Gyro. I have a couple of questions?

I have the radio equipment installed...My pitch doesn't move. (the servo works...tested it) Everything else works fine. I don't know if I have to set this up in the radio or not or something else is wrong?

The heli came with tt39 engine..I have a jug of Cool Power 15%...is this a good break in fuel or should I use another percentage?

I have the FMS simulator is this one good enough to learn on?

I just read that you are not suppose to take the wrap off the blades?
If you are not suppose to ......too late


Thanks

[Gscott]

What channel is the pitch servo plugged in to on the receiver? For JR it should be plugged into Aux 1.

[Pepmo]

I have it plugged into the Aux/pitch.

Is there settings on the radio that have to be changed?

[Pepmo]

Got it fixed....had a bad receiver.

[Dan MacKay]

The blades are wrapped to protect them from contaminants primarily fuel. The woodies are not recommnended as they have been known to fly apart. I would immediately order myself a set of 550mm Carbons and a crash kit (Heliproz sells a kick butt crash kit with boom, boom supports, some head parts and a set of
CF blades for $79.00).

FMS is good enough to learn on but in reality I think you will find that for basic hovering (tail in) it is likely easier to do with the real thing. Make sure you have a set of training gear (a couple of wooden dowels and a hoola hoop) take your time and have at it. You have to run five or six tanks of fuel through your heli anyway to break it in, you might as well do it practicing. It really helps if you have someone in your area to give you a hand the first couple of flights just to make sure that you have the heli set up right and is airworthy.

Have fun.

Dan

[bgjames111]

DON'T fly the blades without the covering. The covering actually strengthens the blades as well as protects them from fuel residue. As far as the engine, it'll run fine on 15%, but please do some searching for correct needle settings. The TT carb likes the low end needle turned out quite a bit If i recall correctly.

[cliffp73]

A question about the covering. I am to very new at this so please bare with me. You cut just the area where the plastic pices go on the top and bottom on the blade so you can glue them to the wood? Is that correct? Now if I go with CF or glass blades do I need these plastic pices or do I rip them off the woodies and us them on other blades? So may I ask also ask what are some very cheap blades CF or glass for the raptor 50? and what size should I go with?

[RSL_Mongoose]

No you won't need the plastic pieces on CF blades. You will need 600mm blades with a 12mm root and 4mm bolt, the cheapest that still fly decent are the Mavericks. Some will tell you that a helicopter won't fly with anything less than a set of V Blades, just because thats what the big dogs are using.
I agree that V Blades are probably the best but you don't need them, Your 50 will fly just fine with a set of Mavericks.

[cliffp73]

thank you very much. I really do appreciate all of the great information.

[ferincr]

The woodies are not recommnended as they have been known to fly apart.
I have a R60 with an OS70 and fly woodies no problems (so far).
You should do a good job gluing those plastic pieces though.
Some will tell you that a helicopter won't fly with anything less than a set of V Blades
That's why I'm flying the woodies It doesn't hurt as much when your landing is not on your skids.
But, don't use them if you ripped off the covering.

[HelicopterJohn]

Hi Guys,

Just some of my thoughts on blades.

I have flown both the Raptor 30 and Raptor 50 extensively. I started out with the Raptor 30 V1 and flew the heck out of the machine with the stock 550 wood blades. When I started fast forward flight and starting looping and rolling I began to have issues with the blades staying in track so I changed to the TT 550 carbon blades. I have also used the SAB carbon blades with great success on the Raptor 50. The wood blades (in my opinion) are fine for hovering and learning to do basic flight (which can save you a bunch of money) depending on how easily you learn to fly. Switch to the Carbons when you get into forward flight and your flying skills have improved.

A word of Caution on the wood blades. They say to glue the blade grips and I highly recommend it. I don't know why the factory doesn't do it for you. It has been a while since I flew the wood blades but if I remember correctly this is how I glued the blade holders.

I get a ball point pen and trace around the blade holder on both the top and bottom of the blade. I then remove the plastic blade holder and trim the covering back about 1/8 inch from that line so that when the plastic blade holders are re-installed that no bare wood will be exposed. I then lightly coat the top and bottom exposed wood surfaces with thin CA. I stay away from the actual bolt holes as the plastic blade holders will have to re-installed through them. This soaks into the wood and makes it much harder which is supposed to keep the blades from separating. I then put a few more drops of CA on the blade grips themselves and (quickly) press them into the blade before the CA starts to activate. I then re-install the associated screws into the blade holders.

Another issue with the wood blades is that the covering can become loose and possibly cause tracking issues with the blades.

The covering can be shrunk if you use a heat gun. You have to be very careful as if you get the gun too close to the blade and leave it in one spot too long it will actually burn a hole in the covering. Then the blade(s) are toast and need to be disposed of.

The method I would use is to point the blade us toward a light source (fluorescent lamp) on an angle so you can watch the covering shrink. Then start at the blade holder and move the heat gun back and forth up and down the blade moving gradually toward the tip. I would start with the gun about 12" away from the blade and move closer depending on the speed of your movement back and forth and the power of your heat gun. If you hold it at the right angle you will see the covering shrinking as you move toward the end of the blade. The trick is to keep the gun at the proper distance to actually shrink the covering while not getting it too hot and burning a hole in the covering. (If you have an Ole crashed blade they are good for practicing on.) You do this process on both sides of the blade.

It sounds involved but is really pretty easy once you do it a couple of times. The may be something you do on occasion especially where you get great temperature variations.

The TT Carbons are nice blades and are recommended if funding is not an issue. Remember the wood blades have been known to separate at the blade holder (although this never happened to me) and it should be your personal choice on which blades to use knowing the associated risk and cost factors.

Just some tips on what I did that (may) be of help to the newbies here.

:)

[cliffp73]

I would like to thank you very much for your post. It really does help us newbies out a great deal.

BTW as for the word Newbie, I dont mind calling my self a newbie because I want people to know that I am new to this and call me if I say something wrong if you know what I mean. I dont mind Kob or most anything else, so if you have anything else that you wish to share with a novist please feel free to share with me I will at least read as much as I can. I want to thank finless for his videos, I feel that his videos helped me Build my Titan 50 in 6 hours and I had a pro look at it and he said that it was really good and I was not off but two twist on one linkage. I was on cloud nine when a pro told me that. Props are given to Finless and HeliFreak for all of the help and support.

[omerojs]

well I just got a new Raptor 30v2 ARF with a JR X2610 that is the same as the XP6102 radio and GY401 Futaba Gyro. is this a good configuration? i have not seen many ppl with this config, actually i havent been able to find how to set up the JR TX with the Gyro and in general the curves and all that stuff ( i am new at this so i dont remember the names of all configs), could someone post how to set up each of the config screens on the controller for that config... and any tips for that set up... can it do 3D?

[RevGQ]

Don't trash your woodies. Grab Bulls Eye wood sealer at local hardware. Apply first coat, let dry and sand down to wood. Apply a second coat and sand again, but this time check to make sure blades balance. Finally, apply the third and final coat, and sand lightly making sure the blades balance. Fuels and bugs wipe right off.