V-Stabi/V-Bar installation.

[Lorents]

Thats great Fredrik!

Merry christmas :D

[WillJames]

:lolol :lolol :lolol :lolol

Good for you!!

[OICU812]

You would not think there would be any mods for an upgrade as expensive and researched as this one....

[BobbySmith]

Iamsure iam just tired and iam over looking something but i cant get Vstabi program to connect
I found the com port still nothing any help??

[MrMel]

Is the com port cable connected turned correctly into the Vstabi system? The side with one pin should point upwards towards the label of the unit.

Is the sensor cable connected correctly, else the whole system stops (you wont burn it, it just stops responding)

[Lorents]

Hi Bobby,

If you are using the USB adaptor that came with the kit you have to install the drivers for it first. Then you have to find out what # the USB-Com has - on my computer it was Com15. When you know the Com# you will have to go in the Vbar software and either choose the right Com port there from the list or enter the # manually if its not in the list.

As MrMel sais the cable has to be connected with the white dot facing upwards. Its also a good idea to have the gyro sencor connected (make sure its all the way to the left) so that you know exactly what pins the PC cable goes into.

[BobbySmith]

Thanks guys i did everything right except for plug the wire from the Rx to the Vstabi right :arggg: Chandler and me figured it out it is working cant wait to fly it!!!

This is really cool!!!

Bobby

[loopzilla]

Yep, signal wire is down in the controller, unlike most receivers where the signal wire is up. Simple fix!

Can't wait to hear your thoughts Bobby!

[BobbySmith]

It s done test hovered it tongiht in back yard man all i can say so far is :shock: :shock: it feels really Snappy tst flgiht tomorrow then some SMACK DOWN!!!

Also i might add iam not using the air tubes


Bobby

[Lorents]

I have been flying my Vbar Logo 10 with both TP 6S2P 4200 and EVO 6S1P 3700 packs and the Logo got the "death wag" every now and then. Then I suddenly realized why - the EVO pack gives much more head/tail speed so the gain had to be adjusted to this (DOH!). So on saturday I dialled down the gain to match the EVO pack and finally got to fly some hard 3D with it.

The power in the Vbar-L10 with the EVO pack is just AWESOME!!!! This Logo has more power than my Logo 14 on 10S :WOW The speed you can build up in with that streamlined canopy is fantastic! Wish I had some way of measuring the speed without strapping a heavy GPS to it...

Bobby, try diving into a low pass and watch the Logo fly :D

[OICU812]

I still don't understand why this phasing mod needs to be done? I thought this was a straight up install with no mods or tinkering needed? Correct me if I am wrong but the 14 will not fly properly without this mod??? As much as Love to tinker and mess with stuff I am getting tired of modding brand new stuff, lol. I want to bolt it on and fly. :smokin:

Lorents glad you are coming to the Sith side of E Power, muhahhahaha! Anyhow if Mikado releases a driven tail 10 sized heli me thinks I will have to have a L10 ish machine again. I am also hoping for a 90 size to replace my Ion I should not have sold,,, oh the pains..... hehehehe :glasses2:

[MrMel]

I still don't understand why this phasing mod needs to be done? I thought this was a straight up install with no mods or tinkering needed? Correct me if I am wrong but the 14 will not fly properly without this mod??? As much as Love to tinker and mess with stuff I am getting tired of modding brand new stuff, lol. I want to bolt it on and fly.

You can buy this "mod" from any Vario dealer if you want, called Swash plate driver.

It will fly great without but even better with.

[Lorents]

A 90 size would be nice indeed Shawn :D Only thing is that it might need 12S to rock?

I havent tried installing the extra swash driver on my Logo so I dont know if it gets even better to fly with it. So far mine works great without.

[BobbySmith]

Iwas flying a 90 size Ion on 12s @ Ircha last year it was flying really good

I agree 12s is the onyl way i build a 90 again

[loopzilla]

I really haven't seen the need for a swash driver yet. I tried one on the 14, and still got rubbing on the anti-rotation guide. If there is any phasing, I'm certainly not a good enough pilot to tell.

[MrMel]

and still got rubbing on the anti-rotation guide

My Vstabi head needed a shim on the inside of the ball-link on the blade holder (on each side) to make the ball-link dead center of the head, then with the swash plate driver I could get the arms to run perfectly free in the guide.

[BobbySmith]

Lorents

what do you mean diving into a low pass?

Mel does it really help??

[Lorents]

Build up speed in a dive and level it out to do a low fly by - looks cool I think :)

The links in MrMels head was not 100% parallell to the main shaft so he needed extra shims underneath the spacers on the main blade holders to straighten them up. On my Logo 10 they were parallell so I didnt need them.

[BobbySmith]

[quote="Lorents"]Build up speed in a dive and level it out to do a low fly by - looks cool I think :)

O ok yea they are SWEET!! i like doing a flyby back wards inverted as well

Loving the Logos


Bobby

[loopzilla]

Is anyone getting trim 'drift' with their installations? Every time I power up, the sensors put the swash in a different place. And, although it maintains throughout a flight, I keep having to go back and change my trim settings - drastically.

It all started happening just after I had to switch radios. My first DX7 hit the deck and broke a gimbal and LCD screen in a 'Chandler vs heli' bench showdown. So, I broke out another DX7, bound it and the problems started.

Does the V-Bar calibrate to the radio in any fashion during initial setup? If so, then that is the issue.

Any ideas?

[ulrich99]

Hi Loopzilla,

You are completely right, V-Bar learns the centers at powerup. This is needed, because the algorithm dont like offsets at all.

The problem is: the Receiver sends pulses before really recieving something from the transmitter. If the initialization of the V-Bar controller is faster than than the radiolink startup time, a default position is considered as neutral position. VBar counts a number of correct pulses before taking the neutral pulse.

My own tests with a DX7 and an AR7000 Receiver dont show this behavior, but this may differ on various reasons.

Question:
- how long does it take on your setup until the first reaction from transmitter is arriving at RX?

Quick Fix:
Adjust the Centers with the Transmitter trim to the exact values as the default signal:

Switch on reciver only, enter setup goto live panel.
write down the values for RC Input of Aileron, Elevator and Rudder.
Now switch on the Tx and adjust the values with the trim levers to the exact same values.

since trimming shall be done in the setup software, this is no limitation.

so long ... Uli
http://www.vstabi.de

[loopzilla]

Thanks for responding Uli, and I believe you are on the right track.

It has been confusing because I could re-initialize the system and everything would be OK. The DX7 does indeed take longer than most Rx to initialize, maybe some more than others. I can try powering the V-Bar AFTER the Rx is booted, and see if it is more consistent. How can I tell when V-Bar is initialized? An indicator light in the future might be worthwhile.

OK, one other question which might have some bearing; how do the airspeed sensors affect initialization? For example, what happens when I initialize in a headwind?

[ulrich99]

The Problem is, that most other Receivers do not output Pulses, if they have no connection at startup. This makes the difference...

V-Bar does a short pulse on pitch if it has initialized successfully. Normally this takes only a few seconds. It is very important, not to touch the heli, until the pitch pulse has happened.

A bit Wind is no Problem, the sensor is not very sensitive on low speeds, so there will be not much influence. If you have heavy wind, it may be ideal, to initialize in a calm place. The wind near the ground normally is no problem.

so long ... Uli
http://www.vstabi.de

[Lorents]

I am not sure, but from what I have read the AR7000 will output the same stick positions you had when you did the binding during start up.

I dont have the same problem with mine - when I set it up I did this:

- Center all the DX7 trims
- Bind it to the AR7000
- Trim the heli with the Vbar software so that it flies straight without any trimming needed from the DX7.

[jmiceli11]

Are most people not using the Peto/Pedo tubes and relying just on the gyro sensors?

John