V-Stabi/V-Bar installation.

[Lorents]

It rolls like a 3D foamie on high rates!

LOL - thats a fantastic description :lol:

Thanks for the info on the Dubro arms! I dont think hitting the servo case is a problem in the air so I guess I will just stay with them :)

[MrMel]

I switched to QuickUK alu arms today, will see how that affects the flying.
However, Ulrich stated that we might hit "max" what the 9650 can handle, hope not that is the case.

[RB-heli]

Hi all V-bar pilots

I use the full aileron and elevator rate for my LOGO 10. To make use of it effectively, I set 30% Expo. The same situation for the tail, maximum rate and 30% Expo.


Ralf

[misskimo]

I switched to QuickUK alu arms today, will see how that affects the flying.
However, Ulrich stated that we might hit "max" what the 9650 can handle, hope not that is the case.

hey , well that was the reason why I use the full default setting on my atv and use shorter servo lenths , like on my Ion , which used the futaba big wheels , I ended up useing the small wheels to get full servo movement and also the torque went up on the servos for the pitch I needed, with the big wheels the servo rating is around 90 oz . with the smaller wheels , It should almost be twice that ,
useing full lenth servo horns and knocking down the ATVs just causes your servo to easly stall out

[Lorents]

I use the full aileron and elevator rate for my LOGO 10


Thanks for sharing Ralf! Is this with the ATV maxed out - about 140ish - or the default of 100?

I am debating with myself if I should keep the ball on the aileron servo arms on the inside or if I should move the ball on the outside of the servo arm. When it is on the inside the angle of the link from the servo to the swash is only slightly angeled but the link is in danger of hitting the servo casing in extreeme collective/cyclic positions. Moving the ball and link to the outside of the arm would make it go clear of the servo but the angle would be more offset.

[misskimo]

hey , sure took me a long time , but I think I fully understand how Ulrich designed his VStabi , now if I can write it into perspective. like paddle weight , roll rate, the hardest part was the prograing part that worked with the brain box , but the rest is pretty easy ,

[BobbySmith]

Very good info Ralf!! changing the Arms on Chandlers 14 made the world of differance he was using the small dubro arms iam using the HEAVY DUTY dubro arms in my 10 and 14 and both are flying real solid now i f i could just figure out which one to try the Vbar in :arggg:

Bobby

[loopzilla]

Dank viel Ralf! What a wonderful product!

We have also been seeing tremendous benefits to using the JR S3421 servos, as the torque and metal gears seem to really benefit the new requirements. The installation is also much easier with your precut servo plates for the 3421 servos (as the old 9650 ones do not fit the new tabbed 9650 servos, and cutting the tabs off is not fun).

My only comment would be to reiterate what I think Lorents mentioned already, in that the gyro sensor plug may indeed come out of the controller box during flight.

I'm hoping to drop a A50-14S in mine tonight or tomorrow, and move to so new packs, which should help pep things up quite a bit!

[BobbySmith]

Loopzilla now you knowafter what we seen yesterday wiht that 14s motor in my flybar 14!!! That motor is jsut going to be sick in the flybarless one!!!!!


Bobby

[loopzilla]

Am I making you jealous yet? Matter of fact, I think your V-Bar will be here Friday! I have the head for a 14 on my desk, if you want to pick it up when you come down this week.

Your 10 is flying superbly, so put the V-Bar on your 14...

I'm building a 10 this week, CF or not is the question. I really like being able to get to the servos easily.

[BobbySmith]

Am I making you jealous yet? Matter of fact, I think your V-Bar will be here Friday! I have the head for a 14 on my desk, if you want to pick it up when you come down this week.

Your 10 is flying superbly, so put the V-Bar on your 14...

I'm building a 10 this week, CF or not is the question. I really like being able to get to the servos easily.

HAHAH Jealous NOWAY!!!!! iam thinking Vbar another 10.... Vbar or another 10.......... hmmmmm :dontknow :dontknow

Were is the 6s video? :dontknow

[MrMel]

well that was the reason why I use the full default setting on my atv and use shorter servo lenths


Yeah, but Ive already moved them inwards compared to "with flybar", moving them even further in I can probably get the full collective, but not collective and cyclic.

Will see how it works with the metal arms.

Loopzilla, thanks for the tip about the JR S3421, will try them if I can get the 9650 to improve.

[Lorents]

I'm hoping to drop a A50-14S in mine tonight or tomorrow, and move to so new packs, which should help pep things up quite a bit!

Darn, seems like you guys are having a lot of fun over there :lol:

[BobbySmith]

Mrmel i switched to the 3421's as well they up hold very well ina crash and iam liking them alot

Lorents Yes were are trying alot of new stuff for sure.. The main focus is to keep having alot of fun and we are doing that!!

Loopzilla i will be down in the morning be ready to wrench and go do some flying :smokin:

[MrMel]

The main focus is to keep having alot of fun and we are doing that


I second that :)

Lifted off my AP rig (E620SE) today, while fedex arrived with a E325 kit and a new Jazz controller for my Logo 14 which burnt midair the other day.
This will be a nice christmas :)

[loopzilla]

MrMel, I'm testing the V-BAR on some of my AP rigs in the coming weeks, mainly on the IP3. I want to get some qualitative data on efficiency gains and working with the serial output into other avionics.

What type of AP stuff are you doing? How do you like the e Raptors in that application?

And - you blew up a Jazz!?!?!? Haven't seen that one yet. Anything out of the ordinary?

Lorents, nice video of your L10 BTW, even if there is snow on the ground! Our largest problem is wearing flip-flops to the field and getting beach sand between our toes (or bitten by fire ants). But, we will suffer through it...

[MrMel]

Just AP for fun, a friend is a realestate agent, so I just help out for fun of it.
Raptor is ok, plus you can remove the ap gear and have a fun helicopter as well.
Stable heli for the work, however, I dont have a downlink, just a rig where I can switch between my camera for stills or videocamera for sequences.

I was thinking of trying the VStabi on the raptor at first, but liked it on my L14 :)

I downed the L14 when a cable went loose in the EagleTree, I guess all the sparks, spikes etc that happnend then must have affected the Jazz, so it resetted midflight, smells funny, still working, but I need to repair it...

[Lorents]

Our largest problem is wearing flip-flops to the field and getting beach sand between our toes (or bitten by fire ants). But, we will suffer through it...

Thats it! I am packing my Logos and moving in with you guys :arggg:

Congratulations on the new toys Fredrik! I have a Black Widow downlink here if you want to try it out. Wont work with the DX7 though, but you are probably flying the e-raptor with your 14mz right?

[MrMel]

Im on daycare duty (regular daycare has closed for christmas), so I wont make any flights today, unless my wife gets home before darkness occur.

However, I got some mods done yesterday, I replaced the UBEC with a 6volt Medusa bec (stepdown on tailservo), so that will bring the torque up on the servo's, will see how it flies as soon as I can get out to the field.

[loopzilla]

MrMel, IMHO -

Go up to a Duralite Regulator and stepdown when you get a chance. I normally don't recommend one product over another, but I have lost too many helis to the other BECs...

[MrMel]

Go up to a Duralite Regulator and stepdown when you get a chance


Ive lost two with the duralite regulator..
I take my chances with the bec system for now.

[loopzilla]

Wow, really? How long ago was that? I've had much better success, not measured by loss, but by how much current it can deliver. As my flying skills progress, I am finding where the system needs more power. At 7 amps, the Duralite is the highest rated, and I have stalled a UBEC in the past.

I agree, the Medusa performed really well for me, but freaked out in my Ion where the current requirement was heavier. I had one in my IP3 for a while and it performed well. But, when I started running all the avionics, it had too much ripple for the system.

See, that's why I don't recommend stuff, in some ways you are always incorrect or set in an opinion. I guess we don't really have a agreeable definitive resource for radio power...

[MrMel]

I think I might have phasing issues, the delrin support guide shows sign of wear, so I built a swashplate driver, which will keep the swash aligned at all time.
You can buy them for vario heli's, but I modded some mikado parts for now, should be interesting to see how it flies.

http://www.dacsa.net/heli/swashplatedriver/cimg0929.jpg

http://www.dacsa.net/heli/swashplatedriver/cimg0932.jpg

http://www.dacsa.net/heli/swashplatedriver/cimg0933.jpg

Its basically a cut down mixing arm, washout base (upper and lower part removed) and half of the washout cut in half, so a bolt will let it grip tight on the main shaft.

[loopzilla]

Were you seeing any flight symptoms with the phasing issue? I doubt it could have been enough to really notice in flight, but my compensator driver is doing the same thing, but only wearing in the direction of torque. So, if the phasing is out, it should at least be consistent through a flight (unless it wears that much in a given flight).

Robbe, Century, Graupner, etc all make swashplate drivers, but I'm not sure which ones are 10mm for the 10 and 14 main shafts.

A Robbe Part number is S2802, and Century is CN1108. I'm sure they each make more than one though.

[MrMel]

Was out flying today,

It was a complete success, it flied sooo nice now.

Two mods was done, first I used about 1mm washer on each bladegrip, inside the ball-link (moving the ball-link further out, it was not centered on the head before)
Second was the Swashplate driver.

It flied perfectly!