What do I do to make my Hawk Sport crazy responsive!

[mx400]

My setup is pretty much stock guys. Here is what I have for gear, s3151 digital servos, 1800mah 3cell lipo rx pack, 5.1v regulator, ZigSaw carbon blades 550mm, ms composite tail blades, stock paddles and stock dampers. Since I sold my old gyro I got a Logictech 6100 gyro on the way! Thanks guys I want this thing realy light on its feet and quick on the controls!

[COOKIEULT70]

Remove the flybar weights and put the hard red dampeners in. Very big difference.

[mx400]

Which dampeners ? From where? Thanks

[mx400]

I see the red hard dampeners that century has on thier website are they ok? Also what about the century 3d paddles? Thanks

[COOKIEULT70]

Yes the Century red dampeners are the ones. I haven't tried the 3D paddles for the 3mm flybar. They should work good though. I think you would be suprised how much difference just removing the fly bar weights would make though.

[mx400]

The flybar weights are coming off tonight!

[RAV50]

And make sure that you have a throttle/pitch curve that gives you at least an 1800 rotor speed and to use about 70% to 100% aileron to throttle and elevator to throttle mixing to insure that the head speed stays consistant through-out the maneuvers.

Nitro helis, unlike electric do not have built in governors....unless you add one seperately.

[mx400]

How well does the TJ pro work? Thanks

[Coolice]

Hey,

Another good tip to try is changing the short balls on the swashplates inner ring to match the other two connected to the flybar, in this case from short to medium length balls.
This will dramatically increase the control throw delivered from the swashplate to the head/blade grips during cyclic controls.

In this link : http://www.centuryuk.com/Products/Helicopters+Spares/30-50+Spares?pos=108 you can see the difference in control ball length on the inner ring.

I am using this trick on my Swift to increase the control inputs to the head. Just watch out for binding in the controls.

Be wary when lightening the flybar as you can then make the model pitchy in fast forward flight, eg. the nose will want to keep flicking up when moving about the sky. Many swear by the green TT paddles as they are both light and yet retain a good amount of stability in forward flight.
The carbon paddles Century sell will also liven things up a lot, perhaps to the extent of needing flybar weights to fine tune the control and handling response.

Another area to look at is blade choice, the Zigsaw blades you are flying now, while a very good blade I dont think are all that stiff and hence will slow your cyclic response down as well. A nice stiff set of main blades, V Blades I have heard are the stiffest will also sharpen up the cyclic.

A good govenor will help make things simple to setup, but a nicely matched pitch and throttle curve will do just as well it just takes longer to sort out.
If you do decide to fit a govenor the CSM RevLock from experience works well and is easy to setup, plus a decent price.
.

[mx400]

Thanks for the tips guys! I am taking pics as we speak! Coolice have you ever had zigsaw carbons? They seem extrememly stiff to me but I havnt had any other carbon blades before so I cant compare. They are crazy expensive at like $115.00 a pair.

[mx400]

Here they are not that good of quality I know but you all get the idea.

[mx400]

Who carries the CSM revlock in the US its tough to find it? Thanks

[COOKIEULT70]

Try Advantage Hobby.com Thats where I just ordered mine from. Join their little frequent buyer program and save 5% off of your first order.

[mx400]

Will DO.

[Coolice]

Hey,

I haven't tried the latest breed of Zigsaw blades, but many years ago when I flew TSK machines I ran Zigsaw GP9-II's and they were great. Auto'd well and gave good forward flight speed, I did try a set of GXII's also if I remeber correctly which were loaned to me by the then UK importer of TSK. Needless to say at £180 GBP's per set I was careful :?

I have two sets of 55cm Hi-Products I am dying to try on my Swift at some stage, semi symetrical but on the Five Star they to 3D'd well.

Looking at the pictures of your model the blades look to be the same type as the one's Yamaguchi uses on his Bravo/Raptor 90. Now many will know this top Japanese flier does not use rubber dampers in his head, prefering to use solid ali ones and then running a blade which is torsionally stiff but flexible along it's length. His plastic blade grips to are stiffened using ali plates.
Although with all this rigidity there needs to be some give somewhere and he does this with the blade, he then add's stiffness to them I feel by running 2200+ on the head.
Of course I am only going from what I have read/heard, but I am pretty confident this account is 100% accurate.

If you can, blade choice will also make a huge difference to the way your machine flies. V Blades are renouned to be the stiffest around, I was told by my buddy Adam Tuner that this is true who is into hard core 3D.
On my Swift I am using NHP Razor 53cm's which are great, nicely priced and stiff to which inturn gives a crisp cyclic response.

Once you have a model setup to run a constant head speed, I'd suggest some experimenting with different blades to see which ones suit you best.
.

[COOKIEULT70]

I flew my hawk yesterday with the flybar weights removed and the 20 gram paddles on the 4mm flybar. MUCH faster response than my previous setup. 30 gram paddles with the flybar paddles moved all the way out to the paddles. The faster cyclic response allowed me to pull out of two "almost crashes" yesterday.

I should have my 570mm rotortech aeroflats and the CSM RL20 on Tuesday. Can't wait to see how much better it works. Only two upgrades left that I want to do to my hawk. The thrust bearing and the tripple BB tail.

[mx400]

My flybar weights were moved all the way in but I took them off and we will how well it does. I am suppose to have my new gyro (Logictech 6100) and my new BEC (Medusa) Tuesday. Thanks

[mx400]

Got my new gyro!!!!!!