How do I set up my blade cp pro for 3D flight?

[lildhorses1]

I just got this heli and its flying very nice..I would like to try somer vertical or 3D menuvers. Any info and preparing a this heli for this would be awsome..about the only thing i know so far is that it must be in idle up..hehe please help. :lol:

[kfc]

e-flight has an aerobatic enhancement kit, I think it comes with symmetrical blades a 370 motor, and heat sinks for main and tail motor. you will also want a li-po battery, and lipo charger. if you want to keep it on the cheep you might want to look at the e-sky charger and 11.1v 1000mah lipo battery, charger and battery will run you about $50. you can get them at http://www.helidirect.com you can also find the symmetrical blades, motor and heat sinks here
http://www.helidirect.com/index.php?cPath=38_66
and here
http://www.helidirect.com/index.php?cPath=30_65
all parts and upgrades you need can be found under the honey bee cp2. almost everything is exchangeable on both helies.

[Pinecone]

The Pro already has Bell Hiller mixing, lipo, symetrical blades.

Without doing major stuff, it is about as 3D ready as it is. Maybe add a heading hold gyro.

Long term look at tail mods for more power. I am in the process of converting mine to the GWS direct drive. See www.bladecprepair.com for info

[fllyer]

I think kfc was thinking of the Blade CP not the CP Pro.

The rest of this is assuming you are a beginner;

From what flying I have done with my CP Pro, I would go over everthing with a fine tooth comb and make sure everything from the servos up are setting close to perfect as you can ( if you haven't done that already).

Another thing to do is get a good quality sim to practice on. It will save you it's cost in both parts and effort.

The CP Pro is a touchy little bird for a beginner to learn on, so take your time (more than usual than with a larger heli), and you should be doing just fine.

[lildhorses1]

Yes, I am somewhat a beginner..i had a t-rex and flew it nice but was too scared to get into arbatic menuvers so i bought the pro so that if i crashed it, it wouldnt tare a huge hole in my pocket.. But ill have to admit i tried fliping today and it wouldnt get enough negative pitch to get itself up again..idle up was on is there somthin i need to fix to make the negetive pitch more stronger..and yes i have been on a flight simulater for months so i no what to do it just didnt work..thanks for ur feed back guys..realy appriciate it...more would be great!!! :D

[fllyer]

To expand on what I said about checking everything from the servos up.

make sure the srevo arms are close to level as possable (not saying much because they are S75s). Then make sure the swah is perfectly level and the main blades are at 0 degrees at mid stick, both at normal and idle up (make sure you have the main and tail motors unpluged for safety).

After that is finished, check the pitch and adjust the swash until you have +/- 10 deg pitch in the main rotor (I think that is the max you can get). Ater all that work you should be good to go.

But the main advise I can give you (and many others on this forum) is to never trust anything that is RTF or ARF. Double check everything from screws/bolts to pitch.

I hope this helps.

[kfc]

a crap, I wasnt paying close enough attention to the subject.
just a newbee trying to help out.

[Pinecone]

Funny thing is, my Trex crashes have been cheaper than my Blade crashes.

[chopperdudes]

check to see if you've got the same amount of pitch for both positive and negative. also, you might want to adjust so that the throttle curve in idle up is 100 all the way. yes, you could also get a hh gyro and a dd tail. it'll hold much better.

[jediwannabe]

I found doing a "roll" in forward flight was the easiest to start with. I can't get my Pro to do a "loop" it ends up being a lame flip when it looses momentum. You can move the flybar weights in or take them completly off. Definately check your pitch setups and +-9 or 10 should be good enough to get the bird to fly inverted.

[chopperdudes]

yep, rolls are easier than loop. loop/flips looses way more altitude. remove the flybar weights.

[carlo_the_wonder_frog]

The stock motor just doesn't make enough power to do good flips, it bogs quite a bit especially if you bang the sticks. The solution is carfeul collective management, go easy on that left stick when changing pitch and it should be able to do a flip/loop much easier. This takes some good timing and some practice to master.

A brushless main motor will help in this department alot as the HS doens't fall off so dramatically during rapid collective movements.

[chopperdudes]

not a flip, especially a back flip. i can roll like 9ft, but the flip just doesn't go right. looping is better than flipping, but make sure your coming out of a dive to achieve max ff speed before the loop, and it still ain't that round. yep, but if you go for brushless, you'll want the hh gyro and the dd tail, and after all these, you'll want something like a trex. because after all these mods, the rex will beat it hands down stock (or at least i've heard).

[lildhorses1]

Awsome thanks for all the information...How well does the pro hover upsidown..just curious..and allso what is the dd tail that u guys are talkin about?

[chopperdudes]

i can't hover inverted yet, can anyone shine some light on me? i've hange it when i'm inverted in a roll, but i'm so scared that i start up REALLY high, and when i'm that high, it's hard to determine direction until it gets out of and, and all i can do is basically two or three corrections (trying anyway, not in a hover) before i chicken out and roll over. plz, someone better than me, help me!!!

[jediwannabe]

The Pro will hover upside down. Its getting it there from a roll or flip that is tough.
Chopperdudes, do your half roll and work on balancing it just like upright...I know its tough. I always bailed out and rolled it back over too. You need to have inverted hovers down on the simulator (assuming you use one). Once I had the hovers down on the sim I would set the tail rudder trim off one way or the other (to be more like my BCCP's lack of tail hold).

just curious..and allso what is the dd tail that u guys are talkin about?

The DD or direct drive tail mod is where you replace the tail/gear combo that is on the Blade CP with a tail that is bolted directly to the tail motor. There are debates about DD VS. the dual tailmotor setup. I've read enough to believe the DD tail would be the better choice. Directions for how this done can be found at http://www.bladecprepair.com/man_tr_dd_conversion.html

[chopperdudes]

yep thanks, i think i'm getting better, i've made a rig myself for inverted hover for the blade, kinda like a training gear with sticks sticking over the blades. (since i don't have a sim and am not allowed to get one). and i can do it pretty good inside teh living room. and make a different model on my 7c and totally out trim it, and i can do it no problem. i'm starting to get the hang of it after rolling it over too. i can stay for a few seconds and then get scared and bail out. i did a few times mixed up elevator but no crash. think i can get it down soon, only if weather permits. i like sunny skies the best, as you can see it the best, but that's never teh case here in toronto...

so basically, what the blade can do right side up, it can do it upside down as well?
and i've heard something about overspeeding the rotors when going 0 pitch or so. i'm now running a 100% straight throttle curve in idle up. i really don't get what 'overspeeding the rotor' will do?

[jediwannabe]

I'm not sure what "overspeeding the rotor" will do. I run my stunt throttle curve on the Blade 100 strait.

With no sim, hmmm. I saw a thread where people spoke about hovering inverted using their ceiling. Just like with regular hovering they would back off the negative to come off the ceiling and give more negative to "ground" it back on the ceiling.
I have no idea how they got it up there or down without damaging anything. I'd hate to see you get hurt trying something crazy...

My trex has spoiled me and I havn't done anything tricky with my Blade in a while.
I'm not in the Blade forum to tell you to get a trex, i've seen videos of people "blade scraping" the stock type BCP. My inverted hovers were few and I did lose it a few times and cost me some parts.

Something to consider, sounds basic, but...
When I used to fly my BCPP over very tall wheat type grass, I could vertually cut the throttle from 20-25 feet with no damage. The grass "caught" the heli, it saved me alot of money. When I started flying at the heli-field (because of my TREX), everytime I dumped my BCPP I was suprized when something was broke! So I'd say if you have some tall weeds or grass that would be a safer place to build your confidence.
so basically, what the blade can do right side up, it can do it upside down as well?

If you have 0 pitch at midstick and +9/-9 or +10/-10 I don't see why it wouldn't

[chopperdudes]

no, i actually build a rig that's sorta like a training gear from bbq sticks. basically a training gear with sticks sticking over the rotor so it can take off from the ground inverted. and throttle cut when i get into trouble. i'm doing really well, at least with that home made rig anyways. i can't imagine starting from the ceiliing really... i'm going to get a trex sooner or later, the SE version. with hs 65mg's 401 w/9650... etc. i know i'll like the rex much better over the blade. i just want to get invert hover down and possibly inverted flight perhaps with the blade before getting the rex, as i assume that a crash on teh rex will cost more. (on the same crash), and that i'd be done for if i kill any metal parts in a crash on a rex. i always fly my blade in my local soccer field over grass, but short. i'd always have damage in crashes but never broke cf blades. yep, i have 0 pitch at midstick and around 11/-11, could go more, i believe about 13 both ways, but really bogs the motor and decreases performance.

[jediwannabe]

Cool,

I'd like to see pics of the "inverted training gear", and i'm sure i'm not the only one.
Obviously youve done your homework about the REX going with the SE, I bought an S kit...everything that made it an "S" is slowly being replaced anyway at a higher expence.
On crashes it seems my TREX has been cheaper.
Quick parts referance(approx)
Main gears (2) $7.99
Main Shafts (3) 7.99
spindles (4)7.99.....ect
But I do not suggest that anything you learn to do on the blade first is a waste of time. If you can do it with the BCP it will be a dream on the rex.

[chopperdudes]

I'd like to see pics of the "inverted training gear", and i'm sure i'm not the only one.
Obviously youve done your homework about the REX going with the SE, I bought an S kit...everything that made it an "S" is slowly being replaced anyway at a higher expence.
On crashes it seems my TREX has been cheaper.
Quick parts referance(approx)
Main gears (2) $7.99
Main Shafts (3) 7.99
spindles (4)7.99.....ect
But I do not suggest that anything you learn to do on the blade first is a waste of time. If you can do it with the BCP it will be a dream on the rex.


Ok, ok, I’ve made a vid on it actually. it doesn’t work perfectly, as you can’t make imputs on the ground basically before lift off, or the blades will hit the sticks. I have to use my old crapped up eflight cf blades because the good esky cf blades I’m using are actually longer. Since this rig was made when I was using the eflight cf blades, it won’t fit the esky ones I’m using right now. thus you see the ping pong balls vibrating. This rig would not work with the stock radio, as the stock tx will have positive pitch which will pull the heli down to the floor on spool up. I have to set up another model in my futaba 7c, with a 0 pitch curve all the way on normal mode and a pitch curve with only negative in idle up one. I also really out trim it with the radio, if it was very well trimmed like the one I fly (right side up) now, I’d be able to have it very stable. This rig will not teach you very much imo, because it doesn’t teach you how to bail out, very important, and you’ll have a different perspective of the heli on the rig as opposed to up high. So this really only teaches you to get the feel for the controls while inverted. I’ve used more than a dozen bbq sticks on this thing, and I think it actually make it less stable because most of the weight of the rig is on the skids… right now, it is not as strong as I’ve first made it, since a few of the bbq sticks came off due to hard landings and ‘rotor interferences’. But now, as I’m getting better with it, I don’t really need to hit throttle hold in at a foot high… so this rig right now basically let me take off inverted and land inverted… it also won't do so well outside as when a slight amount of wind blows on it, it will wobble. and of course, i initialize the gyro upright first.

only i can upload it here without having to go on youtube...

i see that each part may be cheaper than that on a bcp, but with the higher hs of the rex, you'll break more parts. that's what i'm concerning.

[chopperdudes]

darn, too big to go on here.

[chopperdudes]

this link should work.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I7xhCWYCOcA

i hovered the whole pack out except taht i didn't know i ran out of memory in my dad's digital camera.

[jediwannabe]

That's too cooool!!! if you can hover with the training gear. You'll be able to hover with out it no problem. A+ on that setup.