Blade Cp pro propeller recomendations

[DrtBikDave]

I recently got a Blade Cp Pro for Christmas and was wondering what the best learner blades are I tore up two pairs of the stock blades and am in need of some direction from people who have been doing this longer than I.

[MrR]

Can't say I've been doing it much longer on the cp pro but have been flying on the Clearview sim and the cx for about five months.

I tore up my wodden blades on the garage floor on my first flight. Actually just one blade real bad because I powered down immediatly when I saw I was gonna crash. Also found that I bent the spindle (able to fix) and the main shaft (also salvageable.)

My suggestion would be plastic blades.


They are a bit heavier than the wooden ones but much more durable. Of course other parts may give faster if the blades don't but they won't explode on impact at least! I've tamed it down a bit since my first crash and now doing much better taking it slow.

[F1Atom]

From my learning experience, I would stay with the woodies. The reason: the woodies take some the energy away during a crash (which is good). If you are going to crash, pray that you are going to destroy is just a set of blades and nothing else. I was thinking about going with plastic blades but after I heard of some experiences when using the plasti-blades I stayed with the woodies. Yes it can get pricey when you destroy a bunch of wood blades. But its better/cheaper than cutting your tail boom in half, shorting out the 4-1, destroying gears, etc...The only thing that won't break will be the plasti-blades (you can't do much with just a set of blades and a broken heli). I heard of other heli pilots totalling the enitre heli and the only thing that wasn't damaged was the plasti-blades. You could try carbon fiber blades which I heard are more durable but they can also break and they cost more to replace. I don't plan on going onto carbon blades until I am really really good at flying. CF blades for me be would be a graduation present from basic heli flying (non 3D).

As of now, I have had only 4 major crashes including one BIG crash. Yet the only thing I had to replace were a one set of woodies, 1 spindle and 1 main shaft. Everything else on the heil is original, haven't had to replace landing gear, tail boom, 4-1 or servos. If had been using plastic-blades at the time of the accidents I would of had to replace more than just the blades.

My advise would be to stay with the woodies and take it slow, one step at a time.

[Skiddz]

Stick with the woodies. Stronger blades will cause something else to break. No need to drop $18 on a pair of blades from E-Flite either. Woodies are available for $8/pair from HeliDirect or you can buy Trex450 blades from pretty much any decent hobby shop and cut 'em to length. Just remember to balance the blades before you put 'em on.

[DrtBikDave]

Thanks for the info I like the less expensive equivalent. I can buy a few sets for that price. I still need to use the simulator for awhile I guess.

[jut8]

Also, i have found that if you add an extra flybar weight (wheel collar) to the blade CP's, it REALLY mellows the bird out for beginners.

[DrtBikDave]

Where on the Flybar do you locate the extra weight? Also does anybody have a diagram on how the training wheels mount correctly. Mine didn't come with instructions and I am not sure I installed them correctly. If I do have them correctly installed I am going to have to Zip tie them on because I am forever having to look for the little black clips.

[F1Atom]

Its better to use the zip ties on the training gear (balls of life). Much better than using the clips. The clips transfer too much energy to the landing gear. With the zip ties, they pop off during a hard crash which saves your landing gear.

[jut8]

The extra weight goes as far out on the flybar as you can get it, take the paddles off, and add another weight, if i am not mistaken, one should already be on there, it looks like a silver cylinder with a hold in the middle for the flybar to got through, and there is a black set screw in it, i know they put one on stock for the CP, but i may not be there on the pro edition, as flybar weights make the bird MUCH more stable and easier to fly at first, but they are not good for 3D flight, but i dont think you have to worry about that for awhile

[DrtBikDave]

You guys rock, I appreciate all of the input.

[Pinecone]

I haven't had problems with the training gear clips, once I go them on right. :)

I found a picture somewhere that shows it. Not sure I can explain.

Let's see, you take the clip and it has two holes with a C channel in between and two C channels along one side. From the inside, slide the slot between the two edge changes over the gear leg with the two channels pointing down. Clip them to the skid and then rotate to snap the channel between the holes to the gear leg.

[Skiddz]

I always liked rubber bands for securing training gear to skids. Zipties would be my 2nd choice.

[Bthulin17]

I have had my cp pro for two days and I am able to hover pretty well but the blades I thaught were by far easiest to learn on are E flites symetrical carbon blades.

[jediwannabe]

Hope these pics help....and I second the use of cheap woodies from helidirect for the honeybee cp2! Heavier plasi-blades are going to wear on your motor and break or bend more head pieces. Chipped blades can be repaired if you strip 2 inches of the plastic coating off, use CA on the cracks, sand em, coat the ends with thin layer off 2 part apoxy and resand, and balance and track. If they are real busted up change em out.