View Full Version : Razor main drive gear issue?
dlemieux
12-30-2006, 04:48 PM
The clearance between the white drive gear and the CF frames is practically touching on my razor. When I pull up on the gear it almost centers in the frame gap but just falls back down. It looks like I could fit 2 or 3 more shim/washers on the main shaft in the marked spot in the photo below.
Did I do something wrong in the build or is this normal? And what can I do to fix this issue? I read that part in the manual several times and am sure I did it right, but I still get the gap and closness to the frames. Any ideas?
Other than this and two missing shims from the belt tensioner bag, everthing went flawless.
Thanks in advance,
Dave
dlemieux
12-30-2006, 04:52 PM
would flipping the auto rotation hub in the center of the white gear over fix the problem??
Dave :?:
Laddy
12-30-2006, 08:57 PM
It needs more shims between the plastic spacer and the other shim.
025"-.030" worth of shims will do the trick. They now know about it and should have what you need when they open 1/02/07.
If you have that much in shims you should be fine.
Clintstone
12-30-2006, 11:23 PM
you can also take out the black spacer and put in a mainshaft collar but you need to be able to move the maingear up and down around a 1/16 of an inch. MA will address the problem when returnin g to the shop on the second.
Laddy
12-30-2006, 11:31 PM
Clint mine has .018" up and down now. That is close to 1/64
That should be OK? 1/16 is .062". That sure is a lot. We would have to grind some of the carbon away to clear the gear.
Laddy
dlemieux
12-31-2006, 12:45 AM
Thanks for the info. I will get more shims when they come back. And I guess a correctly sized spacer when they are available.
I think MA makes one heck of a heli and plan on a Ion next! :D
Thanks again!!
Dave
Laddy
12-31-2006, 01:29 AM
This IS one nice machined carbon heli, that is for sure. After building it you really appreciate all the machine work that goes into it.
I am a bit anal and debur all the carbon parts to take the sharp edges off. This did take some time with all the lightening holes and corners they have.
misskimo
12-31-2006, 05:00 AM
I love all my e MA helis , YEH!! :smokin:
WillJames
12-31-2006, 07:24 AM
A little up and down play in an auto hub is normal on any heli. As long as it can't hit the frames, it is no problem
On another note, I got to fly Clint's Rasor 2 flights yesterday (LOVED IT!!) and we got some flights logged using the FDR. Look for graphs later today.
Clintstone
12-31-2006, 08:24 AM
The collar will allow you to set the up and down play where you want it. You need to make sure it has some or it could jam the auto hub. The idea of the collar is so we can set it where we want it. I think they are working on the instructions now.
dlemieux
12-31-2006, 12:13 PM
Mine does hit the gear on the bottom side of the gap in the frames. So I believe I have too much play to leave it be. The collar sounds like it will work, but if it ever comes loose, could'nt it cause a problem? It seems like the correct size black spacer would be the best bet. There are already so many things that can go wrong, one less would be better. jsut my opinion of course.
Dave
DavidH
12-31-2006, 12:21 PM
The collar sounds like it will work, but if it ever comes loose, could'nt it cause a problem?
I have not personally built a Razor. But it is setup like the rest of the MA helis in regard to holding the main shaft. If the collars comes loose it is going to cause a problem where the spacer is there or not.
On the Fury series the spacers are no longer provided and only the collars are used to set the mesh between the crown gear and tail pinion. I know the Razor has a belt drive tail. But same principal still applies to the Razor.
The advice Clint has given above is the way I would set up the model.
David
dlemieux
12-31-2006, 12:57 PM
Sorry, let me clarify...
There is a spacer below the main gear and a collar above it as it comes from MA. I believe clint is saying to remove the spacer and add a second collar below the main gear. Which i'm sure is very sound advice, I'm not questioning that. And I agree that if the (TOP) collar comes loose it will cause a problem. I personally would just rather worry about ONE collar coming loose than TWO. Common sense says that a spacer can never come loose. unless there is some other benefit to useing a second collar, I would rather put the correct size spacer in mine.
Just my two cents.
Dave
Laddy
12-31-2006, 01:36 PM
Dave while i agree with you, the 2nd collar would work also.
Remember that the lower belt pulley has the set screws so that dictates the that the shaft can not move down at all. The top collar keeps it from moving up. The 2nd collar should just be there to set the up and down play. But, i would prefer the standard setup.
Clintstone
12-31-2006, 07:14 PM
The collar may become the new standard as the plastic parts may change slightly from one order to the next, the collar will not have a load on it and in my opinion , it would be better to set the play instead of looking for shims to make it work and if I change it down the road I have to hunt shims again. The collar takes out alot of variables without being too complicated. This is a simple solution wich I believe MA will more than likely impliment across into the Razor.
Aussieheliguy
01-04-2007, 04:56 AM
Dave, just got my kit today #10270026 and apart from the 2 little flanged bearings in the tail for the belt missing, I have the same problem with my kit, main gear rubs big time with cf frames. the only answer I can see is possibly machining off some of the material on the hub were the main sits, so the main gear can sit higher. you can't flip the hub cause it wont work then. Has MA come up with any answers yet?
carey shurley
01-04-2007, 05:35 AM
yes, take a look at steps 6A in the latest version of the assembly manual. The two shims that go into the vertical stack of the drive train have new part #'s and dimensions such that the bottom one is bigger and the top is is smaller. This will be effective in the next kits shipped and I know they are working on getting the two shims into existing owners hands. In the interim, I believe you can add additional 0619 shims underneath the autohub to raise it slightly. The exact position of the main gear isn't critical as long as it clears the frames.
Laddy
01-04-2007, 10:24 AM
Make sure the hub/gear has some up and down play so that it can rotate free and is not in a bind.
dlemieux
01-04-2007, 02:02 PM
Yes, Tim at MA was very helpful. He sent me two new shims and as stated above, there is a thick one for below the black plastic spacer and a thin one for above it. Installing them fixed my problem fine. He also replaced the other two belt tensioner shims that were missing from my kit. Thanks Tim and MA for offering such a awesome heli!! He also said the first shipment of canopies was due in any day and another shipment was soon to follow. So, anyone who got their Razor already should see one soon. :D
Once again, thanks for all the great input.
Dave
t-rexn8
04-12-2007, 11:19 PM
Can anyone or everyone post the best picture possible of some of the spacer locations? Here is mine.
Mine moves up and down a little bit too. I just baught the kit in March.
Clint nice job on explaning why the play is necessary.
You need to make sure it has some or it could jam the auto hub.