nitro for weekends

[xircom]

I am about to install the new washout set, now looking to the manual, it can be turned +- about 45deg but does not seem to say in what position the upper radius block must be tigthened to the main mast ? I assume, that the lever arms must be orthogonal (90deg) to the flybar ? This ensures, that the links to the flybar cage are straight line vertical from the levers ...

Thanks !!

[Jafa]

Align the fly bar with the tail boom
Align the inner balls on the swash with the outter balls
put collective to full +
Lift radius block by another 1mm and nip it up
Now hold the fly bar paddle - hold flybar level
Move the elevator stick forward/backward (carefull - no aileron input!)
If the paddle trys to turn then the balls are not aligned - reset & retry
When done tighen second grub screw in radius block with locktite
recheck paddles
locktite and tighten 1st grub screw in radius block

:wink:

[xircom]

interesting procedure ! sorry, reading this : which balls are not aligned if the paddle turns ? Or you mean the radius block ? I mean where do I get the radius block aligned ?

[Jafa]

The swash inner balls that rotate should align with the swash outter balls that don't rotate

The radius block turns the swash inner balls

Once you get it done you will understand ... it's hard to explain but easy to do

[xircom]

understood - and done ! Very good way .... thanks !!!

[Jafa]

:lolol

Hope you have more flying success

[xircom]

works very well now !!! Every time better ... around one turn now and below motor gets 55deg and cylinder somewhere 90, hope this is fine, bought thermometer too. :smokin:

One thing, sometimes motor dies still from the idle spool up, like a hick-up .... first idle, then throttle slowly up, then small "guuuurg" and then either fine or died, is that the low speed needle ? :roll:

[Jafa]

55 and 90 are pretty much the max - don't go hotter
The spool up issue is typical for OS50 with 60L carb
It's actually a 1/4 range transition issue,
the low speed needle can help
but I never found balance for idle, tic toc and spool up,
so I live with that spool up issue

[xircom]

Oh I see, well I have now pretty much 360deg (one turn), guess will go 2-3 clicks back and then it should do. The spool up issue is not the world biggest pain, happens only at the beginning and if I push stick slowly, then it is fine.

I am still bit worried about the stator screws for the revmax sensor, would you locktite them it does into motor mount and I don't know if this material likes locktite or not, also I don't know what happens if locktite gets hot ?

Also I realized, that the tail pushrod pretty much makes sound, because the holder(s) do not hold the rod so tight, this does not give a performance problem, but it's annoying - hirobo sells a fat carbon rod to be used with the bigger holes of the holders, did you try that one ?

Finally using the revmax, I still programmed a throttle curve. Now I also have programmed +20% for both elev and aile mix, I guess it does not hurt ? Same with rudd to throttle, although heading hold I guess, JR manual states +15% for R and -10% for L mix.

thanks thanks thanks

[Jafa]

Yes, spool up is not such big problem

Heat make loctite let go - so no point anywhere around the engine
I just used longer bolts and nyloc nuts (they don't like heat either actually)
I never had one come loose however

The wind going over the tail wire push rod can make it rattle - sure
I did use the fat carbon one, it wore right through where it rubs on a guide
I found this just before flying, the rod fell apart in my hands
So I went back to wire

No point to use throttle mix (aileron/elevator/rudder) with RevMax
Just raise your throttle curve to above the target RPM so RevMax is always limiting
This is what RevMax is designed to do - limit RPM, hold RPM down, push throttle down
I fly with 100% throttle curve, RevMax only looks at RPM setting on Gov channel
(TJ Pro used your throttle curve to predict requirements - not RevMax)

The other problem with throttle mixing is that you can over drive the throttle servo
(past the limit - binding) and burn it out

Have good time!

[xircom]

Well the pushrod makes quite some noise, mainly because of the even small vibration coming from the tail, when I hold the rod with two fingers, noise is gone. So I thought maybe the fat carbon rod would do better ... what you're saying, is that it rubs the plastic holders through very quickly ? That's would not be good ... maybe other tailrods would help !

Oh I have seen many people suggesting the RevMax handling 100% on the throttle well, but honestly the reason why I have still a "V", is - when anything happens and revmax is somewhat not reading, then with 100% the heli would not be able to handle 100% with no load, much faster than I could react on FlightMode stick change, isn't it ? Scary ...

[Jafa]

I know what you mean about tail noise
You could use teflon heat shrink around the push rod where it goes through the guide

I would just switch back to normal mode,
it would rev for just a second or two, not a huge problem
I have not heard of one single person having a RevMax let go and rev hard

With any govenor you give control from mechanical to silicon
Anything could happen

[xircom]

Good idea, never heard about teflon heatshrink - probably need to consult the jp/en dictionary before I go to the shop. Anyway still thinking if I should use the fat carbon rod, because actually I already bought it last week being the shop anyway..?

BTW, I always wondered what do do after last flight of the day (i.e. before period of not flying) with the engine, so far I idled the last drop of the tank through, because it's nice to have it empty and also I assume it's not good to have a rest of unburned fuel in the engine, what is your recommendation ?

And finally talking about this Revmax throttle servo, some people say it shall be at least as fast as the cyclics, otherwise too much drag on the blades not supported by engine could slow it down in that impotant moment, no matter how fast the revmax is. Others say for sure RevMax does not need at all a nice servo, anything will do ... I am bit confused.

Thanks as usual !

[Jafa]

The carbon rod is stronger and stiffer - if you have it use it
Just be sure to inspect it every month - it will wear through
Also note that the guide have three slots
one is round - that the middle one
one is vertical - that's the front one
one is horizontal - that's the rear one
You will see why when you install it and play with the movement

I pinch the fuel line to cut the engine,
I then empty the tank
I then put the glow battery back on and start engine again - to burn off more
If you are not going to use it for a long time (months)
would pay to open rear cover plate and clean it out (solvent cleaner)
and then put ATF oil on the rear bearing

The engine cannot respond very fast,
like in your car, you can apply full throttle in neutral
and you have a second or even two to come off the throttle
with no damage and no really crazy revs - engine response too slow

Because we hover at 50% throttle
we never use more than half the throw of the servo (half to full)
so the max delay we get is actually half the servo rating
so 0.2 second servo actually gives us 0.1 second half to full
That's plenty fast

I have a 9001 on all my heli throttles,
the only time I notice it's slow
is sitting on the ground at full throttle (not started)
and hit hold - you heard the servo shut the throttle, takes a little time
but this does not give me any problems doing auto when flying

With the TJ's it's easy to get hunting with a fast servo and a little lean

Cheers!

[xircom]

EXCELLENT ANSWERS, thank you so much

[Jafa]

No problem at all :mrgreen: