Futaba 9252 servo arm

[whome064]

I am about to purchase servos for my new T-Rex 600. Settled on either Futaba 9252 or Hitec 6965.

From what I understand from other posts the Hitec 6965 require obtaining new arms from hitec (free?).

Do the arms included with Futaba 9252 work? Do they require modification?

[Mercuriell]

There are several arms included with the 9252 - the spoke shaped one works just fine - has the same spacing as the cranks on the 600 but may need the odd spoke trimming off if there's a potential for fouling other linkages.

[furyevo]

Actually, the geometry is slightly off like that. However, Readyheli makes some nice carbon plates for Futaba servos, check them out.

[Mercuriell]

Originally Posted by furyevo

Actually, the geometry is slightly off like that. However, Readyheli makes some nice carbon plates for Futaba servos, check them out.

Nice CF plates - can't actually see any difference in the geometry though

PS The outer holes on the 6 spoked arms are 28.5mm apart which makes them just a tad (1.5mm) less than the lever arm. I guess this slight convergence is what you refer to. I'm not sure this makes any difference as long as all three swash servos are the same.

[R-4-L]

in order to make the 15mm from center of servo arm, I had use the wheels and drill them to make the exact points at 15mm from center either side.

I like the carbon plate though!

[rjg]

I used the readyheli arms. It was quick and painless...

[simarRC]

even with the readyheli arms, you have to drill a hole... if i had to do it over again, i'd be using the big wheel.

[rjg]

With the readyheli arm, the only hole you have to drill is a third hole to secure the arm to the small wheel after you have the first 2 screws attached. Everything else is already drilled.

[Finless]

The Futaba horns are NOT the same spacing of the balls on the bell cranks trust me! Spacing on the bell cranks is 15mm (30mm total) and those horns are 13.5 thus the geometery is a little off. Probably work fine though but I prefer to get it right so best to use the big wheels and drill your own holes. Also drilling your own holes allows you to get perfect 90 so you dont have to use subtrim to 90 the servos.

Bob

[rjg]

The readyheli arms have the holes exactly 30mm apart, what is the reason I used them. In addition you don't have rubbing problems on the canopy as you may with other solutions..

[stevehonn]

Originally Posted by rjg

The readyheli arms have the holes exactly 30mm apart, what is the reason I used them. In addition you don't have rubbing problems on the canopy as you may with other solutions..

Fitting ReadyHeli arms didn't stop my canopy rubbing problems, I think this is often more down to the shape of that canopy than the arms used. I've fitted my servos as far in to the frames as I can with the balls mounted inside the arms and still get clearance from the bellcrank, they still rub. As you've said, the main reason for using them is that the spacing is spot on, anything else is luck IMHO.

[lakespinner2]

Here's a little stocking stuffer gadget for the person who has all things heli related. It's not really needed with the premarked futaba wheels but it does make it nearly impossible to goof up the hole spacing.

http://www.ronlund.com/Merchant2/mer...uct_Code=FUTSJ

.

[WillJames]

Cool jigs, and also as a side note, looks like Ron Lund's site is being updated, with some new features. Cool!!