View Full Version : Receiver not pairing anymore + metal tail boom question

06-25-2010, 03:04 PM
Hey guys, I sort of crashed my CB100 a bit hard and now it seems like the receiver won't pair with the transmitter anymore. Has to happened to anyone on here? Quick solution would be to just order a new receiver but I'm wondering if there's something I might have missed.

I turn on the TX, plug in the battery in the CB100 before the 10sec elapse and the RX just keeps on blinking. I tried that same process multiple times and no luck.

Also, are there metal tail booms that exist? I busted that as well and am looking for a more permanent solution considering I will have to solder wires and I really suck at it.

Thanks in advance for your time and help, I truly appreciate it :)

06-26-2010, 05:56 PM
The only thing I can suggest as far as the receiver goes would be double check all of the connections to the esc and receiver. I have had some pretty nasty crashes with this heli and have no problem with the receiver afterwords except that after a while the plastic did break, I have removed it now and heatshrinked it.

I also have replaced my boom with a solid carbon fiber rod, you will just have to re-route the tail motor wires externally. I have not broken the tail boom yet, but have broken the frame instead . But it is a much more solid unit, the factory boom is pretty weak in my opinion.

Check this thread

Hope that helps...

06-27-2010, 09:42 AM
In addition to what Rockers said, check this on your receiver. It can get damaged, usually the legs in a bad crash. It's a crystal resonator.

Usually, a re-flow of solder and flux will solve the problem. If the legs break on the can itself, it's incredibly difficult to repair due to its size. Finding a replacement part is also next to impossible as you need the exact same part to make it work. I have previously tried similar spec resonators from electronics hobby stores but didn't work. The exact same unit can only be purchase wholesale and from China.


06-27-2010, 03:07 PM
I took a look at the whole receiver and everything seems intact including the crystal. It's weird that it just won't pair at all anymore. Only solution I see is buy another receiver.

As for the tail boom; where do you buy solid CF rods??

06-27-2010, 05:30 PM
As for the tail boom; where do you buy solid CF rods??

The CF Rod is available at most good hobby shops, I used the 4mm rod and machined the ends down to fit, while there i made 3 more, but they are still in my "Spares" pile. I hove not broken the boom yet and don't expect to, but I'm sure i will replace another frame someday ;)

PS, while you wait, you can also use a bamboo skewer. See this thread


06-29-2010, 09:27 PM
A buddy of mine told me that maybe the receiver is not able to complete its preflight check thus never pairing with the TX. Is that possible?

06-30-2010, 06:45 AM
A buddy of mine told me that maybe the receiver is not able to complete its preflight check thus never pairing with the TX. Is that possible?

Use a magnifying glass to inspect the resonator I showed earlier. It's the RX's Achilles Heel in a crash.

Also check the solders that connects the two boards together. It won't hurt if you simply touch those solder points with a hot tip soldering iron to re-melt the solder including the resonator legs. I'm pretty sure at point when you crashed it, you broke a connection somewhere. In the worst case scenario, you broke a component of the Rx.

07-06-2010, 02:29 AM
You can order the following tube for your tail boom. Stainless steel, 12 in long. You should be able to cut 3 booms. It is the same diameter as the factory booms.

07-07-2010, 10:33 PM
Actually I cut a bicycle wheel spoke to the right length and used that as a tail boom. Cheap and effective way...

Only I checked very upclose for the crystal and everything seems to be in position and well soldered.: I'll just resolve to buying a new receiver and we'll see where that goes from there.

07-31-2010, 11:57 AM
RE: the crystal can - I had the same problem and visually everything loked fine until I applied very light pressure to it - then a crack in the solder was visible. Took about 5 minutes to fix.