syn-
12-23-2006, 09:24 AM
Ok, so I'm pretty much done with the build process on my N9 and I thought I would post some of the tips and tricks I used to get past some of the more bothersome parts of the build. Most of this information came from previous posts on several different forums and from talking to a few synergy pilots. Alas, only a few are of my own creation. :)
Stuff you need:
- Arbor press (http://www.amazon.com/Arbor-Press-1-Ton/dp/B00077KLIW): You can do the job without it, but my god does it make it easier. I pretty much consider this a must have if I'm going to be building one again.
- Digital Calipers (http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=MTI500-196): These really help when you are changing the diameter of something by one tenth of a millimeter.
- Heat gun (http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-9756-Dual-Temperature/dp/B0000302U8/sr=1-11/qid=1166882691/ref=sr_1_11/002-8701120-5769605?ie=UTF8&s=hi): Used for heating things up to "persuade" it to fit. :)
- Dial Indicator (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9849-Magnetic-Indicator-Combo/dp/B0000DD0VA/sr=1-1/qid=1166882743/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-8701120-5769605?ie=UTF8&s=hi): Used for ensuring that shafts and parts and turning true
- Graupner Heavy duty ball link pliers (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/tools.htm): Standard ones just won't cut it.
Sections:
- A01 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A01.htm): The fuel tank vent that shipped with my kit comes straight out the top of the tank, which makes routing the the fuel tubing a little sloppy looking since it has to arc up towards the bevel gear and then back down to get over to the muffler. A really nice alternative to this is the 90 degree tank vent from Tettra that has a flange on the bottom to allow as much fuel as possible to be put in the tank and also allows for the nut to be screwed on from the outside of the tank. Part number TET4216. Link to them at Central Hobbies: clicky! (http://www.centralhobbies.com/Fuel/fuel_fittings/tet4216.html)
- A02 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A02.htm): Ahh the dreaded engine/clutch assembly. By far my least favorite subject! :) There are tons of good posts on here and "elsewhere" describing the methods for properly dialing in the fan hub, fan, clutch, and start shaft, so I won't go into all that. I will however STRONGLY recommend buying one of the following two products:
- A replacement upper collet that makes getting the fan hub to dial in a breeze. Part number S3176 available from Rick's at this link: clicky! (http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=S3176)
- A replacement fan hub from hyperformancerc.com. I haven't used it myself, but from everything I've heard it works FAR better than the stock hub and is many times easier to dial in. From what I've heard, you tighten it down the first time and go. The price is a bit steep at $65, but when compared to the time it can save you it is worth it. Part number HYP1010. Link here: clicky! (http://store02.prostores.com/servlet/hyperformancerc/Detail?no=1)
One other thing, make sure to go ahead and test fit your muffler on the engine once you have the fan shroud installed. You will most likely need to trim the shroud in order to allow it to freely move around on the engine.
- A12 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A12.htm): When mounting the right aileron and elevator servos using JR 8311's I noticed a slight rub between the ball links. The aileron servo is lifted up slightly by the spacers included with the kit to correct this, but it may not be enough. If it is not, find some spare servo hold down plates (107-065) and place one under the spacers provided with the kit to raise the servo up just a little more. After doing this you will need to also put spacers under the cyclic servo pivot support (110-217) to prevent it form flexing when tightened down on the servo mount. I used (3) 3mm flat washers to do the job.
- A17 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A17.htm): Cut off the washout arms at the outer hole on the side with two holes next to each other. This is to prevent the arms from striking the anti-rotation mount during extreme cyclic inputs.
- A18 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A18.htm): The 6mm bolts (100-406) that hold the seesaw (120-118) onto the head block (120-110) are supposed to have a 4mm shim (106-401) installed between the bolt and the block. These shims were left out on my kit and therefore caused the seesaw to be unable to move freely in the head block once the bolts were tightened down. If you have this problem you may want to check that the shims are there.
- A23 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A23.htm): The thrust bearings in the tail grips are supposed to be installed so that the side with the loose fit on the shaft is installed into the grip first. This piece is NOT supposed to move with the shaft as it turns. Then the cage/ball combo goes in next. After that is the part that fits snugly on the tail shaft. The purpose of this last piece is to hold onto the shaft and spin WITH it. In order to do this, the outer diameter of the part must be smaller than the inner diameter of the blade grip. The issue with some of the Synergy kits (at least from what I experienced and heard from other pilots) is that this is not the case. The outer part of the thrust bearing fits too tightly in the blade grip and could not spin, which obviously makes the movement of the grip extremely tight once the bolt is tightened down. To correct this, use a fine grit sanding wheel on a dremel to grind off about .1mm from the outside of the part in question. Afterwards, run over the part with a fine (1000) grit sandpaper to smooth it out. The part should now be able to spin in the blade grip with the shaft and provide smooth operation on the tail.
- A24 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A24.htm): One of the steps on this page is to construct the torque tube supports and install them on the tube. I constructed my supports first and then installed them on the shaft. In order to do this, I had to do a couple of things to get the supports to actually be able to move down the torque tube. Here goes:
- Use some fine sandpaper to lightly sand the end of the torque tube as if you were trying to taper it. You don't have to sand much at all, just a little to remove the "hard edge" that is there.
- Increase the inner diameter of the inner bearing ring (115-219) until it is large enough to allow the support to move on the tube... it should still be really tight so that the support doesn't slip. I increased the inner diameter of mine to 9.8mm using a fine grit sanding stone on a dremel followed by some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. The torque tube itself is 10.3mm, so this still gave a tight fit. From the factory I believe the bearing rings had a diameter of around 9.2mm and that simply wouldn't move down the shaft without excessive force.
- Put some kind of lubricant on the tube.... wd-40, tri-flow, 3-in-1, detergent, something.
- Use a heat gun to heat up the supports before placing them on the shaft and moving them down it to their proper location. This expands the plastic on the inner bearing ring (115-219) and really makes the fit a lot easier to work with, but once it cools it snugs back down on the tube.
- I used an arbor press to get the supports started on the torque tube to keep from damaging the inner bearing rings from accidentally applying side pressure.
Now that the supports are on, you can install the front and rear couplers. There have been reports of these couplers stripping out under heavy loads, so there are several suggestions floating around the forums on how to deal with the problem. I setup mine by:
- Applying green loctite to the splines of both couplers before installing them. This type of loctite is designed to hold bearing, retaining sleeves, etc in place, so it seemed well suited for the job.
- Installing a roll pin through the torque tube collar and coupler. Real Raptors has a quick how-to on doing this mod... it is quick and easy, but ensures that the couplers won't come out. Check it out here: clicky! (http://www.real-kbase.co.uk/TT_mod.html) As for supplies needed, you will just need a 2mmx12mm roll pin, which can be found at Rick's here: clicky! (http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=2509015)
Once the entire tube is ready, slide it into the boom using rubbing alcohol as a lubricant.
- A25 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A25.htm): Replace the M3x20 socket head bolt (100-320) with a 22mm bolt so that it will properly/fully engage the lock nut on the other side.
- A27 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A27.htm): Setting the mesh on the tail drive system is critical and explaining it is extensive. Just read this over at heligator: clicky! (http://heligator.com/synergy/A27.htm)
Misc
- Ball link sizing: For the most part the black steel balls that come with the kit will fit fairly well in the ball links. Even if they are tight at first, they generally free up within the first few flights (per chuckie). The chrome plated ball on the other hand, do not. Those balls are slightly larger than the steel ones and fit in the ball links pretty tight... too tight for comfort by my standards. To fix this issue, material must be removed from inside the ball links to give them more room to move. For this, I take a spare chrome ball and score it all the way around by gripping it tightly with a pair of standard pliers (this roughens the ball). I then put the ball in a dewalt drill (overkill?) and attach the ball link that needs to be sized to the ball. Then, while holding the link, I spin the drill over a few times until the link loosens up a little. The link can then be removed from the ball and tested on the ball it is being installed on.
I really hope this info helps someone else building this bird for the first time. Please remember though, this is also my first time building this thing, so take the advice with a grain of salt. :)
-syn
Stuff you need:
- Arbor press (http://www.amazon.com/Arbor-Press-1-Ton/dp/B00077KLIW): You can do the job without it, but my god does it make it easier. I pretty much consider this a must have if I'm going to be building one again.
- Digital Calipers (http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=MTI500-196): These really help when you are changing the diameter of something by one tenth of a millimeter.
- Heat gun (http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-9756-Dual-Temperature/dp/B0000302U8/sr=1-11/qid=1166882691/ref=sr_1_11/002-8701120-5769605?ie=UTF8&s=hi): Used for heating things up to "persuade" it to fit. :)
- Dial Indicator (http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G9849-Magnetic-Indicator-Combo/dp/B0000DD0VA/sr=1-1/qid=1166882743/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1/002-8701120-5769605?ie=UTF8&s=hi): Used for ensuring that shafts and parts and turning true
- Graupner Heavy duty ball link pliers (http://www.hobby-lobby.com/tools.htm): Standard ones just won't cut it.
Sections:
- A01 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A01.htm): The fuel tank vent that shipped with my kit comes straight out the top of the tank, which makes routing the the fuel tubing a little sloppy looking since it has to arc up towards the bevel gear and then back down to get over to the muffler. A really nice alternative to this is the 90 degree tank vent from Tettra that has a flange on the bottom to allow as much fuel as possible to be put in the tank and also allows for the nut to be screwed on from the outside of the tank. Part number TET4216. Link to them at Central Hobbies: clicky! (http://www.centralhobbies.com/Fuel/fuel_fittings/tet4216.html)
- A02 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A02.htm): Ahh the dreaded engine/clutch assembly. By far my least favorite subject! :) There are tons of good posts on here and "elsewhere" describing the methods for properly dialing in the fan hub, fan, clutch, and start shaft, so I won't go into all that. I will however STRONGLY recommend buying one of the following two products:
- A replacement upper collet that makes getting the fan hub to dial in a breeze. Part number S3176 available from Rick's at this link: clicky! (http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=S3176)
- A replacement fan hub from hyperformancerc.com. I haven't used it myself, but from everything I've heard it works FAR better than the stock hub and is many times easier to dial in. From what I've heard, you tighten it down the first time and go. The price is a bit steep at $65, but when compared to the time it can save you it is worth it. Part number HYP1010. Link here: clicky! (http://store02.prostores.com/servlet/hyperformancerc/Detail?no=1)
One other thing, make sure to go ahead and test fit your muffler on the engine once you have the fan shroud installed. You will most likely need to trim the shroud in order to allow it to freely move around on the engine.
- A12 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A12.htm): When mounting the right aileron and elevator servos using JR 8311's I noticed a slight rub between the ball links. The aileron servo is lifted up slightly by the spacers included with the kit to correct this, but it may not be enough. If it is not, find some spare servo hold down plates (107-065) and place one under the spacers provided with the kit to raise the servo up just a little more. After doing this you will need to also put spacers under the cyclic servo pivot support (110-217) to prevent it form flexing when tightened down on the servo mount. I used (3) 3mm flat washers to do the job.
- A17 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A17.htm): Cut off the washout arms at the outer hole on the side with two holes next to each other. This is to prevent the arms from striking the anti-rotation mount during extreme cyclic inputs.
- A18 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A18.htm): The 6mm bolts (100-406) that hold the seesaw (120-118) onto the head block (120-110) are supposed to have a 4mm shim (106-401) installed between the bolt and the block. These shims were left out on my kit and therefore caused the seesaw to be unable to move freely in the head block once the bolts were tightened down. If you have this problem you may want to check that the shims are there.
- A23 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A23.htm): The thrust bearings in the tail grips are supposed to be installed so that the side with the loose fit on the shaft is installed into the grip first. This piece is NOT supposed to move with the shaft as it turns. Then the cage/ball combo goes in next. After that is the part that fits snugly on the tail shaft. The purpose of this last piece is to hold onto the shaft and spin WITH it. In order to do this, the outer diameter of the part must be smaller than the inner diameter of the blade grip. The issue with some of the Synergy kits (at least from what I experienced and heard from other pilots) is that this is not the case. The outer part of the thrust bearing fits too tightly in the blade grip and could not spin, which obviously makes the movement of the grip extremely tight once the bolt is tightened down. To correct this, use a fine grit sanding wheel on a dremel to grind off about .1mm from the outside of the part in question. Afterwards, run over the part with a fine (1000) grit sandpaper to smooth it out. The part should now be able to spin in the blade grip with the shaft and provide smooth operation on the tail.
- A24 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A24.htm): One of the steps on this page is to construct the torque tube supports and install them on the tube. I constructed my supports first and then installed them on the shaft. In order to do this, I had to do a couple of things to get the supports to actually be able to move down the torque tube. Here goes:
- Use some fine sandpaper to lightly sand the end of the torque tube as if you were trying to taper it. You don't have to sand much at all, just a little to remove the "hard edge" that is there.
- Increase the inner diameter of the inner bearing ring (115-219) until it is large enough to allow the support to move on the tube... it should still be really tight so that the support doesn't slip. I increased the inner diameter of mine to 9.8mm using a fine grit sanding stone on a dremel followed by some 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. The torque tube itself is 10.3mm, so this still gave a tight fit. From the factory I believe the bearing rings had a diameter of around 9.2mm and that simply wouldn't move down the shaft without excessive force.
- Put some kind of lubricant on the tube.... wd-40, tri-flow, 3-in-1, detergent, something.
- Use a heat gun to heat up the supports before placing them on the shaft and moving them down it to their proper location. This expands the plastic on the inner bearing ring (115-219) and really makes the fit a lot easier to work with, but once it cools it snugs back down on the tube.
- I used an arbor press to get the supports started on the torque tube to keep from damaging the inner bearing rings from accidentally applying side pressure.
Now that the supports are on, you can install the front and rear couplers. There have been reports of these couplers stripping out under heavy loads, so there are several suggestions floating around the forums on how to deal with the problem. I setup mine by:
- Applying green loctite to the splines of both couplers before installing them. This type of loctite is designed to hold bearing, retaining sleeves, etc in place, so it seemed well suited for the job.
- Installing a roll pin through the torque tube collar and coupler. Real Raptors has a quick how-to on doing this mod... it is quick and easy, but ensures that the couplers won't come out. Check it out here: clicky! (http://www.real-kbase.co.uk/TT_mod.html) As for supplies needed, you will just need a 2mmx12mm roll pin, which can be found at Rick's here: clicky! (http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=heli&Product_Code=2509015)
Once the entire tube is ready, slide it into the boom using rubbing alcohol as a lubricant.
- A25 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A25.htm): Replace the M3x20 socket head bolt (100-320) with a 22mm bolt so that it will properly/fully engage the lock nut on the other side.
- A27 (http://heligator.com/synergy/A27.htm): Setting the mesh on the tail drive system is critical and explaining it is extensive. Just read this over at heligator: clicky! (http://heligator.com/synergy/A27.htm)
Misc
- Ball link sizing: For the most part the black steel balls that come with the kit will fit fairly well in the ball links. Even if they are tight at first, they generally free up within the first few flights (per chuckie). The chrome plated ball on the other hand, do not. Those balls are slightly larger than the steel ones and fit in the ball links pretty tight... too tight for comfort by my standards. To fix this issue, material must be removed from inside the ball links to give them more room to move. For this, I take a spare chrome ball and score it all the way around by gripping it tightly with a pair of standard pliers (this roughens the ball). I then put the ball in a dewalt drill (overkill?) and attach the ball link that needs to be sized to the ball. Then, while holding the link, I spin the drill over a few times until the link loosens up a little. The link can then be removed from the ball and tested on the ball it is being installed on.
I really hope this info helps someone else building this bird for the first time. Please remember though, this is also my first time building this thing, so take the advice with a grain of salt. :)
-syn